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Smart and Brown Sabel

General topic about my Sabel Lathe

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Jim Beagley02/07/2020 21:14:42
77 forum posts
41 photos

Lots of progress since getting the Southbend service kit.
worked until 3am this morning putting the gearbox and carriage back together and this is the result after a couple of hours tonight.

70862066-0b8a-45ca-b13a-151f8c147d7c.jpeg

it’s really coming together now and I’m loving the colour.
The felts are a bit of a ba****d to install but all done (hence 3am). Only the headstock to rebuild and she’ll be ready to rock and roll.

Looks well next to this weeks new addition to the shop....

566d48e2-13c7-49ac-a93d-dfd61199f172.jpeg

old mart03/07/2020 14:05:12
1829 forum posts
148 photos

When you fit the front and rear main bearings, there should be small pins to locate them and stop them from rotating. And to adjust them, the only way to be sure is with plenty of oil and run the machine at top speed to feel the temperature rise in the headstock casting where the bearings fit. You should start off so that there is about 0.001" movement when you lift each end in turn. Then very slowly tighten the bearings, and test the temperature. The temperature to aim for is just luke warm after 15-20 minutes running. Once the bearings have been adjusted, there should be no reason to touch them. The spindle can be removed without disturbing them. The museum's model A has been happy with semi synthetic 5W30 for years now, it gets oiled every day it is used.

old mart03/07/2020 14:05:13
1829 forum posts
148 photos

When you fit the front and rear main bearings, there should be small pins to locate them and stop them from rotating. And to adjust them, the only way to be sure is with plenty of oil and run the machine at top speed to feel the temperature rise in the headstock casting where the bearings fit. You should start off so that there is about 0.001" movement when you lift each end in turn. Then very slowly tighten the bearings, and test the temperature. The temperature to aim for is just luke warm after 15-20 minutes running. Once the bearings have been adjusted, there should be no reason to touch them. The spindle can be removed without disturbing them. The museum's model A has been happy with semi synthetic 5W30 for years now, it gets oiled every day it is used.

Jim Beagley03/07/2020 14:34:02
77 forum posts
41 photos

Hi Old Mart,
Thanks for the tip. I'm a little confuséd by this as my main shaft has machine cast iron bearings, and so the info about pins doesnt seem to apply.

Ive been fettling with the oiling wicks this morning, Hopefully I'll be able to fit the spindle etc this evening or tomorrow.

Jim

old mart03/07/2020 16:44:46
1829 forum posts
148 photos

Sorry,I thought that the bearings were similar to the model A ones. Are yours in halves with shimmed caps holding them?

Brian Wood03/07/2020 18:39:57
2205 forum posts
37 photos

Old Mart,

They are close down cast iron bearings, not lift off caps. It is though possible to set them very finely.

Jim

The oiling wicks can be held down with needles through the drain holes at the bottom of the bearings; it makes the job of inserting the spindle possible without trapping them as you slide it in from the front. It is still a fiddle to get it home successfully.

Regards Brian

Jim Beagley03/07/2020 20:41:12
77 forum posts
41 photos

So I’ve pretty much assembled the head stock.
Belts, covers, back gear, reversing tumbler, everything.
Turns out you cannot insert the bull gear locking pin into the gear face with the spindle in place.
Bah!

Jim Beagley03/07/2020 20:41:15
77 forum posts
41 photos

Double post. Double bah. 

Edited By Jim Beagley on 03/07/2020 20:42:13

old mart03/07/2020 21:21:49
1829 forum posts
148 photos

Nice to know that the bearings can be fine tuned. My comments on the general setting up still stand, its best to start very slightly slack, which was why I mentioned 0.001" movement, you should be able to get it a bit tighter than that before things start to heat up. The spindle should be easy to turn by hand using the chuck. I overdid the model A front bearing, it was getting hot after about 5 minutes. The bearings in that are bronze and tapered on the OD with nuts either side to adjust them. I havn't needed to touch them in the last couple of years. Now I know how, I can remove the spindle in ten minutes.

Edited By old mart on 03/07/2020 21:31:58

Jim Beagley03/07/2020 21:42:57
77 forum posts
41 photos

9127b58e-f4d6-4ae5-b204-453c60d3c824.jpeg
It’s fully assembled at last.
Still got to set bearing clearances (thanks for the suggestions Old Mart) and put the gearbox plate on. But mostly it’s finished.
found out the hard way that the bull gear pin cannot be inserted once the spindle is in place. Still, I got some practice putting the spindle in and out.
What do you think?

old mart03/07/2020 22:00:53
1829 forum posts
148 photos

I think you should ditch the milling attachment, you have a proper mill sitting next to the lathe.

Jim Beagley03/07/2020 22:44:58
77 forum posts
41 photos
Posted by old mart on 03/07/2020 22:00:53:

I think you should ditch the milling attachment, you have a proper mill sitting next to the lathe.

Haha. Good spot. I got the vertical slide before the mill. I’ll keep it for now

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