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Consort sawbench and planer

problem with plain bearing

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Clive Hartland04/05/2011 20:51:18
2820 forum posts
40 photos
I have a Consort Coronet sawbench and planer with some accessories. I have no idea how old it is but I have had it for 24 years and it has done sterling work as I make my own bee keeping hardware, Nucleus boxes and hives and roofs and stands and bases plus the odd repairs that are needed.
This last few days I have been making some garden seats and have to do lots of Mortice and Tenons for the slats of the seats.
This saw bench has a ball bearing at one end of the spindle and the other is a taper bearing made from bronze material.
The adjustment of the shaft is by using two lock rings that draw the Taper bearing in towards the taper on the shaft. This is lubricated via a cap and hole at the top of the bearing.
Now this is a long shot , has anyone ever heard of a conversion of the bearings to all ball bearing, eliminating the taper bearing as now I have to adjust quite often and I think it is getting a bit worn.
Some time ago I had a contact with a place:- Pyatt Woodworking in Wolverhampton who were able to supply various bits and pieces.
Lawrie Alush-Jaggs09/05/2011 13:35:24
118 forum posts
32 photos
Hi Clive
Interesting, I just bought what I think is a late sixties or ealy seventies model Woodfast (locally made) six inch planer with similar bearings and had also thought about replacing them with ball or roller bearings.
In my case the only load on them is at nintey deg. to the spindle. You will have a thrust problem with your I would think as well as the longditudinal pressure of cutting.
I'm interested to see how what you come up with.
Clive Hartland09/05/2011 14:41:59
2820 forum posts
40 photos
Hello Lawrie,
Just got in and there is an email reply from Pyatt Woodworking saying they know of no modification for the ball bearing conversion from the plain bearing but would be interested if I came up with a mod.
Yes, I bet they would too!
OK, the configuration at the moment is a shaft with a ball bearing (Imperial size) at the no load end and a plain tapered bronze bearing at the load end.
This bronze bearing is now worn and from tightening against the taper to take out end float, it is starting to protude through the bearing slightly and is slightly oval on its inside dia.
What I want to do is to try and use the original diameter of the hole in the base casting and fit two side by side ball bearings, there is a but! It is 1.375 dia. and I cannot find any imperial bearings of this diameter.
If I could it would be easy and simple to do.
An alternative is to make a sleeve to fit inside the 1.375 hole that would carry two 20x32x7 metric bearings but I would need to make the sleeve as part of the end float control.
I have drawn it all out and I have a solution that will work OK.
I would need to turn the shaft down to 20mm to take the bearings and then machine the sleeve to fit the hole in the base casting, this would have a flange on the outside and I would use a couple of large headed screws to retain it in place.
The two bearings would need a keeper ring inside the sleeve, thats easy.
The shaft can only be assembled from the load bearing end so any other method of fitting the bearings is out.
Hope tha makes sense to you Lawrie.
Another alternative is to machine the base casting to a larger diameter hole with a flange at the inside edge. All I would have to do is retain the bearings in place. I could then go up to 20x42x10 for the shielded bearings.
Both methods will work and I have access to a mill that will accept the casting.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 09/05/2011 14:51:48

Gray6209/05/2011 16:06:17
1058 forum posts
16 photos
Hi Clive, have a look at, they sell imperial sized bearings and I have had excellent service from them in the past. They list 1/3/8" bearings.
Clive Hartland09/05/2011 16:12:55
2820 forum posts
40 photos
Hi again,
I have since found the diameter of bearing I want and I will order two ASAP>
The number is R10 2Rs and is sold by ArcEurotrade.
This changes things now and I can do the bearing fit a different way.
I will now turn down the shaft to five eigths and fit the bearings against a step on the shaft.
Then I will make a spacer and an 'End float' adjustor which I will make with a thread and screw it into the bearings to take out endfloat. Then this will be fitted into a threaded end cap.
Securing the cap with two big head screws as before.
Much simpler.
Lawrie Alush-Jaggs09/05/2011 23:55:10
118 forum posts
32 photos
Hi Clive
Sound excellent. God luck. I'll give it a go as well.
ady10/05/2011 00:00:30
612 forum posts
50 photos
Is it not easier to just make another bronze bearing, which was the original design intention.
Clive Hartland10/05/2011 07:37:11
2820 forum posts
40 photos
this is a very old machine and has need to be re-furbished. I rebuilt it when I first aquired it and have been very pleased with it.
I recently did 56 Mortice and Tenon joints and this is when the wear on the bearing became apparent. The cutter is attached at the bronze bearing end of the shaft and it started 'Chattering' and the slots were poorly cut !
I think now is the time to improve its mechanical performance and bring it up to date with new bearings.
I use the machine all the time and have another batch of bee swarm boxes to make shortly.
Regards to the bronze bearing, it would need a new shaft as well as a new bronze bearing which is far more than just turning one end down to 20mm and making an end cap to take up end float.
The bronze bearing is after all an archaic design in view of the rpm it runs at. 3500 !
ady10/05/2011 07:42:30
612 forum posts
50 photos
Regards to the bronze bearing, it would need a new shaft as well
If you need a new shaft as well I can see your point.
Good Luck.
Clive Hartland11/05/2011 19:03:22
2820 forum posts
40 photos
I have now received the bearings and have machined the shaft and fitted back in the machine.
Now in the process of making the cap to take up the end float.
This cap will have a step that goes in and touches the outer ring of the bearings and will have about one mm range of adjustment. It will be kept in place with two M4 Skt Hd screws.
The shaft machined easily and was definately EN1 steel, long curly chips. The cap is being made from what I have in that size, a bit of EN8. A lot tougher to machine on the ML10.
The shaft now has three bearings, one at the support end and a tandem pair at the pulley end.
I have taken photos and hope to put them up later.
One unfortunate thing is that I had to machine off the thread that supports the Mortice cutter head, this was a three quarter thread but I can re-machine a five eighths thread and cut back the original head and cut a new thread in it.
A job for later when I prove the mod. that I have done.
Rod Wilson06/04/2016 20:31:18
1 forum posts

Hi Clive,

Just came across this very interesting post of yours as I too have a Coronet Consort with a worn bronze bearing.

I was wondering how your modifications worked over time i.e. were they a success or would you recommend just trying to replace the bronze bearing like-for-like?

Best regards


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