By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale Jan 24th

What are these morse taper collets for?

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Ian Parkin01/06/2021 09:29:27
975 forum posts
231 photos

I’ve seen these mt2 collets for sale on eBay...

what do you use these for?

i have ones with a draw bolt to hold work or cutters

but how do these hold things?


Nigel Graham 201/06/2021 09:52:02
1686 forum posts
20 photos

Not seen that pattern but I would guess they are to hold parallel-shank reamers or milling-cutters, possibly specific drills, in a tailstock with tang, or (reamers only) a pillar-drill.

They seem to have had a hard life. Two look as they became overheated somehow, while some look badly scarred. I wonder if they had been used in a plain spindle and sometimes allowed to spin badly.

Either that or they are "home-made" and the colour was from hardening and tempering. (Commercially-made collets would be finish-ground.)

Any markings suggesting commercial manufacture?

mgnbuk01/06/2021 10:00:44
1031 forum posts
69 photos

I have a vague recollection that those are "saver sockets" that allow further use of tooling that has a damaged Morse taper. I can't find any further descriptions of the type at the moment - maybe have something in an older engineering book at home.

Nigel B.

SillyOldDuffer01/06/2021 10:25:33
7487 forum posts
1658 photos

I agree with Nigel except the absence of a drawbar shouts 'drill' at me rather than milling cutter. Drills don't need a drawbar, but milling cutters definitely need to be held secure somehow!

I think they're adaptors for converting small drill tapers to a large taper pillar drill. An ejector wedge is banged in to the rectangular holes to remove drills from the adaptor. I think taper adaptors are expedient rather than best practice - ideally a tapered tool should plug straight into the machine socket to reduce run-out and slipping. (Nigel suggests damage due to spinning - I think that's likely because each converter has two tapers and either could slip due to dirt or looseness. )

Do MT taper shank drills have any advantage in a Model Engineering workshop? I see taper shank drills as quick change devices valuable when lots of pillar drilling of different diameters is done in a hurry. In my lazy workshop, it's hard to beat a keyless drill chuck, and Jacobs only become a nuisance when drills have to be swapped very frequently.


Ian Parkin01/06/2021 10:38:14
975 forum posts
231 photos

From the description on eBay i read that they were parallel inside and MT2 on the outside..i presumed that the hole half way up was for helping out a drill or shaft inserted..?

Nicholas Farr01/06/2021 10:43:41
2962 forum posts
1335 photos

Hi, I was thinking they maybe Retang Drill Sleeves.

retang sleave-1.jpg

However, if they are parallel inside, it counts them out, but I suspect they would hold parallel drills into a taper quill otherwise.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 01/06/2021 10:46:10

Chris Gunn01/06/2021 10:56:53
389 forum posts
26 photos

Ian, they are for holding parallel shank drills in the sleeve, so you need a dedicated sleeve for each drill size. the drill is inserted just a short way into the slot, and a drift can then be used to eject the drill. I would have thought more handy for production work, one can use a cheaper parallel drill in the sleeve, when the drill is done throw just the old drill away, and you still have the sleeve for another new drill. I would think in most modelers workshops these would not be of much benefit.

SOD, I use taper shank drills quite frequently, especially in the bigger sizes above 1/2" as no chance of the bigger drills spinning in use as they can in a keyless or Jacobs style. I am not a fan of turning the shank of bigger drills to hold the in a drill chuck. If I am making a quantity of anything that requires a series of drilled holes I will use taper shank drills from 1/4" up, I have accumulated a set of metric and imperial taper shank drills over the years. Used ones are often cheap to buy as only folk like us have the machinery to employ them.

Chris Gunn

mgnbuk01/06/2021 11:11:12
1031 forum posts
69 photos

Split drill driver

Had a bit more of a dig around & found the above link. These also seem to be referred to as "automotive drill" holders in some accounts & appear to require a drive square to be put on the end of the bit, with the parallel bore just to hold them concentric.

The "Use 'em up" repair sockets I initially thought of are not split.

Nigel B.

HOWARDT01/06/2021 11:56:12
777 forum posts
28 photos

Can’t quite see the detail but I think they are parallel drill sleeves. When using smaller drills, say under 10mm it is cheaper to use tanged parallel shank drills than morse taper. Used a lot in production drilling setups where you have a taper shank spindle. The shanks are specific for a small range of drill diameter and the drill has a pair of flats on the end of the shank which fits into the sleeve for drive, pushing the sleeve into the spindle grips the drill. Specified them a lot in my design days for multi spindle drill setups. There was a similar question some time ago ( years).

peak401/06/2021 12:20:06
1470 forum posts
159 photos
Posted by mgnbuk on 01/06/2021 11:11:12:

Split drill driver

Had a bit more of a dig around & found the above link. These also seem to be referred to as "automotive drill" holders in some accounts & appear to require a drive square to be put on the end of the bit, with the parallel bore just to hold them concentric.

The "Use 'em up" repair sockets I initially thought of are not split.

Nigel B.

I have a small few long series drill bits, where the blunt end has a stepped pair of flats, much like the tang on a morse bit.
The shanks, seem higher quality finish than conventional drill bits, and may well be harder.
One is stamped HS, above a C in a diamond, above GB, which I assume is the trade mark; the other two are not marked at all, even for size.
I'm guessing they would be ideal partners to these collets.

long bits -1s6010910_dxo-small.jpg

long bits-2 s6010911_dxo-small.jpg

The colour representation is about correct. The centre bit seems like HSS, but the outer two are noticeably heavier and only weakly magnetic.


Edited By peak4 on 01/06/2021 12:21:16

Tony Pratt 101/06/2021 13:33:19
1660 forum posts
8 photos

From distant memory they are adaptors for holding parallel shank drills which then go into capstan lathe turrets.


HOWARDT01/06/2021 14:30:24
777 forum posts
28 photos

Bill, yes they are used with split sleeves I mentioned, no problem using them in a chuck also. I assume split sleeves are still available from some tooling companies, did find this specification for the drill tang Drill Tnag Dimensions from the USA.

Pete Rimmer01/06/2021 17:20:11
1053 forum posts
69 photos

I have a couple of those in MT1 size. They are for holding drills.

jimmy b01/06/2021 17:58:42
737 forum posts
42 photos

These are for holding taps. I have used them in the past at work.



old mart01/06/2021 18:10:14
3317 forum posts
203 photos

Peak4, the two odd drills are showing the characteristics of solid carbide. Its a shame they are too long for safely starting a hole in hardened steel. You could try a file on the end of their shanks, HSS would file.

I have never seen the MT holders before, but holding straight shank drills or taps without needing a chuck would be my guess.

John Reese07/06/2021 01:48:09
975 forum posts

The split drill drivers when combined with a taper length drill has the same dimensions as a taper shank drill. They were often used with an automotive shank holder in transfer lines for machining motor blocks, heads, etc. Split drivers are also made for reamers and taps.


These sockets allowed for adjustment to compensate for resharpening drills. The machine spindle had a cylindrical bore with a keyway. There was a grub screw to engage the whistle notch on the holder. A dull tool could be swapped for a sharp one very quickly. The tool and holder were preset to the correct length before being put in the machine.  drills and reamers were always run in guide bushings on the transfer machines.

Edited By John Reese on 07/06/2021 01:50:33

Ian Parkin13/06/2021 14:58:22
975 forum posts
231 photos


I ended up buying the set of these as i thought they may come in useful for holding taps

however taps wont fit with out making the square much smaller

drills will fit but need a pair of flats grinding





There’s a set from 1/4” to 1/2” in 16th” intervals all made by dormer and all seem to be in excellent condition

Edited By Ian Parkin on 13/06/2021 14:59:26

Bill Davies 214/06/2021 13:06:22
242 forum posts
11 photos

... and by chance I fall across this:

Mr Pete on centre drill driver

Me Pete aka TubalCain (the American one). He shows a centre drill being held in a split morse taper sleeve, and he mentions that the drill locks when it is partly rotated, which I don't understand.


Ian Parkin14/06/2021 13:31:42
975 forum posts
231 photos

Brilliant Bill

thats a great use for my set

Bill Davies 214/06/2021 14:31:55
242 forum posts
11 photos

Ian, I would presume that they are intended to hold a 'dead size' tool, as the morse taper relies on friction along its length to provide drive. It doesn't have a drawbar, but if driven in (well, gently tapped in) past its nominal size, it will not drive properly. I noticed that TubalCain had some resistance when pushed into the sleeve so presumably sprung to a slighly smaller diameter.

As noted on other occasions, the tang does not provide drive, but is for removing the taper.

Sorry if this is 'sucking eggs' to you.


All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
JD Metals
walker midge
rapid Direct
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest