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The Workshop Progress Thread 2020

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JasonB24/09/2020 10:31:18
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18909 forum posts
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First one I have seen with a built up cylinder, off to a good start.

Jim Nic24/09/2020 10:59:30
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271 forum posts
163 photos

An interesting method of construction for sure, well thought out and a good use of materials to hand.

For me an attractive aspect of model engineering is "doing it my way" while sticking to the basic design dimensions.

I look forward to updates on this project.

Jim

iNf24/09/2020 13:51:19
32 forum posts
32 photos

to make the frame I managed to buy a generic boring head from Amazon complete with carbide boring bars for just over £30. As has been discussed on the forum before, these usually have incorrect clearances, so a quick lick with a 'dedicated tool and cutter grinder' sorted that out wink

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Then on to the real work!

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Edited By JasonB on 24/09/2020 13:57:26

iNf24/09/2020 13:54:25
32 forum posts
32 photos

Then shaping the sides

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Edited By JasonB on 24/09/2020 13:58:00

Edited By JasonB on 24/09/2020 13:58:17

iNf24/09/2020 19:54:56
32 forum posts
32 photos

Roughing out the conrod, using a centre set back in the 4jaw chuck and using the jaws as a drive dog. Thanks to Stew Hart for that tip on his potty mill build thread.

 

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Then a bit of a lash up to try and get a smooth finish to the taper using the top slide!

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Edited By iNf on 24/09/2020 19:55:38

Edited By JasonB on 24/09/2020 19:56:22

iNf25/09/2020 09:29:31
32 forum posts
32 photos

Next the piston was machined from aluminium bar and when that was cut off the cylinder cover was cut from the same bar, sorry only 1 photo of that. The bolt holes were drilled in the cover using coordinates from zeus and then spotted through onto the cylinder

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iNf25/09/2020 13:57:10
32 forum posts
32 photos

Machining some phosphor bronze bar into square for the bearing, using a holder used for sharpening end mills and a square for indexing.

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I didn't have much luck soldering the 2 halves together for boring out and turning. So ended up using a couple of keep plates and bolting together then machining in the 4 jaw.

iNf25/09/2020 19:09:21
32 forum posts
32 photos

Boring out the eccentrics in the 3 jaw using a packing piece. I bored out bearings etc as I was using imperial 3/8 stock from an old printer as the crank rather than 10mm and I didn't have a decent 3/8 reamer. Also used 5mm rod from another printer for the valves as I knew my ability to get a good finish turning down stock that long to 4mm was severely limited!

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iNf26/09/2020 14:32:19
32 forum posts
32 photos

I had intended to make the flywheels out of some old 0.5kg cast iron weights that I had. This turned out to be a non starter as they were so hard that trying to machine them had my ml7 tieing itself in knots and it quickly became apparent that something expensive or painful was going to happen ( probably both! ) So enter 'plan B'. The only stock I had of a suitable size was some inch thick flat bar, so...

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Some creative bandsaw work to fit a nearly 4" square into a 3.5" saw. Boy was I glad that I had it!

Then work in progress.

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iNf27/09/2020 13:12:18
32 forum posts
32 photos

Having drilled and tapped the various holes in the cylinder, I decided that I wasn't happy with the fillet around the cylinder boss, so out with the filler and a bit of sanding.

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iNf27/09/2020 21:05:43
32 forum posts
32 photos

Having made the crankshaft as per Jason's build thread but before I cut out the middle and pinned it, I did a trial fit with the bearings in the frame only to find it didn't fit! After several 'oh dear me's' I realised I had made the journal 1mm too wide indecision I think that I had been concentrating so hard on getting a good fit in the crank web I had neglected the width. OK I thought, as I had used threadlock to fit it together not having any of the 'proper' stuff , a bit of heat and a gentle tap will soon have it apart..... no chance. Resorting to the hot air gun and bashing with an aluminium mallet so hard the end of the crank resembled a well used cold chisel! After rectifying the problem I realised that I wouldn't need to pin the crank when completed as it wasn't going to come apart anytime soon!

A picture of the crankshaft during a trial fit/run.

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peak427/09/2020 21:19:45
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1203 forum posts
143 photos

A few home made 250 size toolholders for the quick release post on my Warco GH1330;

Quick Change Toolholders
Four newly completed toolholders to add to my collection for the Big Warco GH1330.
I used most of the machines in the shop on these; Roughed out on the shaper as one block, with the dovetails finished on the Centec mill. Knurled nuts done on the big Warco and finished on the 720 (Myford clone), Toolholders sawn to length on the Denbigh power hacksaw and finished with a combination of shaper and surface grinder.
Final finish with gunsmith's blue.
Not really cost effective to make these, as the originals are about £25 each, but my time's free and it saves getting bored. Also the knurling tool won't fit in the shorter standard toolholder size, such as those three at the front, and as far as I'm aware, you can't buy ones with the through holes to take boring bars.

Bill

iNf27/09/2020 22:17:52
32 forum posts
32 photos

The main components ready for painting.

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iNf28/09/2020 08:31:02
32 forum posts
32 photos

Finally the finished engine. It's not perfect but I'm quite pleased for a first attempt.

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Hopefully here is a link to the engine running on an old fridge compressor, including some slo/mo

**LINK**

JasonB28/09/2020 10:55:13
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18909 forum posts
2082 photos
1 articles

That turned out very nicely and runs well too.

Jim Nic28/09/2020 14:34:37
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271 forum posts
163 photos

Congratulations. Another fine example of Jason's Jowitt and with a result as good as that on your first "real engine" perhaps an encouragement to others to give it a go.

Jim

Oldiron28/09/2020 18:21:53
531 forum posts
22 photos
Posted by peak4 on 27/09/2020 21:19:45:

A few home made 250 size toolholders for the quick release post on my Warco GH1330;

Quick Change Toolholders
Four newly completed toolholders to add to my col

lection for the Big Warco GH133. Also the knurling tool won't fit in the shorter standard toolholder size, such as those three at the front, and as far as I'm aware, you can't buy ones with the through holes to take boring bars.

Bill

Nice job Bill. I have made 9 of these 250 style holders for myself. I made 5 of mine so they will take 20mm tools. Instead of the std 12mm lip at the bottom I made it 7mm. Never had a problem with the smaller dimension.

The boring bar holder is 250-204. It has a 25mm ID hole and a 25 OD x 19mm ID split sleeve for smaller bars. I also made split sleeves for 16 & 12mm bars.

regards

iNf28/09/2020 19:28:31
32 forum posts
32 photos

Thanks for the comments Jason and Jim. I probably wouldn't have attempted it without Jason's build thread to guide me. I certainly learned a few things along the way. I have no idea how Jason can produce such stunning engines so quickly!

Thanks

Dave

Steviegtr28/09/2020 20:51:58
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1515 forum posts
163 photos

Made 2 chuck spacers to help with ring making. Little magnets attached.

Steve.

chuck spacers 1.jpg

chuck spacers 2.jpg

peak428/09/2020 21:12:43
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1203 forum posts
143 photos
Posted by Oldiron on 28/09/2020 18:21:53:

Nice job Bill. I have made 9 of these 250 style holders for myself. I made 5 of mine so they will take 20mm tools. Instead of the std 12mm lip at the bottom I made it 7mm. Never had a problem with the smaller dimension.

The boring bar holder is 250-204. It has a 25mm ID hole and a 25 OD x 19mm ID split sleeve for smaller bars. I also made split sleeves for 16 & 12mm bars.

regards

Cheers, The original incentive was the knurling tool holder, as I was using an extended nose one I'd made previously.
The Boxford shaper has an 8" stroke, so it wasn't much harder to make four, adding up to a 7½" block.
In my case, I do have a 202 holder with the groove in the bottom housing a larger boring bar; these two are 7 & 12mm.
I don't have any other larger tooling, so these will suffice for the time being, unless I add a couple of dedicated parting tool holders.

Bill

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