|Robin Graham||03/05/2021 23:39:44|
|945 forum posts|
I've been spending some time polishing brass lately. I would like to be able to protect finished parts (flat surfaces, nothing complicated) pending assembly. I had a look for protective film - the sort of stuff that you peel from metal sheets supplied as polished - but found only industrial-quantity suppliers.
Does anyone know where I could get small quantities? Or are there any suggestions for DIY alternatives? Obviously it's important that the film leaves no discernible residue when peeled off.
796 forum posts
Sticky back vinyl wrap should do you, if you're in the UK I could post you a small bit to try.
|Keith Long||04/05/2021 00:19:26|
|877 forum posts|
What about ordinary kitchen cling-film?
|Paul Lousick||04/05/2021 00:55:51|
|2019 forum posts|
I second the use of kitchen cling film. Not just for polished brass but steel as well to prevent rusting prior to painting. Also use it to wrap finished parts in to prevent scratches and dings.
|662 forum posts|
The generic search term is 'low tack protection film'. A small roll is available from Toolstation, product code 20527.
|John Haine||04/05/2021 08:03:58|
|4643 forum posts|
Renaissance Wax. Also for final polishing. Google is your friend.
|Adam Mara||04/05/2021 08:09:09|
|167 forum posts|
Application tape is probably the answer. Its a low tack adhesive paper used to hold vinyl lettering spacing in situ when applying to the final surface.. No good as a long term solution as the adhesive grips more over time! Lots for sale on Ebay, if you want a sample PM me!
2947 forum posts
+1 for cling film; also try clear auto laquer/ hair spray, if SWMBO will let you use hers, can be easily removed using acetone ( nail polish remover ).
22604 forum posts
I would be very wary of the protective films sold by the likes of Toolstation, Screwfix etc as I have found if left for an extended period of time will leave adhesive on the surface. Couple of weeks max is as long as I like to leave them down.
|Bob Stevenson||04/05/2021 12:37:36|
|579 forum posts|
....What Jason said!......you can try low tak airbrush film but my expereince has been that the adhesives are a problem with polished brass. I always store finished parts in plastic zip-lock bags with the air pushed out, inside a plastic box.
|Ron Laden||04/05/2021 13:54:25|
2297 forum posts
ARC list MetalGuard, Ultra, not used it but it reads well.
Leaves a 2 micron clear film that does not yellow contains corrosion inhibitors for ferrous and yellow metal.
|John Haine||04/05/2021 15:20:47|
|4643 forum posts|
Let me reiterate my suggest of Renaissance wax. I doubt that any stick backed film would be suitable for the final assembly, but the surface will need just as much or more protection then.
This product is designed for the job, it works very well, no reason why it shouldn't be applied to the parts initially and another treatment when assembled. A small pot is not terribly expensive
|Derek Lane||04/05/2021 16:10:39|
725 forum posts
A very good product have used it many times it also prevents fingerprints showing on the item it is used on. If it is good enough for the British Museum then good enough for me.
As for "Not terribly expensive" a pot of 65ml about 10 years ago was about £11 and I still have 1/2 of that left as it does go a very long way
|Robin Graham||05/05/2021 00:11:50|
|945 forum posts|
Thanks for suggestions.
I had tried clingfilm - I couldn't get it to stick reliably. It is also quite thin at ~ 10μm.
I've used Renaissance wax for metal finishing, and it's good stuff I agree - but not really what I want here. Corrosion isn't the problem, it's a need to protect the work from the scratch demons which seem to inhabit my workshop. Or to put it another way, to protect the work from my sloppy and inconsistent practices.
I have MetalGuard from ARC - it's great for what it's meant for, but it's not what's needed here.
I had thought about painting or spraying with some sort of protective film, but then it has to be removed with a solvent, which would give further scope to the scratch demons.
It sounds like the vinyl transfer tape which Adam suggested might work. I had a look (I wasn't aware of the technology) and have ordered a roll. I went for the brand which had the most negative reviews for the intended purpose - 'not sticky enough'. It won't need it to be in place for more than a few days,
Many thanks to Pete and Adam for offering samples - very much appreciated, but I succumbed to the lure of 'Free delivery: Tomorrow. Order within 14 minutes'. So the stuff should be with me tomorrow - or later today, looking at the clock now.
Edited By Robin Graham on 05/05/2021 00:13:55
Edited By Robin Graham on 05/05/2021 00:14:43
Edited By Robin Graham on 05/05/2021 00:35:32
Edited By Robin Graham on 05/05/2021 00:50:23
6301 forum posts
I think a lot of people were thinking about oxidation as your problem but now you mention mechanical damage as the enemy.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.