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Former Member28/12/2021 12:04:34
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Martin King 228/12/2021 12:07:10
980 forum posts
436 photos

Jewellers mouth operated blow lamp, needs a rubber tube and mouthpiece to be complete, my be marked Moore & Wright?

cheers, Martin

Martin King 228/12/2021 12:07:51
980 forum posts
436 photos

We restore lots of these!

martin

peak428/12/2021 12:10:32
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1671 forum posts
175 photos

Here's mine in use, some previous owner seems to have lost, or modified, the original top.

pa040561_dxo-small.jpg

Bill

Former Member28/12/2021 12:10:32
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Former Member28/12/2021 12:11:48
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

martin perman28/12/2021 12:30:24
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2042 forum posts
86 photos

I have one of these from my grandfather, have used it on small work, will have to look to see who made it, does anybody know what the material is inside, i've just bought anther Mamod steam engine and boiler and was wondering what's in the burner as it looks like it needs replacing.

Martin P.

Former Member28/12/2021 12:36:34
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

DMB28/12/2021 12:36:54
1293 forum posts
1 photos

Martin,

Material, given age of item, asbestos string???

John

Simon Williams 328/12/2021 12:37:07
652 forum posts
82 photos

Bottom item (long tapered tube) is a blow pipe, used in conjunction with a methylated spirit lamp to heat small items (eg jewellery) for hard soldering. Could also be used with a bunsen burner to direct a very small very hot flame sideways out of the main flame. Also used for heating precious metal ore for assay on a charcoal block.

Top item is a spirit burner, fill it with methylated spirit and light the wick. The flexy rubber tube with a pretty shaped (ivory?) mouth piece is missing, would attach to the bottom of the curved blowpipe tube.

To use either convincingly you need to learn the wood-wind player's discipline of being able to blow out down the tube using air stored in you mouth whilst at the same time inhaling via the nose.

HTH Simon

PS Late to the party as ever, someone came to the door and I was pipped to the post.  Story of my life.

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 28/12/2021 12:38:31

DMB28/12/2021 12:58:38
1293 forum posts
1 photos

Brought to mind adverts in ME in I think, late 60s, of a small burner device with twin metal tubes for a small heating job. Think it was called "Valtock" or something like that.

Long, long time ago, my Father made up a small meths burner but can't now remember what he used it for. Base was circular (3" dia.??) thin brass sheet with a rising taper towards the middle where there was a round, vertical sided cup, about 1" dia?? X 1/2"?? high, which served as the meths receptical. No idea what that started life as, could possibly have been a light fitting. A large hex brass nut dropped over the top with it's shoulder at the top. A piece of tinplate cut from a can was soft soldered under the shoulder and a wick hole punched in the middle. Meths in the small 'tank' and a length of asbestos string threaded through the punched hole. What he used it for is a mystery after all these years, especially as he made up his own electric soldering iron. He didn't do model making in any shape or form - his hobby was rod and line sea fishing. Point I'm making is, how easy to make useful devices just looking at items and a bit of imagination.

Former Member28/12/2021 13:13:39
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Nigel Graham 228/12/2021 13:29:59
2009 forum posts
27 photos

The meths burner in the Swedish-made 'Trangia' camping stove does not even have a wick or absorbent layer (the latter as in the 'Mamod'.

It is a spun or pressed, open, cylindrical cup resevoir with a double wall formed by turning the rim over and back down onto itself into the cup. This creates a roofed annulus, but the roof is perforated, making a ring of small holes. .The inner wall finishes slightly above the cup floor.

It is hard to see quite where the main flames are: on the open fuel surface, from the top holes, or both; but either way it is remarkably effective.

Simmnering or extinguishing is by a loose cap with a simple shutter in its top; though manipulating it can be a good way to find that flames are hot.

Journeyman28/12/2021 13:48:03
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1146 forum posts
230 photos

See also *** POST *** for catalogue pictures etc.

John

Martin King 228/12/2021 13:58:35
980 forum posts
436 photos

The VALTOCK 2000 was a later plated brass version with an extra reservoir attached at the side by a spring clip.

The top and bottom caps were made of aluminium and were notorious for seizing up almost needing stillsons to get them off.

Nearly always found with mollered top and bottom caps, undamaged ones are OK though.

Just had one last week that was a nicely done repurposed ECLIPSE AUTORAM grease gun; shame really as the Autoram is worth about 4x the item!

Cheers, Martin

Andrew Tinsley28/01/2022 17:43:33
1610 forum posts

I have and use one of the Moore and Wright mouth blowtorches like the one in the above thread. I have often wondered if there should be a gauze or some sort of wick holder that is placed on top of the wadding. Mine works fine without, but I would be interested to know if the item is incomplete.

Andrew.

PS I think the M&W code is a 606.

Former Member28/01/2022 18:04:44
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Andrew Tinsley28/01/2022 20:03:51
1610 forum posts

Hello Bill,

Thanks for the offer, but I do have the M&W info filed away. I was working from memory, too idle to get up and check!

Do you know if there is anything above the wadding? Maybe a gauze or something to retain the string / wadding that fills my particular version. Just curious.

When I use mine, I find the flame covers the whole tube diameter, which seems a bit wasteful??

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Former Member28/01/2022 20:16:09
1085 forum posts

[This posting has been removed]

Andrew Tinsley28/01/2022 20:37:01
1610 forum posts

I will try something like a washer to reduce the flame area.

Thanks,

Andrew.

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