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Boxford headstock spanner

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Stuart C07/03/2011 19:08:06
20 forum posts
I suspect anybody that has had to dismantle or re-assemble a boxford lathe may have had the same problem as myself and i am wondering if anybody has the answer.
 
There are 2 screws holding the Boxford headstock onto the bed, the right hand one is difficult to get to, has anybody got a drawing of the spanner that needs to be made to get at it, or have another solution.
Terryd07/03/2011 23:53:01
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1936 forum posts
179 photos
Hi Stuart,
 
I merely took an old spanner of the right size and bent it at right angles so that I could access the bolt. I will look in my toolboxes that I have left following a workshop fire and see if I can find it. If I do I will post a picture. To remove the bolt is a nuisance rather than impossible. I had to dismantle my machine to move it and it didn't really take very long. I should be able to search tomorrow and see if I can find my modified spanner,
 
Also I have some Boxford manuals and books (including 'Know Your Lathe) and you are welcome to a copy if you let me have your address via personal messages.  That is if you would like a copy.  There is also an article on how to build your own 3 1/2" lathe which is quite interesting.
 
Best regards
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 08/03/2011 00:03:19

Chris B08/03/2011 10:22:09
34 forum posts
5 photos
I heated a spanner and bent a deep offset to clear the bed when I stripped both of my Boxfords in the past. I think I had a cut down spanner as well.
 
Chris
Terryd08/03/2011 10:41:43
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1936 forum posts
179 photos
Hi Chris,
 
You're right, I now remember cutting down a cheap (ish) spanner as well so that I could get the sweep to loosen the nut a little at a time. Fiddly job but didn't take long I think.
 
Regards
 
Terry
Stuart C08/03/2011 11:19:29
20 forum posts
If I make a cranked spanner, am I right in thinking the height offset should be about 45mm to clear the bed, and about 30mm from the side of the screwhead to clear the headstock
I still have some BSW spanners, I'm thinking it's 5/16" BSW ?
 
When I speak to Boxford tomorrow I'll also ask them what they used.
Chris B08/03/2011 12:55:44
34 forum posts
5 photos
I suppose one other way would be a "crows foot" wrench if the square hole came out far enough to clear the front face of the headstock or make your own by welding a socket to a cut down ring end of a combination spanner.
 
Regards
 
CB
Richard Parsons08/03/2011 14:56:04
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645 forum posts
33 photos

I do not know the Boxford lathe too well, but a friend long ago and far away bought one. It was delivered in several boxes. To put it together he borrowed my 5/16 – 3/8” whit dynamo spanners. One was a curved ring which let you get at the lower fulcrum nuts at the front and rear of the dynamo and at the lower bolts on the starter. The other was a right angled open ended spanner which allowed you to get at the fulcrum bolts. I think you can still get the spanners and Crow foots (they are in my Cromwell catalogue but only in Metric sizes). It might be a thought to have a new bolt with a head made to fit the one of these sizes

Freddybear17/03/2011 13:32:55
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27 forum posts
54 photos
Some 15 years ago when I first aquired my AUD MK2. I had the same problem.
 
My solution having no oxy gear was to cut and weld an old whitworth spanner to do the job.
 
Even with this spaner, it was still a pain to tighten up.
 
 
I am planning a much overdue overhaul of this machine soon.
 
If my (metric) crows foot set won't fit, I will use the welded spanner to get the bolts off again, but then I am thinking that I will do one of the following:
 
A) Machine 2 custom shlouder bolts with long shanks and a metric hex on the end.
 
B) Use long versons of whitworth bolt and turn some spacer tubes ( to bring head down below the bed)
 
C) Possibly (if available) get a pair of hex cap head bolts. (I suppose I could re-thread a larger metric hex cap head bolt) I would then use a hex adaptor in a ratchet.
 
Anyone have any better idea's.
 
 
Stuart C17/03/2011 14:26:21
20 forum posts
B) Use long versons of whitworth bolt and turn some spacer tubes ( to bring head down below the bed)
 
C) Possibly (if available) get a pair of hex cap head bolts. (I suppose I could re-thread a larger metric hex cap head bolt) I would then use a hex adaptor in a ratchet.
 
does yours not have a solid bed under the headstock, if so I don't think those options would work

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