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Myford Backplate tapered thread size

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Adrian Sherlock14/04/2021 12:43:46
5 forum posts
5 photos

I inherited many years ago a small myford lathe

I tried to get some information on it from Myford themselves but they had no record on this Myford D1 No. D3571 saying it must be pre war

The problem I am having is that the thread on the chuck backplate is totally shot and no longer runs true

The taper that it screws onto starts at about 1" up to just under 1 1/16" at the top of the taper and is 12TPI

The diameter of the 3 jaw chuck is 4 3/16, the backplate fits into a 3" recess and is secured by 3 bolts

I have seen some backplates on the internet but they do not have any bolt holes so cannot see how they would attach

Threads on the internet appear to be listed as 1" or 1 1/16", mine tapers between the two so cannot figure out which is correct

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers Adrian

(P.S. Cannot figure out how to attach photos that are on my PC)

Adrian Sherlock14/04/2021 13:44:20
5 forum posts
5 photos

Just measured the diameter of the shoulder at the top of the thread and it measures 1.12"

So think that I have answered my own question and it is actually a 1 1/8 that I need, that seems to be google'ing as the Myford standard.

Grindstone Cowboy14/04/2021 15:05:17
584 forum posts
57 photos

How to post photos

Brian H14/04/2021 15:18:46
2107 forum posts
113 photos

This may help;



Georgineer14/04/2021 16:08:15
507 forum posts
30 photos


A lot of what you need to know was covered recently in this thread:

George B.

John Haine14/04/2021 16:53:24
3826 forum posts
222 photos

What do you mean by "tapered"? The standard Myford thread is 1 1/8" 12 tpi. There should be a 1 1/8" plain "shoulder" near the main body of the spindle, normally called the "register" which makes the backplate run true (if the latter is accurately machined). If your nose actually tapers in diameter you have a problem! It would be seriously worn.

Adrian Sherlock14/04/2021 17:25:14
5 forum posts
5 photos
Posted by John Haine on 14/04/2021 16:53:24:

What do you mean by "tapered"? The standard Myford thread is 1 1/8" 12 tpi. There should be a 1 1/8" plain "shoulder" near the main body of the spindle, normally called the "register" which makes the backplate run true (if the latter is accurately machined). If your nose actually tapers in diameter you have a problem! It would be seriously worn.

Definitely tapers at the end on the 'spindle', the backplate thread also tapers from 1.2" for the shoulder then down to 1.03"

Mates got a Super 7, time to remove his Chuck I think

Hopper14/04/2021 23:39:18
5427 forum posts
134 photos

The tapers don't sound anything like Myford chucks. Something weird is going on.

Before you can get any kind of meaningful advice, you really need to identify from what model of Myford you have. And posting some pics of the tapered spindle and threads would be most helpful.

Howard Lewis15/04/2021 16:21:15
4738 forum posts
10 photos

Any chance of pics?

Are you certain that it is a Myford? Is the name cast into the bed anywhere?

If the thread is 1.125 x 12 tpi with a 1.250 register the Mandrel sounds like a Myford 7 Series.

The 7 Series has mounting foot under both Headstock and Tail;stock

The last Myford ML 3 and 4 had a 1.125 thread (See lathes UK ) But they were cantilever beds, with no mounting under the Tailstock.


old mart15/04/2021 17:53:27
2908 forum posts
184 photos

Here's a picture of a myford thread, it is not tapered.


Lee Rogers15/04/2021 19:02:25
120 forum posts

I'm leaning towards the thought that you have an ML in the series 2--3 or 4. Notorious for the variety of meaningless foundry numbers cast into the bed . Add to that a few decades of user mods and upgrades and you have a puzzle on your hands. There is no such lathe as a Myford D1. A picture or two would help .

Adrian Sherlock16/04/2021 00:08:30
5 forum posts
5 photos

Here is a picture of my lathe

I will get a photo of the tapered spindle hopefully tomorrow

img_20171203_175652.jpgimg_20171203_175737.jpgMyford Sign

Hopper16/04/2021 03:13:10
5427 forum posts
134 photos

Looks like one of the ML1 to ML4 series. Maybe a late ML4 with the V belts but has the earlier side-plate tailstock. Plethora of info on on the subtle variations **LINK**.

Apparently no serial number records survive today. D1 is some kind of casting identification code used by the factory/foundry and not indicative of the lathe model nomenclature.

But the ML1-4 over the years increased spindle thread size from 7/8" to 1-1/8". All were parallel threads with a parallel plain register collar behind the thread.

They are a useful old lathe capable of good work with a bit of care and understanding.

There are quite a few ML1-4 owners on the forum who will be able to provide more detail.


Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2021 03:40:34

Lee Rogers16/04/2021 08:40:44
120 forum posts

Yes I'll go with the ML 4 as a best guess so far . The identifying detail is in the headstock and leadscrew attachments and the tailstock. The foundry patern numbers are as Hopper says a constant blind alley when identifying the 1234 series of lathes. Don't expect it to take off huge chunks with an insert tool and you'll find it does a tidy job when set up. The thing with these very light lathes is that everything takes twice as long to do , I recon that means they're twice the fun.

Adrian Sherlock16/04/2021 11:32:34
5 forum posts
5 photos

Just took the spindle out, no step from the shoulder, shoulder is 1 1/8" 12tpi

Think it maybe worn (as suggested) and not a chamfer as the bottom thread are rounded and the top almost square

Might be enough thread a shoulder to still be usable, old backplate was completely shot, couple of threads left only

Assuming a standard 1 1/8" backplate will be what is required

Myford ??

Myford ??

Hopper16/04/2021 12:19:10
5427 forum posts
134 photos

If you mean a standard ML7 backplate, no it is not quite the same. The ML7 register collar is slightly larger diameter than the thread, maybe about 1-1/4" or so. Tony at does sell a range of backplates, he may have one suitable for the ML4 spindle.

The thread in your pic looks well used but still useable. The chuck is located by the register collar and the face on the shoulder behind it, so a sloppy thread is not the end of the world.

old mart16/04/2021 15:41:23
2908 forum posts
184 photos

The spindle thread shows a lot of wear, but with a new backplate, the joint will be satisfactory. The front of the backplate will have to be trued up by skimming in situ.

Howard Lewis16/04/2021 17:28:31
4738 forum posts
10 photos

It looks like a ML3 or 4.

A Ml1 or 2 would have a centre height of m3.125" where the 3 and 4 are 3.5"

The ML3 is 15" centre distance, where the 4 is 24" (Confirm with Lathes UK website )

Yours appears to have the optional Tumbler Reverse and the side hinged cover for the Changewheels.

The Leadscrew is 8 tpi, but the Leadscrews for the Cross and Topslide are 12 tpi. The dials for these have 80 divisions, which means that each division is not 0.001" but 0.00104"

Chagewheels are driven by driving collars (secured to the Mandrel and Leadscrew by 1/4 BSF grub or capscrews.

(Virtrually all threads, except possibly the gib adjusters, will be BSW or BSF )

To transfer the drive between the collars and gears, or to compound gears, there is a 3/32" pin in a blind hole in each part.

If you are short of Changewjheels, those from the 7 Series will fit. Dimensionally they are the same, but have a keyway instead of the 3/32 hole.

So you will need to drill through one original gear to use as a template. Fit both gears onto one of the changewheel studs, and drill though into the 7 Series gear, keeping away from the keyway..

With additional gears, you can set up a fine feed, 20:60/20:65/20:60. This will give a fine feed for turning of 0.0000427" / rev. You may need to fettle the inside of the Mandrel end of the Banjo to enable the first stud to move far enough to set the correct mesh for the gears.

My advice is to set the mesh, starting from the Leadscxrew, and working your way to the Mandrel. Just run a piece of paper about 0.003" thick between the gears.



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