|george hoggard||11/03/2012 17:13:10|
|3 forum posts|
Can anyone help me with the problem of dial matting? , a lost art at least I thought so until I saw a hand made bracket clock with superb matting! I was told it was done by a firm in the clock trade full stop.It looked as If It had been etched with acid and it was very crisp and regular I am going to try ferric chloride as used for etching circut boards .the other Idea is using a muliple punch but this causes the brass to sink . Any suggestions would be helpfull
All the best George
|Richard Parsons||11/03/2012 17:57:41|
645 forum posts
An old clock making friend used to do this. He used a set of wheels in a in a fork with a handle.
He made his by straight knurling a short length of silver steel using a fine knurl (actually I did it for him in the Myford). This cylinder was first drilled through the centre. He then cut thin slivers of the knurled steel which he faced up on his Boley and machined the edges so that had the same angle as the knurl. The disks were hardened and tempered. Four or five were fitted into a fork with a pin through the hole. The Handle was quite long and had a sort of curved end like the butt of a gun at the top end. To decide the diameter of the rollers I had to work out the distance apart of the lines of the knurl and their height I cut a full set of knurl cuts in the bar.
To use the thing, he secured what he was going to mat onto a thick-ish bit of ply wood which he secured to his heavy bench. He would then sit down put the wheels against the work piece and put the ‘stock to his shoulder, push down and rock to and fro guiding the rollers with his hands.
He brushed the work piece off now and again with a brass brush –from a shoe shop-.
Hope it helps
2314 forum posts
A good question! I have a clock dial to matt and I propose to use an engraving tool similar to:- this
I must say I have been putting it off for a while but I have tried it on a 2in square scrap piece of brass and it seems to give an acceptable finish. If you do proceed with the chemical method please post a picture or two. I would be a bit concerned that it might not be sufficiently "rough" and perhaps rather even. I don't think a little irregularity is out of place in a hand made clock.
The books I've read say that the punch method can distort the plate with all the consequent problems of flattening it again.
Any other advice gratefully received - don't want an expensive mistake!
|george hoggard||12/03/2012 20:10:13|
|3 forum posts|
thank you for the information, I had a go with the ferric chlord and added some citric acid with it as I'd found out it would vastly improve it! Sadly it was no good.for my dial. I think my next . attempt will be on the lines of the roller as mentioned by Richard Parsons. I had tried that way before with no success but I think my wheels were to wide and needed to much effort on my part. _ Till the next time George.
|Ian S C||13/03/2012 10:19:36|
7468 forum posts
How about a light sand blasting, Badger, the air brush makers also make a little sand blast unit. I would use a soft grit, and a stecil type mask, to protect anything you don't want frosted. Ian S C
1230 forum posts
A needle scaler
|25 forum posts|
Hello M r Hoggard.
If you will kindly contact me on firstname.lastname@example.org I will send you details of a system of dial matting described by Alan Timmins which I tried and found it gave an excellent result.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.