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Tundish - how to make?

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steamdave25/09/2021 14:04:19
490 forum posts
39 photos

I need to make a tundish for my present project. Basically it is a truncated cone, but it has a flat side to it.

tundish 2.jpg

The top is about 1-5/16" diameter and the hex at the bottom is 5/16".

I thought about initially turning the round shape from a piece of brass bar and then slicing off a section and soldering on a piece of flat plate to give the required shape. It would be quite wasteful of the brass bar, but I do have a suitable piece that has been waiting to be used.

Another thought was to roll the tube from brass sheet after soldering on the top lip then solder in the bottom. Finally slice off a part and solder on the flat. My main worry with this method is trying to roll the tube with the bead pre-soldered on. If I leave the bead off, I doubt my silver soldering skills are good enough to roll the bead afterwards and silver solder it on before cutting out a section for the flat part.

Any other ideas would be welcome.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Andrew Johnston25/09/2021 14:18:42
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6264 forum posts
677 photos

This very question has been answered recently on TractionTalk. Here's the link:

Tundish

I think one needs to be a member of TT to view pages.

Andrew

noel shelley25/09/2021 14:34:47
758 forum posts
19 photos

CAST IT ? The picture looks as though it may be a casting ? Noel.

steamdave25/09/2021 15:24:24
490 forum posts
39 photos

I've just registered with T.T., Andrew, in order to search for the topic.

Noel. The original may well have been cast, but at the scale I'm using the use of something like coarse Scotchbrite to take away the shine will probably not look too different. Besides, I have no casting facilities or experience nor is there anyone locally with such knowledge. I suppose I did ask for other ideas!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Peter Cook 625/09/2021 15:42:09
164 forum posts
50 photos

May not be quite a purist approach, but depending on the temperatures expected could you not 3D print the funnel and epoxy in the tube and tap unit before finishing and painting?

JasonB25/09/2021 16:08:43
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Moderator
21435 forum posts
2448 photos
1 articles

I did the water pocket on my Fowler by turning the shape, cutting in half and then soldering on a flat plate, gave the other half to another builder to save waste

The other method would be to make it up from several bits, the lower part cut from solid, some thick wall tube for the larger diameter and possibly the bead as well or a separate bead and a flat plate to solder onto the side.

Edited By JasonB on 25/09/2021 16:09:05

steamdave25/09/2021 22:21:44
490 forum posts
39 photos

Peter. I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I know anyone with one, so that idea is out.

I think I will go with my original idea and carve from the solid, cut off a slice and silver solder a flat plate where the slice was removed. The bead will be incorporated in the turning of the outside and I'll pre-solder a bead on the flat plate before securing it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Dave Halford26/09/2021 17:20:26
1726 forum posts
19 photos

A bit of carefully sandblasting when finished would make it look more like a casting

Tim Stevens28/09/2021 12:18:44
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1455 forum posts

Can I suggest a possible way forward? Have you considered a casting using cuttlefish? I have used this successfully for silver and gold components, and I see no reason why it should not be successful with brass or bronze.

Regards, Tim

Ramon Wilson28/09/2021 14:04:54
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1194 forum posts
296 photos

Dave, Making it from brass or bronze from two or more parts silver soldered together seems to be the best option - if you want to achieve a reasonable rendition of a cast surface you could use an elecric engraver but make certain you protect areas that you want to remain smooth/mmachined.

Heres an eccentric strap I did for a Waller engine as an example

dscn3890.jpg

dscn3892.jpg

dscn3893.jpg

dscn3901.jpg

Hope that's of use to you

Tug

steamdave28/09/2021 15:07:34
490 forum posts
39 photos

I'm not going down any sort of casting process. I've got enough processes to cope with at the moment. But thanks for your idea Tim.

Tug. I've decided on the silver soldered approach and will consider the surface finish when I've achieved a suitable shape. Probably several weeks down the line at the speed I work at.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

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