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Inherited ML7 in need of some love - where to start?

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Hopper05/03/2021 23:12:29
5404 forum posts
131 photos

ON most of those the standpipe is riveted or peened over into the base to seal it. The whole thing should unscrew out of the lathe as one unit. A good squirt out with spray can degreaser from SuperCheap Autoparts should do it. Or poke a wire through there. Then blow through with air if you have a compressor. They are just a straight through pipe with valve seat machined inside so no advantage to separating them from the base and causing leaks down the track.

You can get some hydraulic oil from the auto parts store too. Often sold as compressor oil or jack oil or just plain hydraulic oil. ISO 32 grade is the norm, although ISO46 seems more commonly stocked and will work just fine. That will do to get you going. (Although I just use any leftover engine oil lying around but that seems to be out of fashion.)

A good thing to do in the early stages too would be to start sorting through all those boxes of accessories and identifying them and getting them soaking in degreaser then oil them up to prevent further rust. Get all those gears in one pile and make a list to compare with the original set in the manual. Then get a length of threaded rod, two nuts and some flat washers to tie them all together in a set so they dont get lost.


Edited By Hopper on 05/03/2021 23:18:50

Hopper06/03/2021 00:51:25
5404 forum posts
131 photos

PS you will need to oil the countershaft bearings too. If they still have the oil nipples in place and you don't have an oil gun (DON'T grease them) you can unscrew the nipples and leave them out and add a few drops of oil to the holes and around the bearing ends repeatedly over a few days to let oil wick into the sintered Oilite bearings there. After that, add a couple drops to the holes everytime you use the lathe. New oil guns are available from Press Parts online. They are handy to flush oil through the carriage ways etc but not essential. You can do the same trick, remove the nipples and squirt oil under pressure into the hole from an oil can by jamming the nozzle up against the hole. Put the nipples back afterwards to keep swarf out. Plus you can oil it like any other lathe and just lay oil on the bed ways and feed screws etc and let it wick in.

Check your electric motor too. If its an older model there might be oil hole at each end to add a few drops of oil to the bearings. Most likely not though.

duncan webster06/03/2021 01:01:04
3141 forum posts
52 photos
Posted by derek hall 1 on 02/03/2021 07:56:58:

Welcome to the forum Tom.

There will be plenty of expertise on here to advise you, but please resist the temptation to take your lathe to peices to clean and paint it.......... you may do more damage and disturb critical settings that may take a while to realign.

I will leave it to others to help you, but pictures of the lathe would help us assess what is needed.

Regards to all


yes paint doesn't improve accuracy

derek hall 106/03/2021 07:39:47
148 forum posts true!!!

It always makes me smile when I read articles about renovating machine tools and more care and effort is taken in the paint work!

The machine tools ability to do the job in hand far exceeds the quality of the paint finish.

After all once you brush down all the swarf you just created with that old paint brush, that beautiful paint finish is now scratched by all that nasty swarf.

I prefer "" to painting.......I must must remember to say that to the wife when she wants some decorating done around the house!

Regards to all


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