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Saw bench

On Meteor II

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Geoff Mathews23/05/2022 19:59:26
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32 forum posts
6 photos

9bb28390-a09b-4f86-a91e-a86f18c4e7ce.jpeg

not done it yet23/05/2022 20:07:18
6809 forum posts
20 photos

I think I would be supporting that shaft from the tailstock end.

Baz23/05/2022 20:46:43
724 forum posts
2 photos

Might be OK especially as we don’t know what’s going to be cut on it, could be oak planks or sheets of balsa wood. I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but really.

Geoff Mathews23/05/2022 21:50:49
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32 forum posts
6 photos

It is a Cowell saw bench - I am curious to learn if others have fitted Cowell fittings to earlier lathes.

Nigel Graham 223/05/2022 22:12:26
2133 forum posts
29 photos

Interesting!

I'd agree with NDIY, though as Baz says we don't know what is to be sawn.

I think I'd also arrange some sort of cover over the open headstock, to keep sawdust off the 'works'.

Still, using the lathe as a saw-bench seems to have been quite common practice at one time, when most model-engineers were lucky to have more than a simple lathe and a bench-drill.

DiogenesII24/05/2022 06:43:30
561 forum posts
221 photos

I'd assumed it was a slitting saw for cutting metal?

Doesn't Sparey (apologies if it was Bradley) have a little to say about it's use - "don't hold round stock in the fingers" or something..

larry phelan 124/05/2022 08:45:15
1180 forum posts
15 photos

Sparey gave much good advice, regarded these days mostly as "Old hat"

IanT24/05/2022 09:16:58
1993 forum posts
212 photos

I've a selection of "saws" that I cut various materials with - mostly for smaller models. So some suggestions looking at this set-up, which is incomplete for whatever you intend to use it for. Some accessories will be very helpful and save your fingers.

If you are cutting wood (or similar) then use a fence and push the work over the blade (using pushsticks of course). The worktable remains static but you need a fence.

If cutting metals, then clamp them to the worktable and use the screw feed to cut the work - the worktable moves. You can try pushing the work over the blade but it's asking for trouble in my view. So you need a clamping device

Small and/or thin parts require more care than larger parts - especially if they can move or (on a wood saw) you are not using a zero clearance insert. A sliding table for cross cutting wooden parts is very useful, giving better accuracy on cross cuts and zero clearance without changing the tables insert

When cutting thin wooden parts, cut half way down and then flip end-on-end to finish the cut. Much safer

When cutting (or trimming) small metal parts, soldering or attaching them to a larger plate makes the work much safer to do - still clamp the larger part though. btw - You can cut strip metal with a simple table clamped to the top-slide as shown, simper & easier that the larger table shown.

Regards,

IanT

EW sawing tables 003.jpg

Geoff Mathews24/05/2022 12:46:52
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32 forum posts
6 photos

Thanks for your comments - I am interested in the Flexispeed - Perris - Cowell lineage - I was hoping for thoughts and insight regarding the consonguineous history of these lathes.

Mike Poole24/05/2022 13:04:59
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Moderator
3338 forum posts
73 photos

I had to lookup consanguinity, it could be a struggle to fit in to many conversations. Could be a candidate for a Susie Dent award.

Mike

Edited By Mike Poole on 24/05/2022 13:10:06

Geoff Mathews24/05/2022 14:01:14
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32 forum posts
6 photos

To put it another way - I was amazed when a current Cowell saw attachment fitted a lathe made 56 years ago with minimal effort

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