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The Workshop Progress Thread 2020

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mechman4807/05/2020 13:41:42
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2665 forum posts
412 photos

A little more progress on my beam engine, machined up crankcase bearing housing & bearing..

24.crank shaft bearing housing & brg (1).jpg

24.crank shaft bearing housing & brg (2).jpg

slowlee, slowlee catchee monkee. face 18

George.

mechman4807/05/2020 17:57:13
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More of my beam engine, components completed being assembled for fit..

25. completed component assembled (2).jpg

25. completed component assembled (4).jpg

It's getting there..

George.

JasonB11/05/2020 16:27:08
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Some of the finishing touches to the Filer & Stowell included the cylinder cleading, I went for the type quite often seen on American engines that have a serices of recessed grooves.

Cut on the SX2.7 as I have a 6mm Weldon type colder for that which made it easier to see that I was doing with the 2mm cutter.

Also made some oilers, had to make the tube first from some 6mm perspex sheet, does not polish up quite as well as Acrylic rod but will do the job.

And I have made a start on the governor

 

Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2020 16:28:07

duncan webster11/05/2020 16:29:17
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2599 forum posts
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How do you collect doe snot? wink I'll get my coat!

JasonB11/05/2020 16:57:28
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You read too quicklysmile p

Roderick Jenkins11/05/2020 17:49:48
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Baroque guitars have very ornate sound holes, usually made from layers of parchment. This is my simpler attempt using the engineering tools to hand. I drew the design up in CAD and used the Denford/Sherline mill (now converted to Mach 3) to profile the wood frame - a piece of hard maple.

bg rose 1.jpg

I cut to 2mm deep using a 1mm diameter carbide 2 flute mill in four passes. The spindle only goes to 2400 rpm but it seems to cut cleanly at 300mm/min. I used my drum sander to thin the job until the pattern was clear.

I printed the "parchment" pattern on to card and made some punches out of silver steel with 2, 3 and 4mm diameter holes. This was a practice go to see if the edifice could be assembled using superglue. Hats off to those guys who make wonderful engineering models from card.

bg rose 2.jpg

This is the result which will be glued into the sound hole from underneath.

bg rose 3.jpg

I'm reasonably happy with it, I don't seem to have much flair for a more artistic design. I'm going to get the 10,000 rpm pulleys for the mill since I think I will be using small tools most of the time

I hope this is of minor interest,

Stay well,

Rod

Howard Lewis11/05/2020 18:10:59
3288 forum posts
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Fantastic work, Rod!

Both in programming the machinery and the execution.

Not for the heavy handed like me!

Howard

mechman4811/05/2020 18:27:10
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2665 forum posts
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Super intricate work Rod. Like Howard's comment; I have hands that compare well with shovels & fingers that resemble stub drills..face 20

George.

mechman4811/05/2020 18:45:02
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2665 forum posts
412 photos

A bit more on my beam engine, cylinder components assembled & tried for fit...

26.cylinder assy tried for fit (1).jpg

26.cylinder assy tried for fit (2).jpg

The blue colour is just the plastic covering on the aluminium plate which will peel off once I get to cleaning & painting stage.

George.

JasonB13/05/2020 17:19:07
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Some more progress on the Governor and steam valve for the F&S engine which is based on a Gardner governor, not fully working but I'll be happy if my balls spin round and fly out. Small top bevel is 12T and 5.6mm OD, vertical is 18T to get the speed up.

Ron Laden13/05/2020 17:32:38
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1939 forum posts
383 photos

Wow, that is small Jason but the top bevel 12T at 5.6mm that is tiny, it would be getting into magnifying glass territory for my eyes.

Impressive.

Anthony Knights22/05/2020 03:59:56
396 forum posts
174 photos

Slotting tool is now finished . It's to my own design which I sort of made up as I went along, so I don't know how it performs.slotting=tool.jpg

Nick Clarke 326/05/2020 18:31:37
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779 forum posts
27 photos

Spent this afternoon making a crank handle for the SC3 lathe. As I was putting the 6mm threads on the rod I thought that it would be a sight less fiddling trying to wind the chuck round avoiding the saddle, toolpost etc if I had a crank handle for the lathe.

Oh...……..

Well I have one now.

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 26/05/2020 18:32:00

Nick Clarke 326/05/2020 18:35:04
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779 forum posts
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Posted by JasonB on 13/05/2020 17:19:07:

Some more progress on the Governor and steam valve for the F&S engine which is based on a Gardner governor, not fully working but I'll be happy if my balls spin round and fly out. Small top bevel is 12T and 5.6mm OD, vertical is 18T to get the speed up.

I have always been impressed by your work, but this takes the biscuit. Super bit of engineering.

And, reading your post again, I have no doubt you would be happy if ………. smiley

JasonB26/05/2020 18:59:13
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Thank's Nick, got it more or less back together today after painting and although my balls did go round and swing out they were a little erratic. Think I need to get a second Mamod drive belt as it is a bit too much of a stretch for a standard one. Only time I used the collet chuck on the lathe was to hold the 3/16" stainless balls to drill the 1mm holes. Did use collets in the spin indexer for some jobs like making the 2mm A/F M1.2 nuts you can see.

But pleased that it seems to be running OK at the moment and need to resist the temptation to play with it when I should be working on the base. Just resting on the 1-2-3 blocks and less than 5psi showing on the comp regulator and no ball action!

Iain Downs26/05/2020 20:25:03
653 forum posts
570 photos

This is more about progress in the workshop rather than workshop progress.

I've stolen this idea from Blondihacks (I think), but when I saw it I knew it was for me. One challenge with a bigger mill is that you get blue hot chips coming of and pelting you and the surroundings. Not nice.

protective screens.jpg

So the idea is to drop some magnets (the small pill shaped super ones you can get pretty much anywhere - 10mm dia x 5mm height) into a block and glue some plastic to it. The clear plastic may be a bit of a challenge these days, but I have a bunch 'in stock'.

My first attempt was a 3D printed block and I tried to locate the magnets with green loctite. It didn't stick. Don't know why. Next was an aluminium block. Also didn't stick.

Cleaned out the ally block and superglued. It worked! I've also put a bit of masking tape on surface of the magnets which I hope will let me clean swarf off without seriously affecting the grab.

Not actually tried milling with them yet, but I'm confident. I've a few more to make (including one to go on the vice) which will be 3D Printed.

Iain

Ron Laden27/05/2020 07:40:03
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1939 forum posts
383 photos
Posted by JasonB on 26/05/2020 18:59:13:

Thank's Nick, got it more or less back together today after painting and although my balls did go round and swing out they were a little erratic. Think I need to get a second Mamod drive belt as it is a bit too much of a stretch for a standard one. Only time I used the collet chuck on the lathe was to hold the 3/16" stainless balls to drill the 1mm holes. Did use collets in the spin indexer for some jobs like making the 2mm A/F M1.2 nuts you can see.

But pleased that it seems to be running OK at the moment and need to resist the temptation to play with it when I should be working on the base. Just resting on the 1-2-3 blocks and less than 5psi showing on the comp regulator and no ball action!

That Jason is impressive what a lovely little engine, different with detail and interest where ever you look, well done Sir. It runs sweetly to very smooth slow running at the bottom end and built to your usual hign standard.

Great stuff.

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/05/2020 07:41:49

Ron Laden27/05/2020 17:52:54
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1939 forum posts
383 photos
Posted by JasonB on 11/05/2020 16:27:08:

Some of the finishing touches to the Filer & Stowell included the cylinder cleading, I went for the type quite often seen on American engines that have a serices of recessed grooves.

Cut on the SX2.7 as I have a 6mm Weldon type colder for that which made it easier to see that I was doing with the 2mm cutter.

Also made some oilers, had to make the tube first from some 6mm perspex sheet, does not polish up quite as well as Acrylic rod but will do the job.

And I have made a start on the governor

Edited By JasonB on 11/05/2020 16:28:07

I missed this post Jason, the American style cylinder cleading I think very impressive. Looking at your set up for machining is it a piece of thin walled tubing which after you cut the grooves was spilt into two halves as I can see the seam on the top of the cylinder. Also there is an infill piece between the brass parts that looks a bit tricky to produce but it all fits together nicely and certainly looks the part.

Ron

JasonB27/05/2020 18:32:29
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It was a piece of aluminium scaffold tube that I took a bit off inside and out so it ended up with a 1mm wall thickness. I left a slightly wider space between the two top slots so that when cut with a slitting saw the spacing would be right. It looks even better now with the paint on it though I did take the easy route and not use scale screws to hold it on as they would likely have been less than 0.5mm dia. The small infill was bent up from a piece of sheet, shaped to fit then held on the mandrel in the photo to mill the slots with two other small pieces equally spaced so it would hold.

Ron Laden27/05/2020 19:11:43
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1939 forum posts
383 photos

Nice work Jason some of the engine parts must be bordering on what I would consider micro engineering, your making of the M1.2 nuts for the governor for instance plus the tiny bevel gears. Shows the attention to detail and you must have a fair amount of patience, certainly pays off though in the end result.

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