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Super 7 questions

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Fowlers Fury16/10/2021 20:59:39
404 forum posts
91 photos

Re: Ignatz & oil loss from countershaft:-

Unless you feel some compelling, desperate need to dismantle & replace the bush then I doubt there is any great requirement to do so. AFAIK, those oiling cups on the counter-shaft of S7s lose oil at a prodigious rate.(it's almost worth collecting and recycling !).
I just top up prior to use and live with it - been that way for many years on my S7. The oiling cup on the front bearing of the mandrel doesn't lose oil at anything like that rate and remains full for long periods.
I do though always oil the nipple on the other end of the countershaft. For that it's worth investing in a genuine Reilang oil can with the appropriate female end as the Myford oiler is notoriously cr*p. The Reilang is not cheap but saves a great deal of annoyance as the oil goes through the nipple and not all over the lathe.

ChrisLH16/10/2021 22:57:15
29 forum posts
1 photos

Somebody mentioned recently that interposing a piece of cloth between nipple and Myford gun improves the sealing . It works, after 50 years of oiling everything but the bearings I can now do the job properly.

Martin Kyte17/10/2021 11:29:13
2728 forum posts
48 photos

As the countershaft bushes are sintered oilite type you would expect them to absorb the oil at a fast rate. They can only hold a certain amount, The rest will dribble out. I wouldn't fuss over them too much.

You talk about a squeel when turning on. Although you said this regarding the motor the usual source of this especially at higher speend is a dry clutch. Just a drop of oil between the cone and the pully will illiminate this.

regards Martin

Ignatz17/10/2021 14:32:30
168 forum posts
100 photos

Fowler & Martin, ... I doubled checked the oil usage at the right hand side of the counter shaft bearing once more. With the motor belt at on the low speed pulleys the oil tends to remain in the joint ( and the oil cup ) as once would hope. When the motor belt is placed on the high speed pullets then the oil starts weeping away from that right hand shaft bushing at an amazing rate... empties the oil cup in less than twenty or thirty seconds.

I know that the Oilite bushings being porous retain oil within, but should I be concerned at this great rate of oil loss?

A related question: If the oil loss is this fast when using the high speed range, how long would you estimate that I could safely run the counter shaft at high speed before needing to give it another shot of oil?

About the squeal - that was entirely due to the motor belt being too slack. The squeal came from the pulley slipping within the belt during high speed start-up. Once the belt was properly tightened the squeal disappeared.

Chris, ... great suggestion about using that little piece of cloth between oil gun and nipple. The oil gun now seals properly when applied to the nipples....

... of course, the silly oil gun still leaks all over the place from its own seals so that my hands probably get more oil than the lathe. laugh

Fowlers Fury17/10/2021 21:55:36
404 forum posts
91 photos

I can't offer any useful advice re "......but should I be concerned at this great rate of oil loss? A related question: If the oil loss is this fast when using the high speed range, how long would you estimate that I could safely run the counter shaft at high speed before needing to give it another shot of oil?"
It is very seldom that I've had need to run the S7 by switching to the "high speed" pulleys from motor to countershaft in the 20+ years since it was new. But as before ~ those oil cups on the countershaft do empty fast.
(I've equipped the S7 with a VFD etc - an excellent investment - I can now run the lathe at a fast enough rpm for 95% of jobs by leaving the belt on the "slower speed" pulleys).
No doubt it'd bring a sharp intake of breath from the experts but a few times, I've added some molybdenum disulphfide oil to the cups.
I wouldn't get too neurotic about oil loss; IMHO it's more important to keep topping up with the correct oil !

Baz17/10/2021 22:11:44
713 forum posts
2 photos

My countershaft oil cups empty as fast as I fill them, I now use chainsaw oil in them hoping that being thicker it may stay in the bearing a bit longer. The oiler on the headstock front bearing seems to last about a day before it empties, I have no idea if this correct or not, it would be nice to know how often others have to lubricate the spindle.

Martin Kyte18/10/2021 09:46:27
2728 forum posts
48 photos

Just because the oil cup is empty doesn't mean the bearing is not lubricated. So long as the bearing is loaded with oil it will self lubricate for a very long time. I did have a hunt around on the web for some data and the best I can come up with is re oil every 1000 hours or anually. For my Super 7 I add a few drops of oil to the cups every month or so and I suspect most of that goes to waste by finding its way back out again as the bushes are saturated already. Essentially if the bearing shows no sign of running hot it must be sufficiently lubricated. As an aside I would have said that chainsaw oil was far too sticky to work well with sintered bearings. I'm no bearing expert so maybe someone would like to comment further.

regards Martin

Derek Lane18/10/2021 10:40:04
725 forum posts
165 photos

Not sure if the super 7 is anything like the system I have on one of my woodturning lathes which is a record cl3 and has a tapered bearing on the spindle output side the other end has a sealed bearing.

This lathe has a small oil cup the type with the little sprung lid I find that three drops of oil everyday(if I use it for a days turning) is all it needs. I have only ever had to adjust this bearing twice in the 12 years I have owned it, any more than three drops at any turning session ends up with oil being thrown out. The cup does not hold any oil as soon as I turn it on it uses it.

I do check the bearing play once a month and clean it down after every session of turning which allows a quick inspection picking up any faults quickly.

I intend to carry this on with my metal working lathe and mill as I do with all the machines in the workshop

Fowlers Fury18/10/2021 10:46:40
404 forum posts
91 photos

As with many issues/queries raised ~ they have been covered on here before. I'd recommend to "Ignatz" that it's worth looking at this thread of 8 years ago:-

Other useful info can be found by searching on "Esso Nutto"

Shortly after acquiring my new S7B, there was a rumbling noise from around the 1ph motor. Myfords sent out a guy to inspect & rectify. He left me with a 1 litre bottle of Esso Nutto and advised that I always use that for lubrication. (He also left me with 1 litre of Shell Ensis and said to apply regularly to all bare metal surfaces of the lathe. Words of wisdom because there's never been a trace of surface rust since).
Like Martin K above - I'm no bearing expert but I'd support his doubts about chainsaw oil [and his other comments]. When I use such oil in my chainsaw, it leaves a very sticky residue.

I think the consensus re. oil loss is "it ain't broke so don't fix it".

Rod Renshaw18/10/2021 12:05:39
375 forum posts
2 photos

Re the oil cups for the countershaft bearings.

My 1970s vintage Super 7 handbook has a rather "For Industrial use" feel about it. It says, on the fold out page, "Replenish oil-cups daily" but on the following page, in the text, it says "The hardened steel countershaft runs in oil impregnated bronze bearings which are located in the swing head. Oil cups are provided for occasional lubrication."

I have tended to follow the later instruction, adding a few drops of nuto each time I came to use the lathe after a period of not using it, so rather like Martin's regime. I am still using the original shaft and bearings after 40 years so I don't worry too much about it.


Peter Sansom18/10/2021 12:38:17
107 forum posts
2 photos

I remember reading a number of years ago that Myford changed at least some of the 1/4" bsf cap screws to M6 due to the old Super 7's used 2 sizes of heads, large and small. The large head 1/4" Cap screws became unobtainable and the M6 Cap screw is between the 2 bsf head sizes. The large head we used to attach the carriage to the apron.

I would assume that Myford stopped all 1/4" bsf at that time but not sure when this occured. Check the manual if you have one, else get one.


Ignatz19/10/2021 13:27:57
168 forum posts
100 photos

Thanks, everybody for that information. I feel very much relieved about that oil-thirsty bushing. wink 2

On the topic of oil guns, yes, I have one of the Myford (Wanner) oil guns, but the thing has begun leaking at the join between the brass pump cylinder and Myford's add-on steel nozzle section.

I've tried tightening the connection, but it still leaks quite badly in use.

What would be the correct material for me to use to seal those threads? Teflon tape? Perhaps some Loctite product?


john fletcher 119/10/2021 15:20:46
785 forum posts

Ignatz, please tell me where you got the oil gun tip from as the club needs one, and yes, PTFE tape will easy cork it oil tight John

Ignatz19/10/2021 15:33:15
168 forum posts
100 photos

John, ... I ordered that oil gun (complete with the tip) from Myford Ltd.

I don't think they offer that nose piece by itself.

Yes, I paid their (high) price as I felt the cost of the oil gun cheaper than ruining the main spindle of my lathe for lack of lubrication.

I'm including the link below.

bricky19/10/2021 19:29:18
572 forum posts
68 photos

I bought one of these guns when first on the market then about 90 gbp ,but it has always leakedwhere you arrowed and ptfe has never cured it ,I have resigned myself to a leaky gun.


Ignatz20/10/2021 07:38:09
168 forum posts
100 photos

@john fletcher ...

I seem to have found a Myford (franchise) distributor that offers the oil gun tip you are looking for...

... or at least I think so. You might have to check the threading of your nose piece and make an inquiry via email to be certain.

The website is in Holland.

A translation of the words on the web page:

Extension piece and nozzle for Abnox-Wanner oil gun for the old model oil nipples from Myford.

This concerns the small part next to the oil gun / oil gun not included.

Edited By Ignatz on 20/10/2021 07:40:05

Fowlers Fury20/10/2021 11:20:08
404 forum posts
91 photos

As submitted before - many topics, like this one, have been 'done to death' on here previously.
A quick search (top right) will provide many answers.
Try this:-
Forum thread on Myford & oiling

noel shelley20/10/2021 13:06:16
1298 forum posts
21 photos

Much is said about oiling the Myford and what oil to use ! DO NOT use chainsaw chain lube ! For Nutto in the oil gun use a light engine or hydraulic oil to spec SAE 10 or ISO 32, this can be bought in 1L bottles. For slide ways Etc an engine oil to SAE 30 or ISO 68 a straight mineral oil is best not a multi grade, often sold as for classic cars/engines.If you have the quick change gear box then from memory EP 90 gear oil is used.

Since you have a lathe and the original oil gun was notorious for leaking the following may be helpful. A the usual thead for oil and grease guns was 1/8" BSP, (a common thread) and "O" rings are avalable in 4, 5 and 6mm by 2mm section (and many other small sizes) it would not be difficult to make an adaptor or a complete oil gun to solve the leakage problem. May be I should come up with a design ? Noel.

Fowlers Fury20/10/2021 14:31:30
404 forum posts
91 photos

My last contribution to this thread.......and that's to repeat the suggestion to read the earlier thread highlighted above.

For example, therein Simon Collier wrote:- "I fitted to a cheap oil can a brass end with an internal o ring selected to squeeze over my ML7 oil nipples. It was a quick and dirty prototype to test the concept, but it worked so well it remains in service. Works a treat. "

Ignatz23/10/2021 13:40:37
168 forum posts
100 photos

@ john fletcher, ... I used that PTFE tape on the oil gun connection. First cleaned all the oil off of the threads (both inner and outer) and then gave three tight wraps of the teflon tape after which I tightened up the connection with two pairs of pliers - using suitable amounts of cotton cloth between pliers and fittings to avoid damage to the parts in question.

The oil gun now works a treat. No more leaks from that joint between the brass pump and the steel extension.

Of course, I still get a splash of oil should I not make a perfect connection between nozzle and oil fitting on the lathe, but that's all part of the fun, right!?


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