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How do I drill this hole

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Oldiron04/04/2020 16:22:02
414 forum posts
22 photos
Posted by JasonB on 03/04/2020 20:16:19:
Posted by Jeff Dayman on 03/04/2020 19:59:31:

I'm going to suggest the lathe for this job....................... bolted down to the carriage's flat top. ............ Long series extension drill in the tailstock for the drilling,

How does the drill rotate?

Probably should read Headstock.


Tony Pratt 104/04/2020 17:09:52
1098 forum posts
3 photos
Posted by Howard Lewis on 04/04/2020 15:44:17:

+1 for undersize drill from each end, mounted in a four Jaw chuck, follewed by boring right through in one operation.

Probably a D bit to finished size.


Good luck with boring through a 71/2" long hole with a 5/16" diameter boring bar.


old mart04/04/2020 18:59:20
1512 forum posts
136 photos

Mick B1 has the best method to bore it accurately. A clean up skim on each end will allow it to be accurately aligned. The fixed steady, if you have one will hold the outboard end true, and enable recentring to give a good start for the drill. Start the hole with the shortest drill, or a solid carbide one and progress to longer drills. I would still drill from either end to a size slightly bigger than the axel which is going in, and drill a counterbore at each end for the axel bushes.

Old School04/04/2020 19:08:46
323 forum posts
26 photos

The ends cannot be skimmed up on the side you cannot see there is a bracket for part of the suspension also I don’t have a steady for the lathe. So a non starter.

Its going in the mill

Mick B104/04/2020 19:37:41
1540 forum posts
83 photos
Posted by Old School on 04/04/2020 19:08:46:

The ends cannot be skimmed up on the side you cannot see there is a bracket for part of the suspension also I don’t have a steady for the lathe. So a non starter.

Its going in the mill


Not fair!!!! cryingcryingwink

Oh, go on - have it your way.... laugh

Edited By Mick B1 on 04/04/2020 20:01:15

Former Member04/04/2020 20:11:06

[This posting has been removed]

old mart04/04/2020 21:41:22
1512 forum posts
136 photos

Mill it is then, unfortunately. To get the piece mounted dead vertical is the first hurdle to cross. I would try to get hold of a block of aluminium, or two smaller blocks which could be milled for the ends of the casting to sit on. Maybe 2 blocks with holes for it to fit in. If the holes matched, the blocks could be attached to an angle plate and adjusted until the job was vertical.

JasonB05/04/2020 06:56:26
17821 forum posts
1948 photos
1 articles

If you are going to make a cradle to hold it that could just as easily be mounted on the lathe's cross slide as on an angle plate and would make it easier to pull the drill in and out to clear swarf as the carrage can be moved faster than raising the mills head.

Kiwi Bloke05/04/2020 10:26:24
398 forum posts
1 photos

The suspension brackets certainly limit your options. Pity, because Mick B1's suggested method was better than mine, I think. However the option of using the lathe as an horizontal borer remains. Surely a set-up on the boring table (cross slide) should be more rigid than a skyscraper on the milling table. There's so many ways to skin a cat...

As Bill Chugg suggests, please could you post pix of your chosen set-up? You've got us on tenterhooks.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 05/04/2020 10:30:57

Bazyle05/04/2020 11:09:10
5130 forum posts
199 photos

The op has decided on his method but here are a few ideas for the next problem.
Please make sure full information is given at the start.
A perfectly adequate fixed steady can be made out of wood and some brass screws.
If an item that needs support from a steady is not round it can be set in a metal sleeve using hot melt glue or even epoxy filler if thickly coated with wax for later release of the filler.
When a deep hole absolutely has to be drilled from one end it helps to rotate both job and drill ie holding in the chuck and using a toolpost spindle or a method of rotating a tailstock drill chuck.

Former Member05/04/2020 12:05:32

[This posting has been removed]

Les Jones 105/04/2020 12:49:42
2121 forum posts
146 photos

Would it not be easier to have the bearings in the wheels and the axle fixed. If it was done that way the hole would not need to be so precise. It could be clamped in position with grub screws. Also if it was to be a working model the wheels should not be locked together.


Old School05/04/2020 14:53:07
323 forum posts
26 photos

Les Jones, It will be a working model and yes the driven wheels are on a fixed axle, it’s a tether car and runs in a circle about 60 feet diameter. The lack of a differential does not appear to cause a problem it been done this way for around 70 years and speeds are now in excess of 200mph.


Circlip05/04/2020 15:26:44
1086 forum posts

On another forum, trying to identify an electric motor type and the possible connection combination from a photo in the first posting, partially showing the spec plate was eventually solved after five pages and sixty three "Mine's bigger than yours" suppositions by the inclusion of a second photo clearly showing not only the original volts/current spec but also THE MANUFACTURERS LOGO and motor TYPE REFERANCE, despite further photo shot request back on page one.

Back on page one, first entry, we have a photo of the axle casting. After various suggestions of how to achieve a solution, one suggestion is discounted by the O/P telling, "you can't do that because there's something on the other side of the casting you can't see, and I obviously can't be bothered to show at the first posting with an opposite side photo."

FCS will those giving a countdown conundrum at least give ALL the letters to brain sucking problems before shooting us down with "Ahh but you can't do that BECAUSE - - - - "

Regards Ian.

Les Jones 105/04/2020 17:12:57
2121 forum posts
146 photos

As the circle is 60' diameter i agree that the wheels are on the same axle does not matter. I am confused as it is a fully functional replica car how you are going to drive the axle. Are you going to machine out the diff housing and use bevel gears so the drive system is similar to the original or is the drive via spur gears or belt to a point close to a wheel ? If it is the second method how can it be considered a replica ?


JasonB05/04/2020 17:28:32
17821 forum posts
1948 photos
1 articles

Would also help if people read what info has been given "a solid axle with a bevel gear"

Replica of  a period tether car not a replica of an actual car.

Edited By JasonB on 05/04/2020 17:30:26

Les Jones 105/04/2020 17:39:53
2121 forum posts
146 photos

Sorry for missing those points.


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