|Sub Wooer||13/06/2021 20:19:37|
|18 forum posts|
Hi all. I recently purchased a circa 1982 Myford Super 7 (long bed, gear box, power xslide). The previous owner used grease instead of oil, so I am in the process of dismantling and cleaning the entire lathe to clean out all of the oil paths, and replace some bearings as I go (I know at least the gear drive Oilites are leaking, likely due to lack of lube). I've been on youtube a lot, read many forums posts, and obtained the manuals and exploded diagrams, but I am wondering a few things:
1. What specialized tools should I expect to have to buy or make to generally dismantle this machine and also remove the smaller bearings (I think my headstock spindle sleeve and ball bearings are perfect and will leave them). I've already found that it appears they use some weird metric sized hex, maybe half sizes, in places. I do have a c spanner for the headstock adjustment rings, so that's good. I'll be buying the Myford oiler, I read the Wanner version works ok now, is that true? I searched in the US for a similar less expensive gun to no avail.
2. What is the approved process for removing the lead screw 2ba threaded bits to the far right? My plan is to buy a couple 7/8" 2ba screws and use a little tube and washer to encourage them out.
3. My half nut engagement lever on the apron is locked up SOLID. The lever only moves maybe 1/2mm. I can feel around back and the half nuts appear free of junk, and the lead screw turns freely. I want to pre-emptively order parts from Myford (I'm in the USA and I gather it will take a long while), but I am not sure whats broken. My HOPE is that its locked up similarly to the cross slide - it would not budge either until I took it apart and removed all the old grease the previous owner pumped in there. I also cleaned a lot of Cosmoline off of the inner parts of the slide. I was wondering if there are any cheap common to break parts for this area of the apron that I should just order so I have them on hand?
4. Can the compound and apron be removed by sliding it off of the ways to the far right, or does the screw have to come off to the left first? My lead screw goes through the gear box. This would be great to do so I may evaluate the lever above without having to remove the gear box and other gears first. I want to take my time with it and its looking like the apron is the last thing I can take off.
5. What parts should I just go ahead and replace while I have it apart? I dont want to do this again! I'm planning on doing the headstock wick, slide felt, belts, lubricating nipples. I believe this unit to be very light use, but I am one of those people that will just go ahead and buy a new $10 or 20 part so I don't have to think about something not being perfect. There must be a rubber oring or something that needs doing.
Thanks for admittance to the forum, and any advice as I start this S7 rebuild adventure.
|noel shelley||13/06/2021 21:52:19|
|635 forum posts|
Hi, And welcome ! The allen keys will almost certainly be imperial, not metric. I have a late 60s S7 with gear box but not powered cross feed. Many threads will be BSF or whitworth, both imperial. Give or take the thread angle55* as opposed to 60* for UNC they will except for 1/2" interchange. Even from here I can hear the howls of derision ! Good luck, Noel.
|Martin Kyte||13/06/2021 22:22:12|
2458 forum posts
Have you discovered the exploded diagrams on the Myford website.
The should be of some help. an example link below
there are more to be found here
|Sub Wooer||14/06/2021 00:21:20|
|18 forum posts|
Thanks. Yah I couldnt find BA threads in the us, so I ordered a ba tapper and I'll try and use that to somehow pull the screw mount pins?!
Martin, I've been all over those diagrams! Many are really bad quality and hard to discern what is what. Also, some dont show the hardware I have (ie missing gearbox)
|Chris Crew||14/06/2021 01:19:28|
88 forum posts
I note you are in the USA so are you aware that the 'real' Myford in Beeston, Nottingham ceased to exist at least 10 years ago? As far as I am aware, and I stand to be corrected, the material assets and name were acquired by a tool importer and dealer called RGD, based in Mytholmroyd, Halifax UK. This company does appear to produce new lathes, although whether they actually manufacture the machines from left-over parts, contract out the manufacturing or actually acquired the old Myford's production facilities, I have no idea, but I suspect not.
Nevertheless, RGD is a reputable company and I have bought a few parts from them and received good service in the past. I think you would have to check as to whether they could supply every Myford part as indicated in the exploded diagrams, which is something the original Myford company would do as 95% of the machine was manufactured in-house. I believe the original beds were actually cast by a foundry in Scotland. The late Myford production manager told me that when there was a rumour going round that Myford's were starting to import parts from China although later Myford collets were imported from India when Crawford's in the UK declined to produce them at an economical price. The same Myford manager told me that as well.
The old Myford was a very helpful and approachable company and many people toured the works and witnessed the lathes in production. Everything, it appeared to me, was done on a small scale by skilled craftsmen with every care being taken, which is probably why they could not compete with far-eastern imports.
Perhaps someone could enlighten us all further as to the availability Myford parts, otherwise I suspect you will be resorting to eBay for anything not available from RGD. There are other used Myford parts dealers in the UK who strip and break Myford lathes, so its worth searching around for them.
|Kiwi Bloke||14/06/2021 01:24:38|
|575 forum posts|
Try www.manualslib.com You'll find what you need.
Most threads are BSF, some BA. I can't believe that there isn't a specialist supplier in USA. The machine is pretty simple, and you can strip it to its component parts without difficulty (or fear). I'd be cautious about trying to extract the leadscrew bearing block dowels by pulling on a tap (if I've understood you correctly), especially if it's high-carbon steel. If you can source a tap, why not a die, then you can make a puller from decent high-tensile material.
Look carefully at the spindle thrust bearings. If the previous owner was daft enough to use grease, he presumably didn't read the manual (always RTFM!), so it's quite possible he damaged the thrust bearings.
When you come to reassemble, be very, very careful that you understand how to set up the spindle and the gib strips, and take great care to get the adjustments right. You might want to get topslide and cross-slide nuts whilst (if?) they are still available: they wear.
Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 14/06/2021 01:39:42
|Howard Lewis||14/06/2021 01:58:23|
|5036 forum posts|
You have a good machine. MANY model engineers,use them, and they are, or were, used in Toolrooms in Industry.
People have used them to earn their living.
Fixings will be Imperial, BSF or BSW with BA for gibs. for a machine of that age.
When you get the machine up and running, you may well already be aware of the warning never to free a stuck chuck by engaging back gear to lock the spindle. That is a short cut to damaged gears!
The Lathes UK website will be a goldmine of information.
Ian Bradley's "Myford Series 7 Manual" is a book worth buying.
The downside is that the bed is flexible, so it is important to fix the machine to the bench or cabinet, so that it is not twisted. If the bed is twisted, it will, not turn parallel. Ian Bradley tells how to check for twist and correct it.
2141 forum posts
Hey Sub. I have a super 7B around 1975. I also have pretty much all the manuals available for the super 7. All in good clear diagrams. If you need any just yell or P.M me & i will email them to you. When you have it completely stripped , i think once all the crappy gunge has been cleaned off then, all will go back ok.
|Sub Wooer||14/06/2021 04:11:02|
|18 forum posts|
I was aware RGD bought off Myford spares when closing. I've been chatting with fellow online, and have quite a large cart going. The most common spares (wicks etc) appear to be there, but many many parts are not. I would assume the owner would have some not on the site. But one part I could not find was the motor pully covers (inner and outer sides). I would like those, so if anyone has a line on some (ideally in green!), I'd love to connect.
Kiwi, I ordered a ba tap and die set, so that its a good suggestion. Will do.
A big unknown is the condition of the spindle tapered bearing. It is my assumption that it is perfect, for thee reasons. One, there were traces of some sort of oil in the cup, however I had to add a LOT of oil to get it full - this could just be age related. Second, the cross slide was locked up, and clearly was out of use for a long time, and all of the crosshatching on the cross slide was nearly perfect, I could see only a 5mm area of lateral wear at the very edge. Third, there is no perceivable movement in the cuck, in any direction. Feels completely solid, but spins freely. The compound controls are like butter after I tuned them (I have a 8" chinese lathe, so I'm well accustomed to tuning... weekly).
Howard, thanks for the heads up I did read that on another forum. You just use the spindle lock pin on the other side, yah?
I just bought Ian's book. Thanks. I did see some mention of the adjustment screws for leveling. Unfortunately, my machine also did not come with the adjustment screws or the feet.
Pm sent Stevie, thanks!
|320 forum posts|
If you are referring to the hex headed nuts and bolts, then they are British Standard Whitworth:
As far as I know Myford uses four size:
3/16 WW (1/4 BSF) = 11.3 mm AF
1/4 WW (5/16 BSF) = 13.3 mm AF
5/16 WW (3/8" BSF) = 15.2 mm AF
3/8 WW (7/16" BSF) = 18.0 mm AF
You can mill smaller SAE or metric spanners to size or do like I did (I am in Canada) and search on eBay - make sure to set your search to worldwide to get UK results with search terms like "spanner bsw" or "wrench bsw" some full sets come up, but the four sizes listed above should be sufficient. I found these fairly reasonably priced, shipping from the UK to North America can be a little high, although, don't be put off by the shipping price on the listing as it is often incorrect, so it is worthwhile contacting the seller to confirm the shipping before committing to buy.
eBay, is also a great source for Myford parts and accessories. I have found most of what I need there - sometimes it just requires a little patience. Unfortunately, with search set to worldwide, one has to wade through hundreds of listings of cheap and poor quality accessories out of India - dozens of sellers touting the exact same products which really swamp the results - it is a pity that eBay doesn't offer a way of excluding certain locations.
Myford itself, although as mentioned elsewhere in this thread are now owned by RDG, still offer some useful parts and accessories. They also supply manuals, although these do seem a bit expensive
**LINK** PDF versions can be found on the web, but I no longer have the link.
Edited By clivel on 14/06/2021 06:27:06
|Sub Wooer||14/06/2021 06:44:17|
|18 forum posts|
Thanks, that explains why I thought there were half sizes. I would guess my lathe is from1982. I'll check out the bay a bit harder..
|Mike Poole||14/06/2021 08:15:40|
3011 forum posts
Beware of metric Allen screws, at some point Myford started to use some metric fasteners. The four Allen screws that attach the headstock to the bed were changed to 8mm and the screws holding the apron to the carriage were changed to 6mm. Myford used quality fasteners so if a decent quality Allen key is a sloppy fit or won’t fit then it may be metric. A peg spanner for the bearing preload nut is handy and at least one C spanner to adjust the spindle clearance. Most of the tools needed are normal workshop tools but the whitworth sizes are getting rarer in the UK and are probably more difficult in the USA.
|noel shelley||14/06/2021 11:17:19|
|635 forum posts|
Hi Sub, To add to what howard said ! The spindle lock is on the left of the headstock and behind the spindle. Little toggle, push in and turn spindle till it engages the hole in the large 4 groove headstok pulley. I'd had my S7 for 10 years before I found it ! I was lucky but many not so, I bought 2 other S7s and both had damaged back gears so I came up with a repair scheme. Good luck Noel.
|Brian H||14/06/2021 15:15:26|
2185 forum posts
Another useful site for owners of Myfords is;
|old mart||15/06/2021 18:28:25|
|3185 forum posts|
With a power cross slide feature, I wonder if that is a link to the leadscrew nuts being locked?
|227 forum posts|
When your eBay search results are listed can't you just scroll down the filters on the left hand side of the eBay listings and set the location? It will default to worldwide on your next search but it's many times quicker than wading through everything, I can set mine to only list items to within 2 miles of my address if I want but normally use UK only.
|Sub Wooer||16/06/2021 06:14:37|
|18 forum posts||
Welp, the good news. I sprayed what I could inside the apron with REMoil and went back to it today, and tried to move the lever.. It moved a little! Then I worked it some more, and eventually it just popped free. Just like the top cross slide, it was frozen solid by a mixture of cosmoline and whatever grease the last owner used. Shes as slick as an otters back now!
The bad news, its looking like I still have to totally dismantle the lathe to be able to lift the slide off of the ways to clean out the oil paths. They are solid with grease, I'm sure. I also get a decent amount of leaking out of the right side of the gear box at the bushings. Is that normal? One side appears to hold oil, but the right side, if I fill the cavity, leaks out completely after a few hours.. maybe overnight. it appears to be weeping mostly from the lower black flange on the right side of the gearbox.
|old mart||16/06/2021 20:03:58|
|3185 forum posts|
You only have to do it once, therefore a top quality job is well worth it.
|Sub Wooer||16/06/2021 20:32:06|
|18 forum posts|
agreed. IM JUST SO LAZYT THOUGH.
But really, its a great little project for covid days. I'm going to take my time with it and have some fun.
I got the VFD powered up. It throws my GFCI, but works fine on a normal plug. Not sure what I'm going to do there yet. I also need to find a good VFD grade cable and 10 conductor cable for the control box I am putting together. I'm using these cute little levers for jogging and direction.. can wait to show ya'll.
1431 forum posts
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