i have a model steam engine and need some help with it thanks
|miles norwood||22/04/2020 16:18:06|
|3 forum posts|
I have a model steam engine TE1A mamod steam tractor and having some problems with it, I believe it was last used about 10 years ago
here's a link to a short video of it spitting lots of water
after about 30 seconds it stopped spitting water and seemed like it was running fine (the flywheel was spinning ) but the engine did not travel, I think it leaks but are not sure, if anyone has any ideas please let me know.
I'm 15 and know nothing but trying to learn, any help would be appreciated
19512 forum posts
I think you are missing the belt that goes between the flywheel's hub and the rear wheel, not easy to see as most of the video is on the wrong side of the engine.
|miles norwood||22/04/2020 18:36:11|
|3 forum posts|
Ah OK, thank you
|Former Member||22/04/2020 18:37:55|
[This posting has been removed]
|Howard Lewis||22/04/2020 18:40:49|
|4102 forum posts|
From memory, the belt is a spring steel one. Like a long small diameter spring with the ends joined together.
A possible source of supply would the garter spring from a lip seal, as used on cars and engines. Possibly a local garage could find one for you.
Interesting maths exercise for you. Measure the length of the belt required. Then work out the diameter of the seal that would provide a replacement spring.
When in place, it should not be so tightly stretched that the coils start to open up appreciably, but just tight enough to transfer power from the Flywheel to the road wheel.
If the spring that you get is too long, it can be shortened. You need to find the joint and cut the spring just away from the the end that tapers, on the side that does not taper to a point. The bit of spring left over can then be unwound frond from the tapered end.
The other end can now be cut to right length. The join can be remade by twisting the cut end, so that it "unwinds" a little (But not so much that it stays unwound ) before putting it over the tapered end and letting it "screw itself onto the tapered end. Hopefully,, by now, you will have a suitable belt.
My memory of Mamod engines is that they tend to dribble water. As a boy, many years ago, I could never cure mine!
|martin perman||22/04/2020 18:46:45|
1920 forum posts
My parents bought me one nearly 50 years ago, it sits in my wardrobe, memory tells me it has to much water in it and when filling there is a screw in the end of the boiler to be removed so that when you fill the boiler via the safety valve the water will flow out off the end of the boiler from the screw hole, when it stops flowing its at the correct level.
Now I must get mine out and running
|miles norwood||22/04/2020 19:05:16|
|3 forum posts|
thank-you to everyone who has replied to my post, your help has been very useful and now I should be able to get my mamod up and running and maybe even a new paint job! once again, thank you!
|old mart||22/04/2020 22:07:34|
|2465 forum posts|
The filler/ safety valve in these Mamods should be tested before using it, someone should know what the actual pressure setting is. Back in the 60's, I came by one of their stationary engines, and the top pressure seal was perished. I just cut a short bit of bike pump hose connector tube and fitted it in place. I am lucky not to have been killed or maimed by the boiler exploding.
|Nigel Graham 2||22/04/2020 23:09:55|
|913 forum posts|
As I recall the Mamod safety-valve is not adjustable, but was factory-set by its design, so all you can do is ensure it lifts. It might possible to ensure it is not seized by manipulating it by hand, cold and off the boiler.
Any club boiler-testers here who know the right pressure for these?
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