|gerry madden||06/06/2021 13:36:54|
|250 forum posts|
As if I haven't all ready go enough to do, I've just made a start of restoring a 1950s Cyclemaster Motor Wheel. I got it back in the 70's clearing out a neighbours shed. I played with it for a while and it worked pretty well. It must be all this current talk about 'E-bikes' but something is compelling me to get it going again and perhaps use it for climbing mountain tracks in the north. (Might need a change of gearing for that though!)
Just a general survey of this mean machine yesterday showed that all the rubber bushed engine mounts and a 'cush-drive' on the output shaft have turned into a black goo. I imagine the original spares will be hard to come by so what do vehicle restorers usually do when faced with perished rubber parts ? Are there sources that can cut new parts from fresh material ?
|1299 forum posts|
My Father used one for cheap travel to n fro to work when I was young. He was forever a bike/2wheel enthusiast since his young days. He seemed to always be de - cooking the Cyclemaster.
|J Hancock||06/06/2021 13:45:50|
|832 forum posts|
If you visit a decent electrical distributor , you should be able to buy a two-pack self-setting hard rubber compound that would do that job perfectly.
|john fletcher 1||06/06/2021 17:17:26|
|785 forum posts|
I'm a member of the "British Two Stroke club" and I think there is section for Cycle Masters and similar MEAN machines. I'm sure you would be most welcome and be able to share information with others. If you send me a PM I will send you details of BTS. John
135 forum posts
Would sectors cut from a ice-hockey puck be too stiff? Could have a hole drilled to ‘tune’ them to what is needed.
i remember our history teacher having one and driving it with gusto.
|1696 forum posts|
You could try emailing the National Motorcycle Museum for advice, I think they use various restorers.
Edited By V8Eng on 06/06/2021 21:34:46
|gerry madden||07/06/2021 13:34:43|
|250 forum posts|
Good suggestions, as per usual on this forum.
|Robin Dufton||09/06/2021 21:42:02|
|34 forum posts|
Potting compound wouldn't be ideal as it's often a hard setting epoxy.
We use this stuff for reproducing NLA rubber parts on vintage bikes, just pick a suitable hardness and make a mould. Give it a few days to cure and you're good to go. Link
One piece of advice with castable PU. To reduce the chance of getting bubbles when you mix the two parts, put the bottles in warm water before pouring it out.
Edited By Robin Dufton on 09/06/2021 21:44:01
|250 forum posts|
Thanks Robin, I will investigate this.
|Nicholas Wheeler 1||10/06/2021 09:04:53|
|909 forum posts|
Another piece of advice for castable PU: they're aren't kidding about the six month shelf life, so don't buy a bigger amount than you need because it looks more economical!
|Rich Griff 2||30/01/2022 14:06:59|
|14 forum posts|
I have one of those engines, but not the wing wheel one, in the shed.
British two stroke club ?
Please could you pm pe about that club please ?
|Frances IoM||30/01/2022 15:28:28|
|1248 forum posts|
|Makes me feel old I had one aged 16 in very early 60's - the roads were quiet then but I certainly wouldn't feel safe on one now. But even after 50 years I do miss my Honda CB72.|
|Tim Stevens||30/01/2022 18:32:02|
1587 forum posts
An alternative to rubber is polyurethane. The tuning shops tend to stock a range of sizes for suspension eyes - as do Land-Rover specialists.
|John Hinkley||30/01/2022 19:39:05|
1304 forum posts
Yet another avenue to explore would possibly be 3D printing with TPU flexible filament. I don't have a 3D printer but from what I read, having Googled it, it could work, though I suspect that you may have to experiment with the infill settings to obtain the required stiffness.
If I couldn't get direct replacements from a Cyclemaster spares specialist, like the one in Earls Shilton Liecester, I'd be tempted to buy a car engine or exhaust mount and carve it into shape, somehow.
Edited By John Hinkley on 30/01/2022 19:44:47
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