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EN1A or EN8 which is best for hot bending?

90 degree bends in 3/8" round bar

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Chris V24/05/2020 16:54:42
310 forum posts
42 photos

Good evening all,

I need to make a couple of tight 90 degree bends in 3/8" round steel bar.

Heat source to warm it up will have to be all I have, a couple of butane/propane mix gas lamps from the DIY store.

Out of the two, EN1A or EN8 which would be best to use, or is there nothing to speak of in it?

The parts are replacements for a turnbuckle tensioning device for bench countershaft. One end of each will be threaded, probably after bending.

countershaft turnbuckle b.jpg

countershaft turnbuckle.jpg


Edited By Chris V on 24/05/2020 17:16:33

Chris V24/05/2020 17:17:44
310 forum posts
42 photos

As I need to make them longer...

Thor 🇳🇴24/05/2020 17:35:36
1630 forum posts
46 photos

Hi Chris,

If the turnbuckle is for your lathe - as shown in your second photo - I doubt you need a medium carbon steel like EN8, it can't be a high stress situation? EN1A is a free-cutting steel so I guess it would be easier to thread. If you use EN8 let it cool slowly after bending to prevent hardening before threading.


not done it yet24/05/2020 17:51:15
6812 forum posts
20 photos

I suggest you only need to make one? The clockwise threaded one would be the better choice? Thread before bending? - Easier to fit the bar in the lathe for threading before bending. Threading too much and needing to shorten is far better than better, unless you are worried about aesthetics.🙂

vintage engineer24/05/2020 18:26:23
258 forum posts
1 photos

Either will be suitable. I would thread them first. And like Thor said just leave them to cool slowly so as not to induce any hardness.

Chris V24/05/2020 18:45:15
310 forum posts
42 photos

Thanks to all three of you.

Ok EN1A and I will thread it first. I did think of doing that initially but I am concerned when I put it in the vice hot to bend it will get marked/deformed. I guess I could make a split pinch block so at least I'm cramping with a round former, and maybe something similar for the free end to save marking that.

What the photos don't show is the threads have both been shortened and as I will be using a flat belt, possibly leather I want all the adjustment I can get to take up the stretch. Plus the other end of each where the holes are are not long enough to go through the castings and allow washer & split pin. Neither the turn-buckle, countershaft nor lever arm came with the lathe which explains why they don't quite fit. Had it not been for these reasons yes I would only be replacing one and yes the RH threaded one! (I found out why earlier today...££!)

Good aesthetics, yes of course! (-:



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