Myford Change Gears
|David Couling||05/06/2021 19:25:40|
|10 forum posts|
I know this question has been posted previously but with the passage of time, my hope is the situation may have changed and maybe someone can suggest where I can purchase a pair of T33 & T34 change gears for a Myford MLSuper 7?
|William S||05/06/2021 20:00:51|
71 forum posts
I got my 2 from the “new Myford” at Ali Pali ME exhibition a couple of years ago, so check there website.
Have you found the comprehensive chart of most combinations on the other post about this topic? I think it is on the second page, it’s the best thing I think I have found! The few times I have needed this mod it has been for some really odd stuff that would not otherwise be possible.
Hope that helps
|old mart||05/06/2021 20:08:39|
|3775 forum posts|
Looking on ebay regularly under metalwork lathes, I see a large number of Myford gears of all sizes always on sale.
|686 forum posts|
Unfortunately, he is not looking for a "large number" "of all sizes". He is looking for one gear in each of two specific sizes, 33t and 34t.
Could you point us to a specific eBay seller who currently, or within the last three months, has or had one or both of these in stock. Thanks.
If the OP does not want to cut his own gear, another option might be a 3D printed one. Have a look on Thingiverse as one might exist already, or there will be a program there to produce the file to enable it to be printed.
A second option is to approach an eBay seller, you_engraving. He makes Colchester and Harrison gears in delrin at good prices, and might make you a Myford one.
|Pete Rimmer||05/06/2021 22:49:12|
|1233 forum posts|
I did a batch of 33 and 34T for the myford about a year ago when they were unavailable. I have some still sitting on the shelf if you can't find them elsewhere.
|David Couling||06/06/2021 00:48:25|
|10 forum posts|
Wow....thanks for all of your replies guys. I have searched the various sellers of gears on ebay and not surprisingly these two gears are the ones which are not available.
Pete....I would very much like to take you up on your offer...is it possible for you to PM me please.
Many thanks for all of your inputs...
|Peter Sansom||06/06/2021 11:59:12|
|109 forum posts|
RDG periodically have stock. I you contact them they will let you know when they are expecting more.
|david homer||09/06/2021 23:33:54|
|35 forum posts|
HPC gears are good source of spur gears, not cheap though. I think Myford gears are 20dp or used to be on earlier lathes.You will have to modify the bore to suit your needs they do 33 and 34 tooth.
|Roderick Jenkins||09/06/2021 23:45:04|
2184 forum posts
Myford change gears are 14.5 degrees pressure angle. Unfortunately HPC only do 20 degrees.
|Frank Mckenzie||15/11/2021 14:22:09|
|7 forum posts|
So I've got an imperial super 7 with a quick change gearbox and am looking to cut metric threads.
Is it just a matter of changing to 33t gear..or is there more to it than that..?
|Tony Pratt 1||15/11/2021 17:10:15|
|1966 forum posts|
Off the top of my head you can get a very close approximation using 33 & 34 teeth gears, quite a few posts on here already about it & I did have both gears but my Super 7 has now gone to another home along with the gears.I'm sure others will chip in in due course
2436 forum posts
I bought mine around 18 months ago from Myford/ RDG. I think they are out of stock as Kev is making some now. Look him up. Youtube. Mr Factotums workshop.
|Simon Williams 3||15/11/2021 21:54:02|
|654 forum posts|
Reverting to Frank's question "is there more to it than that", well, yes there is.
I did a search on this forum and came up with this as being pretty typical of the collected knowledge:
It includes a useful table courtesy of Roderick Jenkins (first page of this thread) detailing what to set the QCGB to for a wide section of metric pitches.
There are other references, also the definitive text is Brian Wood's book "Gearing of Lathes for Screwcutting". Amazon say they have stock.
Please note you need to know if you have an early gearbox or a late gearbox. This thread :
explains why, and how to tell the difference.
|Simon Williams 3||16/11/2021 00:25:15|
|654 forum posts|
Dunno if it helps, but this thread has got some further information about the 33 and 34 tooth gears:
|79 forum posts|
How about 3d Printing?
|Frank Mckenzie||16/11/2021 10:24:07|
|7 forum posts|
Thanks for all the replies.Very helpful indeed.
I don't know about the type of model gearbox early/late.
The lathe itself is 1974-1977ish according to the serial number.
Is there any way of knowing the gearbox vintage..?
|Tony Pratt 1||16/11/2021 10:48:26|
|1966 forum posts|
Unlikely to be strong enough?
|Simon Williams 3||16/11/2021 11:18:31|
|654 forum posts|
Diagnosing the gearbox vintage is straightforward. There are pictures of the differences in the threads referenced above, but the simple way is to first check that the thread cut is that indicated on the gearbox top label. So check - for example - if the levers are set for 20 TPI then 20 TPI is what you get.
Now open the gear cover to look at the changewheels carrying the drive down to the fat 72 T gear on the input shaft of the gearbox. If the gearbox is the later type the input gear on the mandrel (first stud below the tumbler gears) will be 24 tooth. It will be mounted on a 30 T which meshes with the tumbler gears. I don't have a picture of this to hand but maybe someone else can add one. There are pictures in the threads referenced above.
If the gearbox is the older type the gear driving the chain down to the input to the gearbox will be a 12/30 compound gear as the old gearbox runs at half the speed of the newer one. Here's a picture of the gear cluster for the older gearbox:
The Myford one is the steel one on the left; the bronze one on the right is another (related) story.
If you do have the older gearbox don't buy the 33 and 34 T gears - they are no use to you. If this is the case report back on here and I will introduce you to the alternative solution (it's that bronze gear!).
Best rgds Simon
|3554 forum posts|
Later model from QC2495 onwards (1956). Look it all up on Lathes.co.uk if you want more info.
|Brian Wood||16/11/2021 11:35:43|
|2566 forum posts|
There are three clues.
The easiest being to look at the gearbox, right hand side. The later ones ( Serial 2501 + onwards) have the leadscrew running straight into the box. The earlier versions had a little housing on the right hand side into which the leadscrew went instead. The gearbox serial number is stamped on that side.
Another clue is the one Simon Williams mentioned with 30/12 tooth gearing in the gear chain. This was to provide a 1:2 reduction before feed to the early gearbox. Later boxes incorporate reduction gearing of 26/52 hidden behind the mounting plate that the banjo fits over; there is a small teardrop shaped window where you can see part of the 52 tooth gear. In the later gearbox the leadscrew is brought right through the gearbox to those reduction gears.
From the date of the lathe I suspect yours is the later version gearbox in which case the table that Roderick Jenkins provides will apply, as will the material in my book
Finally, there is a simple replacement for the lower clamp stud for the banjo that allows it to be lowered, which then makes room for mandrel gears in excess of 34 tooth to be used as drivers, thus opening up a whole world of possibilities in screwcutting.
Regards Brian .
Edit While I've been composing my input, Simon has answered you query, as has KWIL and if you have the early gearbox, then Simon is the man to help you. He did a LOT of work along with the late John Stevenson to get around the calculated gearing values based on versions of 33 and 34 gears having 33.5 teeth and 34.5 teeth!
Impossible of course but there are ways and means!
Edited By Brian Wood on 16/11/2021 11:44:12
Edited By Brian Wood on 16/11/2021 11:45:00
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