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Jan Ridders Pressure Controlled 2 stroke Engine

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David Nunes22/06/2009 23:31:37
4 forum posts
I have just completed Jan Ridders Pressure controlled 2 stroke engine from the plans supplied in ME. I noted that in the updated You Tube file that Jan had replaced the piezo ignition and I am going to use a Tim6. It should be ready to run in the next week or two. But will it???????????????
John Wood127/06/2009 16:47:30
116 forum posts
I will keep a keen eye out here for your results 'cos I am just a bit ahead of you in that I have completed mine but it's not quite running yet.
I have spoken to Jan and he reckons the piezo system is not really very good and he uses a more conventional coil and contact breaker system. I have gone for the Hall Effect electronic system and that works very well indeed. I drilled a hole in the outer edge of the cam in which to fit the magnet and fabricated a sensor holder in the base of the engine, this system of course does away with any extra mechanical drag on the engine.
I find that timing to around 20-degrees before tdc seems to work best. Also adjust the throttle lever on the vapour carb very slowly as it seems quite critical, best position seems to be nearly closed but with the air hole just appearing. I tried turning over with a pull cord, not enough. Use Jan's method of using a rubber belt or band on the crank pulley and driving with an electric drill, this turns it over for much longer and gives a chance to position the throttle. Try other timing positions and keep notes of them and any results so you can refer back.
At the moment I can get it to fire quite well, sometimes flames coming out the exhaust! but I havn't yet got it to continue running under its own power. Pay particular attention to friction, it should spin over very freely with the plug out and the fuel feed pipe disconnected. There should be a reasonable compression when these two are replaced. My plug gap is about 20-thou and I have modified my cylinder head to take a 10mm NGK plug although Jan's plug also works well. Do be sure the non-return valve system is working correctly, blowing and sucking into the various ports will determine that. Make sure that at bottom dead centre your piston is as low as it can be in the cylinder without bottoming out, adjust this with the piston to con rod fork with locking nut, this is important as it provides suitable back pressure for the expansion chamber.
Those are my findings so far and I offer these in the hope that they may be useful, once you can get it to cough you have something to work on so - good luck
All the best, John
John Wood121/07/2009 18:59:57
116 forum posts
 David, Any news on your engine yet. Just back off holiday so hope to get back onto mine very soon. Do let's hear any results etc won't you?
All the best,  John

Edited By John Wood1 on 21/07/2009 19:03:47

David Nunes25/07/2009 11:44:38
4 forum posts
Hi John, All was going well until a friend tried to adjust the gib strips on my Warco lathe - and bust one! The replacement from Warco was greatly oversize and their suggestion to scrape it down to size was a bit fatuous as it was about 0.125" too thick. Anyway, with a little help from my friends, I have reduced it to size and now have a working lathe. I shall be away all of next week, but on my return I will make a concerted effort. How is your's doing?
Kind regards, David
David Nunes03/01/2019 23:13:09
4 forum posts

I finished this engine in June 2009 and I can now report that with a great deal of help from other engineering friends, in January of 2019, I now have a working engine!! After displaying it at various model engineering exhibitions where it looked quite pretty but didn't actually work, two of my friends and I spent a total of 20 man/days before achieving what almost appeared to be the impossible!

Happy New year


Brian Sweeting04/01/2019 21:07:49
400 forum posts
1 photos

Congratulations, well deserved.

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