|Jim Smith 8||25/06/2021 16:53:42|
|29 forum posts|
Is this possible? My material options in correct size imperial bar are limited to black or bright mild steel, but I don't think the original gib is anything special and seemed poorly finished? How to machine the bevels along a 168mm length of bar?
I have a vertical pillar drill but no x-y table
I don't have an angle tilting vice.
I have angle grinders
I have a 1/2" woodworking router with tct tipped tools.
I have a circular chop saw with a tct tipped metal cutting blade.
It's a bit like solving the space shuttle CO2 scrubber problem. Has anybody got ideas for making gib bevels? I've not measured theirs, but I would expect the bevel angles to be about 30 deg.?
Last resort is I could buy one, but that's not so challenging or fulfilling.
Edited By Jim Smith 8 on 25/06/2021 16:54:10
|Andrew Johnston||25/06/2021 17:05:48|
6318 forum posts
The bevels aren't critical, provided they have clearance top and bottom. Using files to produce the bevels would be a quick and simple exercise.
21636 forum posts
I'm surprised you say the correct size imperial bar, would have expected it to be a metric thickness?
If you do/t fancy filing it should be possible to rig something up to clamp the bar at an angle on the cross slide so it can be milled or flycut.
|old mart||25/06/2021 18:52:22|
|3416 forum posts|
With care and a file, you could certainly produce one, plus patience. I would make it out of brass.
|Jim Smith 8||26/06/2021 10:31:10|
|29 forum posts|
Thanks, I'm used to doing a lot of filing and time isn't an issue for me. I've read about suitable materials for compound gibs and the recommends in order seem to be cast iron, hard steel, mild steel (rough?) and brass came last in the list. Something about needing a rough surface to hold oil? Is the gib material critical for a hobby lathe getting little use? Brass is easy to work and re-make. These are the measurements I made: 3.4mm thick x 12.5mm wide X 168mm long which I thought would be closest to imperial flat bar stock? The Warco compound gib isn't tapered, which makes things easier.
If I had the machines I would start with larger bar stock..
Edited By Jim Smith 8 on 26/06/2021 10:31:57
|Dave Halford||26/06/2021 10:59:12|
|1820 forum posts|
Strip of gauge plate, you want it to stay flat and touch in more than a few random, high point load places.
Angle grind and finish with a file on the long edges for clearance. You need plate thick enough to be able to reuse the old adjusters so either 1/8th or 3mm would do.
|John Haine||26/06/2021 11:28:58|
|4277 forum posts|
What do you mean by "compound"? Is it essentially a parallelogram shape, or is it tapered? I suspect it could be hard to make anything much better than the original with the means at your disposal.
21636 forum posts
Gib for the COMPOUND SLIDE, simples
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