B16 taper stuck in keyless chuck
|Tim Stevens||27/02/2021 18:34:08|
1411 forum posts
I hope this is an easy question to answer:
I need to change the MT2 adaptor in an all-steel keyless chuck to MT3. How do I remove the chuck from the B16 taper fitting adaptor?
I have taken several Jacobs and similar chucks apart, but this one has me beat.
20289 forum posts
Pair of chuck removal wedges will pop the chuck off the adaptor by breaking the grip of the B16 taper. Arc do them and I suspect they are available elsewhere too.
One I prepared earlier
Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2021 18:47:13
|Tim Stevens||27/02/2021 18:47:57|
1411 forum posts
Yes, I thought of that, but with an MT2 adapter the difference in diameter between the two tapers seems hardly man enough. But I will give it a go ... presuming that the ring with the grub screw does not need to be touched?
457 forum posts
I had a B16 keyless chuck that kept falling off its taper, a good warm up of the chuck itself with a heat gun expanded it enough to move slightly further up the taper clamping enough never to fall off again, a leather glove helps, it might be worth a try.
|old mart||27/02/2021 19:35:33|
|2850 forum posts|
Depending on the circumstances, would a MT2 to MT3 sleeve be viable?
|Martin Connelly||28/02/2021 10:44:49|
1691 forum posts
I have had to resort to cutting the chuck arbor in two and drilling the bulk of it out of the back of the chuck. This is not as bad as it sounds as the arbor is usually only surface hardened where the tapers have been ground. The arbors are quite easily bent if used on a large radial drill and the chucks they are attached to are swung into a firmly mounted vice. As a result of contractors doing this at work, replacing M4 or M5 to Jacobs taper arbors was on average a twice yearly job.
|707 forum posts|
If the Chuck has a through hole as mine has, I have put a short length of 6mm dia rod through the Chuck, gripping it lightly with the Chuck, then strike the end with a hammer. Mine came straight off, but then I had put it on in the first place by inserting it and just tapping the end of the mt on the wooden bench.
|33 forum posts|
If the chuck is a copy of Albrecht etc, the main knurled sleeve is in two parts with a thread between the tightening knurling, and the remainder. As supplied, it is not only invisible, but also very tight. However, if you make up hardwood or aluminium half shells to allow firm damage free gripping, it can be unscrewed.
Dismantling is then straight forward (but don’t loose balls), and there is through access to drive out the arbour.
|Tim Stevens||28/02/2021 15:21:31|
1411 forum posts
Success - and relying on the presence of the drawbar thread (so this won't work with a tang);
Screw in the longest bit of M10 you can lay hands on, followed by a heavy steel ring (I used a 50mm flat-belt pulley) which will go over the full length of the taper. Add a nut, and hold the assembly hanging from the nut. Lift the ring and drop it smartly over the taper so it smacks hard against the back of the chuck. Oh, yes, and put something soft like a pair of old TT marshals overalls on the floor below, so the falling chuck and ring don't make too much of a clatter.
Thanks for the comments - next time will be easier using wedges as the new fitting is MT3.
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