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Myford ML7 headstock diameter

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Paul Smith 3719/02/2020 22:45:29
66 forum posts

Anybody got a Myford ml7 that can tell me the internal diameter of the headstock shaft? Or what’s the biggest round bar that will pass through the chuck and out of the side of the machine. Thanks for your help, cheers Pauly

Steviegtr19/02/2020 22:50:37
840 forum posts
191 photos

I have the super 7 but think they are the same. The tapered end of a 2MT is the size. Unfortunately it is one of the Achilles heals of the Myford.


Edited By Steviegtr on 19/02/2020 22:52:44

Grindstone Cowboy20/02/2020 00:28:29
217 forum posts
18 photos

This thread may prove useful.

Neil Lickfold20/02/2020 06:01:24
586 forum posts
102 photos

less than 5/8 of an inch is how my S7 came, so most likely the 19/32. I have since made a 16 mm carbide tipped reamer and pushed that through the spindle. I did bore it first for the 1st 20 or so mm past the taper of the MT2 when the 10mm starts. I really should have made the reamer 16.2mm oe so to allow for metric bar. I can get 5/8 bar through no trouble, and straight slightly under sized 16mm bar bar stock at a push.

Neil L

Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 07:46:05
66 forum posts

The reason for the post was I’ve bought a metric ML10 . But to my dismay I tried to put some 16mm bar thru the chuck but found it wouldn’t go. So I measured it and found it to be 15.7 or thereabouts. I was going to check the chuck end but can’t get the chuck off at the moment. I may have to make a Mercedes star style external key to remove the chuck via the jaws and tap it round. So it sounds like because of the mt2 taper they are both the same size. I’d thought of upgrading to a ml7 but aside from the longer bed I doubt there’s much to gain. Cheers Pauly

Mike Poole20/02/2020 08:29:34
2446 forum posts
53 photos

The downside of overboring the Myford spindle is that the morse taper starts to get very short, depending on what you may need to mount this could start to be a problem. Even the standard bore does nick a little bit of the morse taper. I suppose now that many of us have a milling machine the usefulness of mounting live tooling in the headstock has rather diminished and there are workarounds that get over the problem.


Hopper20/02/2020 10:26:51
4166 forum posts
89 photos

The ML7 spindle bore is 19/32" or 15.1mm.

The time-honoured workaround is to use a fixed steady to support larger diameter jobs that are held by the other end in the chuck. EG:


So a large bore spindle is a nicety rather than a necessity.

Edited By Hopper on 20/02/2020 10:27:35

Edited By Hopper on 20/02/2020 10:47:34

Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 10:55:00
66 forum posts

I thought of doing that ,but the axle I was making was 16mm dia and 500 mm long so wouldn’t go on the bed.I bought a pair of ball raced wheels with a 16mm bore, then bought some 16mm round to mount the wheels, trouble was the bar came up at 16.25 mm. And I couldn’t machine off .25mm

Hopper20/02/2020 11:08:51
4166 forum posts
89 photos

Ah yes. That's when the extra length of the ML7 could be handy. Or you get real creative about machining down one half then flipping it end for end and doing the other half. Still leaves the two end noggins to be cut off though.

Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 11:11:45
66 forum posts

So is there anywhere that makes a headstock spindle for the ML10 without the Morse taper and thus giving a bigger bore size

Clive Brown 120/02/2020 11:15:28
359 forum posts
9 photos

My first lathe, a well-used 3 1/2" Grayson, had a 19/32" spindle bore which could be irksome. I put a 5/8" drill down it. This gave a useful improvement and I never saw any downside. The 2MT still gripped well if needed

Howard Lewis20/02/2020 11:33:22
2932 forum posts
2 photos

The 2MT bore in the mandrel was the main reason that my ML7 went to a new home.

Opening up the bore will slightly decrease the strength and increase the flexibility of the spindle.

If you are prepared to accept this; do it!


Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 12:57:47
66 forum posts

What did you replace it with?

Mike Poole20/02/2020 12:59:05
2446 forum posts
53 photos

I would leave the spindle and get familiar with using the fixed steady, the next job along will almost certainly be bigger than the spindle hole no matter how far you dare to push it. Even lathes with large holes have a steady for the job that is too big. If you find that you need the steady too often then perhaps it’s time to change the lathe for one with a bigger bore but one day you will need the steady.


JasonB20/02/2020 13:16:42
17323 forum posts
1865 photos
1 articles

Long job like that can be mounted on the cross slide, vertical slide or even held in the toolpost if big enough and then just use a boring head in the spindle or make shift tool holder to reduce the diameter of the end.

Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 13:21:40
66 forum posts

I’ve never seen a boring head. I’ll look that up. Ta

Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 13:37:29
66 forum posts


Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 13:40:16
66 forum posts




Howard Lewis20/02/2020 16:10:11
2932 forum posts
2 photos

Paul Smith 3,

With retirement looming, the original plan was to replace the ML7 with a Super 7 Sigma.

Very many will be horrified to know that having learned the cost of a Myford Super 7 Sigma, with 4MT mandrel, gearbox, chucks and steadies but incapable of power cross feed, I bought a far eastern product.

My purchase was an Engineers ToolRoom BL12 - 24, which is a Warco BH600 / Chester Craftsman lookalike.

It was delivered, complete with VFD, Chucks, and Steadies, with induction hardened bedways, and a separate power for both axes, as well as the leadscrew, for a quarter of the cost of the S7 Sigma.

So far, it. has served me well, with only a few early life minor problems.

It has been fitted with a shop made Four way rear toolpost, and gearbox input gear which halves the minimum feed rate.

Like so many lathes, once acquired, it is unlikely to be changed; not in my lifetime!

Probably an overkill for most of my work, but it dies all that I need.


Paul Smith 3720/02/2020 16:22:22
66 forum posts

Thanks for the reply I’ll have a read up !

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