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Which adhesive to use

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Flywheel29/11/2020 13:59:12
27 forum posts

I have made a clutch for my ML7 as described in the June/July 1991 issue of MEW by Alan Buttolph and everything works fine and fits, but I have a problem in attaching the leather to the cone, I have used an epoxy adhesive as suggested in the article and when I put the cone in the lathe to skim to size the leather rips from the cone even when taking a very light cut with a very sharp tool.

The adhesive I am using is Evo stick epoxy metal adhesive and the leather is from a very good quality belt. also the cone is steel and not aluminium as per the plans, I also roughed up the surface of the cone before using the adhesive.

Any suggestions welcome

Clive Brown 129/11/2020 14:40:03
590 forum posts
23 photos

Hi, googling "Evo-stick metal epoxy" brings up only an epoxy putty, which might not have the best adhesive properties as it's really a filler. If that putty is the stuff you're using, I'd suggest changing to a proper epoxy adhesive, such as Araldite. Epoxy resin is hard to beat as an adhesive.

Edit, now found "Evo-stick 2 part epoxy", so above comment might be misguided.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/11/2020 14:44:06

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/11/2020 14:46:06

Derek Lane29/11/2020 14:50:02
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371 forum posts
77 photos

Have you tried This type of glue

Ady129/11/2020 14:57:41
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4138 forum posts
576 photos

pinkgrip?

leather is not really going to make a great clutch IMO, it's certainly traditional but surely there's a better modern man made solution

will place this question into the family braincell...

edit: according to googie a reinforcing compound on a woven surface using a phenolic resin mixture

So soak your leather in this goo and stick it to the backing plate... hmmm

Edited By Ady1 on 29/11/2020 15:06:46

old mart29/11/2020 16:07:20
2472 forum posts
169 photos

I would favour a slow cure epoxy, like traditional Araldite, not one of the 1 hour type. The leather would need to be sanded down on the glue side to attempt to remove any traces of dressing from the belt. Using leather from a belt that has been holding trousers up is risky, as they are dyed and treated with no regard to using them with glue in a future life. The metal would ideally be shot blasted with alumina to key it, but coarse abrasive papers will have to do for most people. Degreasing the metal before gluing is vital for adhesion. If the thickness was fairly even, then pieces glued on radially with gaps between them might not need any machining, just let them bed in with use.

John Haine29/11/2020 16:15:38
3531 forum posts
194 photos

Not sure about leather to metal but Gorilla Glue Clear is pretty good at most things.

john fletcher 129/11/2020 18:03:31
653 forum posts

When my friend and I made clutches for our Myfords lathes we used Evo stick impact adhesive with the smooth side of the leather to the aluminium. We didn't do any skimming left things as they were. Both of us found the clutch incline to slip, so I bought a block of Violin string resin, crushed it up a bit, then with the lathe running and the clutch partly open, I dribble some of the dust into the clutch/place. It's only needed one further application of resin after all the 29 years, can't believe it. Many thank Alan Burttolph you did a good job..

Don't seem to get such articles in MEW any more. I've re read my early collection from number one, it would appear that some of us just buy what ever we desire from PRC via ???. John

Dennis R29/11/2020 21:32:59
60 forum posts
15 photos

When I made mine probably 18 months ago, used Gorilla Glue Clear, no problems so far. Left the dressed belt side out gluing on the rougher side. Best lathe update I've ever done.

Dennis

Flywheel30/11/2020 07:40:40
27 forum posts

Many thanks to you all for the info advice and suggestions.

In reply to Clive, the adhesive I used I can confirm is Evo epoxy glue

I think the advice from John Fletcher is the way to go, after all the imoact adhesive has lasted 29 years ! I did obtain some violin rosin when I started the project in advice of something I read on this forum re the clutch. John have you not replaced the leather during the 29 years since you made the clutch?

Once again my thanks to you all that responded to my appeal

regards

Peter

John Rutzen30/11/2020 09:51:52
295 forum posts
16 photos

I'm not familiar with the myford clutch but the cone clutch i made for my Harrison is just steel to steel with a bit of grease on it. It doesn't slip and has worked fine for 20 years. Try it with no leather or lining.

Flywheel30/11/2020 10:03:20
27 forum posts

Thanks for that info John, and it's certainly worth a try, but it means me making a new cone because obviously the one I have made has a gap between the two mating surfaces for the leather, but if I can get hold of another lump of metal I will give it a go.

I believe that the Myford Super7 clutch is metal to metal, can anyone confirm this for me please?

Peter

Edited By Flywheel on 30/11/2020 10:04:04

Ady130/11/2020 11:44:24
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4138 forum posts
576 photos

That's a brilliant idea

drop in resin dust and use the heat friction to apply it onto the clutch surfaces

metal to metal sounds best though

Nick James30/11/2020 12:30:07
9 forum posts

Hi Peter,

My S7 has cast iron outer pulley with bronze inner cone. Had since it 1968 and no problems, just give it a smidge of oil from time to time. Since fitting an vf inverter recently, I rarely use the clutch.

Best regards.

Flywheel04/12/2020 13:52:34
27 forum posts

Many thanks for all the advice and info, I have used the Evo stick impact adhesive and am please to report that everything is is now assembled and the clutch is working fine

Regards

Peter

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