1472 forum posts
Oh, about a boring tool.
Drill and ream a hole along the length (about 40mm) of a piece of suitably sized square section stock to suit the shank diameter of your intended HSS milling cutter. Slit along its length, insert cutter and mount in the lathe toolholder with the slot to the side, this will ensure that the tool is clamped against rotation when tightened.
You've got at least two cutting edges with all angles properly ground and all you have to do is rotate to the correct orientation to allow the tip to cut properly and set its centre height. Arrange a small clearance angle in respect to the lathe spindle axis, so the tool doesn't start to cut elsewhere as it moves into the hole.
|Andrew Johnston||30/11/2011 23:12:27|
5824 forum posts
I bought a couple of indexable insert boring bars from RDG via Ebay a few years ago. They were made by Glanze (Indian origin). The boring bars are fine, but the supplied inserts were rubbish. So I replaced the inserts with some of a better make. It is perfectly possible to buy single inserts; for instance from Greenwood, ArcEuroTrade, J&L and Cutwel.
The boring bars I bought don't look like any of the current RDG offerings. I'd be wary of buying indexable tooling from some ME suppliers without knowing exactly what the insert code is; it may be an obscure one you can only buy from said supplier! Find out what it is first and see if it is in the J&L catalogue.
502 forum posts
Thanks all, as usual loads of good info.
**OK silly question alert**
Whats 'indexable' ?
|Chris Trice||01/12/2011 02:05:14|
1362 forum posts
I can echo what AJ says about the Glanze tooling. The holders are good but the inserts chip easily. I've been using Sandvik tips on my lathe tooling and they're good but I'm most impressed by the Sumitomo inserts I bought recently. I still use HSS tooling too but mostly when machining brass.
1935 forum posts
An 'indexable' tool is one with tips which have more than one cutting point which can be turned when one edge wears out. Lozenge shaped tips have two cutting points, triangular three and square four - I have never used circular roughing tips.. When each of those is chipped or blunt they are replaced. In industry or for production work it is cheaper to change a tip (or other cutting tool) than sharpen an HSS tool as well as being faster cutting. With hobby work that usually is not a problem.
Here is a reasonable description of single point cutting tools including indexable. Click on the diagrams to enlarge them. For an idea of costs involved see the Chronos Glanze advert on these pages. With tips at £4 to £5 each and the possible inconvenience of not having a replacement when worn/chipped I cannot personally justify such expense on what is a hobby. With HSS I can keep it sharp, make accurate cuts with a good finish on all the materials I am liable to encounter in my hobby. I would rather keep my limited income to buy materials. If I were involved in production it would be different.
Edited By Terryd on 01/12/2011 03:14:14
157 forum posts
|And, harking right back to post #1 "My ground HSS parting tool broke", with all due respect, and without wishing to give offense - if you are breaking HSS and switch to carbide you will soon be knee deep in broken tips.|
|Peter Tucker||01/12/2011 18:17:02|
|182 forum posts|
Grinding HSS (especially super cobalt) is a slow process even with a coarse grit wheel.
As you are new to the game you may not realise the grinder is a cutting tool and needs periodic dressing to balance, clean, and sharpen the stone. This is done with a dressing tool, I prefer a single diamond in a handle, others may differ.
If you know all this already, my apologies.
Good luck in your endeavours.
502 forum posts
|Yeah I'd ground it too thin I think and then went mad with new machine|
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