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Taper angle/length for spindle handle lock?

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Dr_GMJN28/02/2021 15:59:22
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996 forum posts

All,

Im cobbling together a hand wheel for manually turning the ML7 chuck/spindle.

The internal diameter of the spindle is 16mm

I’ve turned some aluminium down to be a good fit in the bore, which engages to a length of 100mm.

My intention is to turn a taper in the end of it, with a correspondingly tapered steel or brass Plug in the end which can be drawn into the end locking the wheel in place.

Whats a good included taper angle and length of taper for this? I’m thinking about 20 degrees (top slide set to 10 degrees?

Thanks!

old mart28/02/2021 16:02:22
2829 forum posts
178 photos

The one I made was about 4 degrees, it is not critical at all. I just thought of the old style bicycle handlebar stem expander.

Dr_GMJN28/02/2021 16:10:20
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996 forum posts
Posted by old mart on 28/02/2021 16:02:22:

The one I made was about 4 degrees, it is not critical at all. I just thought of the old style bicycle handlebar stem expander.

Is that 4 degrees each side or 4 degrees Included?

Are there guidelines for the lengths of the longitudinal cuts?

Thanks.

Howard Lewis28/02/2021 16:18:53
4662 forum posts
10 photos

I used 20 degrees included angle, so that the tapers were not self gripping, and released when the drawbar was slackened.

This has worked well on at least three, if not four lathes.

Howard

Dr_GMJN28/02/2021 16:21:50
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996 forum posts
Posted by Howard Lewis on 28/02/2021 16:18:53:

I used 20 degrees included angle, so that the tapers were not self gripping, and released when the drawbar was slackened.

This has worked well on at least three, if not four lathes.

Howard

Thanks Howard. I’ve used 20, but thought I’d ask before making the plug. Because of the small diameter of the bar, it’ll only be the last 20mm or so of bar that will expand (not including any outward spring of the legs).

old mart28/02/2021 17:50:57
2829 forum posts
178 photos

As I said, the angle is not critical, you are only turning the spindle by hand, threading, most likely. I used the hand method to cut my first thread, a 1 3/4 X 8W for a chuck backplate. I have not needed it since as even if cutting to a shoulder, I just run the spindle in reverse and cut away from the chuck with a left handed tool.

I used 4 degrees a side.

Edited By old mart on 28/02/2021 17:51:59

Bo'sun28/02/2021 17:57:33
390 forum posts

Hello Dr,

I've just completed a winding handle for my WM250. Not sure what the angle was, but I used the bolt from a 16 dia x 145 (M12) "sleeve anchor".

Set the compound to skim the taper true. Then used the same setting to bore the internal taper for an expanding sleeve.

Hope that makes sense.

John Purdy28/02/2021 18:03:58
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262 forum posts
169 photos

I made mine, many years ago, basically to G H Thomas's design (in Model Engineers Workshop Manual) and it uses a taper of 20 degrees included. I only tighten it up with finger pressure and has worked well but occasionally slips if I'm asking too much of it, like tapping a 3/8" hole. I made the tommy bar in the end of the drawbar 1 3/4" log overall but it would be better if it was longer which would allow it to be tighten a little more The slits in mine are just over 2" long

John.

John Baron28/02/2021 19:55:47
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445 forum posts
180 photos

Hi Guys,

I made mine to the same G H Thomas design. But I used a steel tube and made the tapers on the lathe.

21022015-02.jpg

The brass collar is to stop it being pushed too far into the spindle, otherwise the wheel handle catches the gear cover.

21022015-05.jpg

A close up of the tapered nut. It is only threaded about halfway through. Since I only needed about 4 or 5 turns, I didn't see the point in going through the full length of the tapered nut.

Dr_GMJN28/02/2021 20:18:47
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996 forum posts

Thanks all!

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