180v motor not working on new control board

It's certain that if the motor can deliver up to 2 HP, or even 4 HP for short periods, it will take a lot more current than the original mini lathe controller is rated at, so not surprising the fuse is blowing!!

If you can access a 12V DC supply (e.g. a car battery), the motor would run happily on that albeit at much reduced speed if it is working properly. That would show up any problems such as shorted windings etc. But it might also short the battery so putting a fuse in series would be advisable.

If this is not something you have the confidence or knowledge to do, then don't fiddle!! Why buy a 2HP motor for a mini-lathe if you can't anticipate the speed controller might have problems?

John the control board is not from a mini lathe this topic is for a mill that has a new bigger control board and upgraded motor.

I have just connected the motor to a drill battery the motor runs but clunks as it goes round.

2 hp on a mini mill sounds like overkill to me

Oh dear, that's pretty conclusive: the cause isn't the controller or the wiring. I'm as sure as I can be without seeing it that the Treadmill motor is faulty.

If the case against the motor wasn't already strong enough, the photo of the controller wiring looks good.

I think Andrew's been unlucky: he's done everything right only to be stabbed in the back by a dud motor. Presumably it's second-hand and there isn't a supplier who will replace it free of charge? If so, how annoying, but try another one.

Dave

The motor is rated for 4000 RPM and I'd guess that may be a bigger problem. Or do mini mills have significant reduction by the way of pulleys or gears? I have no experience using one.

The plate confirms that it a Permanent magnet DC motor.

The fact that it knocks when run off a separate source, suggests to me that there is at least one armature winding that is either short or open circuit. A short circuit will be what keeps blowing fuses.

Luckily, it does not seem to have damaged the control board irreparably.

Either way. the motor is your problem, and is for practical and economic purposes, scrap.

Solution,

Buy and fit a motor that is correctly rated to match the control board.

Howard

I have removed the fan a for some reason knocking has stopped but it judders when running.

here is a video.

**LINK**

Fan (possibly slightly loose) was acting as a sound board. The motor is knackered. Any further effort is a waste of your time.

Hi Peter the person i bought it from suggested the bearings sounds damaged?

If after this escapade you wish to continue with DC motors but keep your costs low, I recommend looking around for a used / spares only treadmill on Facebook marketplace. They are frequently available for very little money, sometimes free. I suggest keeping the running belt as it can be repurposed for many tasks.

Best of luck, Brian

Thanks everyone for all your help i have just purchased a new motor i hope this is more suitable for my application.

Mod edit: tried to rotate the photo and failed! Other Mods have more luck

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 16/01/2022 11:27:03

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 16/01/2022 11:32:38

Edited By JasonB on 16/01/2022 16:14:01

Knackered bearings would explain rough running, but not the fuse blowing. There's an electrical problem.

Unfortunately a shorted armature winding explains rough running and the fuse blowing. I'm 99% sure your motor is a dud and needs to be replaced.

Nothing wrong with Treadmill Motors as a type, but bear in mind a second-hand motor may have been removed from a worn-out Treadmill. Although many treadmills are bought and rarely used, others are thrashed to death. Overheating is a likely cause of shorted windings: the motor was worked too hard for too long.

Dave

Damaged bearings are highly unlikely to cause the controller fuse to blow unless the motor is so stiff to turn by hand that it is overloading, and I think you would have noticed.

Dave got there before me!

Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 16/01/2022 11:28:22

That looks like a tidy new motor. I'm intrigued that it's a DC motor rated at 50/60 Hz though...

How many connections does it have, and does it have a field winding?

Perhaps it is a universal motor, but being sold as a DC motor? Greenmaster doesn't appear to be a brand or manufacturer with any data sheets.

here is a bit of information about the new motor.

https://hackaday.io/project/1730-improved-machinetool-dc-motor-controller/log/4941-specing-out

Yup, seems it must be a permanent magnet field dc brush motor.

Edited By John Haine on 16/01/2022 16:10:39

This is off topic but i am selling a chester 920 lathe if anyone interested