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Tundish - how to make?

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steamdave25/09/2021 14:04:19
510 forum posts
44 photos

I need to make a tundish for my present project. Basically it is a truncated cone, but it has a flat side to it.

tundish 2.jpg

The top is about 1-5/16" diameter and the hex at the bottom is 5/16".

I thought about initially turning the round shape from a piece of brass bar and then slicing off a section and soldering on a piece of flat plate to give the required shape. It would be quite wasteful of the brass bar, but I do have a suitable piece that has been waiting to be used.

Another thought was to roll the tube from brass sheet after soldering on the top lip then solder in the bottom. Finally slice off a part and solder on the flat. My main worry with this method is trying to roll the tube with the bead pre-soldered on. If I leave the bead off, I doubt my silver soldering skills are good enough to roll the bead afterwards and silver solder it on before cutting out a section for the flat part.

Any other ideas would be welcome.

The Emerald Isle

Andrew Johnston25/09/2021 14:18:42
6574 forum posts
701 photos

This very question has been answered recently on TractionTalk. Here's the link:


I think one needs to be a member of TT to view pages.


noel shelley25/09/2021 14:34:47
1281 forum posts
21 photos

CAST IT ? The picture looks as though it may be a casting ? Noel.

steamdave25/09/2021 15:24:24
510 forum posts
44 photos

I've just registered with T.T., Andrew, in order to search for the topic.

Noel. The original may well have been cast, but at the scale I'm using the use of something like coarse Scotchbrite to take away the shine will probably not look too different. Besides, I have no casting facilities or experience nor is there anyone locally with such knowledge. I suppose I did ask for other ideas!

The Emerald Isle

Peter Cook 625/09/2021 15:42:09
259 forum posts
73 photos

May not be quite a purist approach, but depending on the temperatures expected could you not 3D print the funnel and epoxy in the tube and tap unit before finishing and painting?

JasonB25/09/2021 16:08:43
22574 forum posts
2634 photos
1 articles

I did the water pocket on my Fowler by turning the shape, cutting in half and then soldering on a flat plate, gave the other half to another builder to save waste

The other method would be to make it up from several bits, the lower part cut from solid, some thick wall tube for the larger diameter and possibly the bead as well or a separate bead and a flat plate to solder onto the side.

Edited By JasonB on 25/09/2021 16:09:05

steamdave25/09/2021 22:21:44
510 forum posts
44 photos

Peter. I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I know anyone with one, so that idea is out.

I think I will go with my original idea and carve from the solid, cut off a slice and silver solder a flat plate where the slice was removed. The bead will be incorporated in the turning of the outside and I'll pre-solder a bead on the flat plate before securing it.

The Emerald Isle

Dave Halford26/09/2021 17:20:26
2006 forum posts
23 photos

A bit of carefully sandblasting when finished would make it look more like a casting

Tim Stevens28/09/2021 12:18:44
1587 forum posts

Can I suggest a possible way forward? Have you considered a casting using cuttlefish? I have used this successfully for silver and gold components, and I see no reason why it should not be successful with brass or bronze.

Regards, Tim

Ramon Wilson28/09/2021 14:04:54
1283 forum posts
367 photos

Dave, Making it from brass or bronze from two or more parts silver soldered together seems to be the best option - if you want to achieve a reasonable rendition of a cast surface you could use an elecric engraver but make certain you protect areas that you want to remain smooth/mmachined.

Heres an eccentric strap I did for a Waller engine as an example





Hope that's of use to you


steamdave28/09/2021 15:07:34
510 forum posts
44 photos

I'm not going down any sort of casting process. I've got enough processes to cope with at the moment. But thanks for your idea Tim.

Tug. I've decided on the silver soldered approach and will consider the surface finish when I've achieved a suitable shape. Probably several weeks down the line at the speed I work at.

The Emerald Isle

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