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Arc euro micro drill adaptor

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Keith Wyles02/12/2019 16:10:51
33 forum posts

Has anyone used one of these please. Interested in any feedback. Thinking of one to use in my pillar drill to give a more sensetive feed. Seems a cheaper alternative to a dremel type drill in a stand. Any thought welcome.

SillyOldDuffer02/12/2019 16:40:17
5915 forum posts
1280 photos

These you mean?

I use mine as a convertor for holding small drills in an ER32 collet chuck rather than expecting the knurled wheel to be brilliant in hand-pressure sensitive mode. I doubt the device would work quite as well as a proper sensitive pillar drill running at high speed, but I've never used one.

Ketan's device is effective for what I want - a way of holding sub 2mm drills in a conventional milling machine quill. And, my mill performs better as a drill than my pillar drill, especially with small diameter drills. With care I don't break that many but it's not unknown.

I plan to buy a Dremel stand next time I do a PCB. The milling machine is a bit clumsy for doing lots of tiny holes.


mechman4802/12/2019 16:42:50
2688 forum posts
421 photos

I have one; I have used it occasionally on brass / aluminium, on mild steel I've had to push harder to get it to drill effectively but that is down to the lesser effect of the bearing & knurled wheel not having the leverage of a rack & pinion handle if you get my drift, but it does work. If you think about it there could be a way to cobble up some sort of lever action but I would be leary of using it on mild steel, stick to brass / aluminium it works ok.


p.s S.O.D. posted as I was typing... I have also used mine to tap small holes in brass & CI … 2mm <.

Edited By mechman48 on 02/12/2019 16:45:38

Keith Wyles03/12/2019 08:32:36
33 forum posts

Thanks both. It is mainly to use in brass, so looks a possibility. Also tap small BA threads in brass, so does look a possibilty.

Martin King 203/12/2019 09:35:21
686 forum posts
260 photos

Hi, I use mine all the time in brass to drill small oil can spout tips.

Cheers, Martin

IanT03/12/2019 10:23:41
1545 forum posts
144 photos

I also have one Keith.

Mine has quite a lot of 'slop' when even partially extended, the shaft not being a very good fit in the barrel. So I'm afraid accurate drilling or spotting (especially with small drills) will be a bit of a problem.

I've now moved its small drill chuck over to an MT2 arbor to hold smaller drills - which is also useful when I need more 'headroom' than my larger 1/2" drill chucks allow. I may (one day) make a new barrel for it to give a close sliding fit to the shaft - together with a short operating arm to apply more pressure than I can do with just the knurled grip.

For holding small drills, I also use an Eclipse pin chuck. The 'micro drill adaptor' sleeve is 12mm diameter (PS it might be 1/2" - haven't checked) and will not fit ER16 collets (up to 10mm) - so cannot be used on my Taig ER16 head for instance or any other ER16 stuff I use.

So for the moment at least, it's going to stay in the drawer...




Edited By IanT on 03/12/2019 10:31:40

S.D.L.03/12/2019 10:30:50
218 forum posts
37 photos

If you want precision Albrecht do one but they are very spendy.


Nicholas Farr03/12/2019 12:14:22
2314 forum posts
1137 photos

Hi Keith, I have one, very good piece of kit. I don't have cause to use it very often, but I did use it yesterday in my mini milling machine, starting a 2.5mm tap in six holes in a piece of steel about 6mm thick, to insure that they were in line and there was no danger of the spring return on the mill suddenly pulling it up with the chance of busting the tap. I used my hand to turn the spindle though. However I have used it for drilling into steel and it worked OK for that also.

Regards Nick.

P.S. I held it in my collet chuck by the way.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 03/12/2019 12:15:44

JasonB03/12/2019 13:33:42
18296 forum posts
2024 photos
1 articles

It can be handy when drilling small holes in the lathe as it makes it easy to peck drill But I don't find there is much more in the way of sencitivity and as my 13mm ARC drill chuck will hold down to less than 0.5mm I tend to use that.The usual 10mm drill chuck in the mill goes down to 0.3 so don't bother on that.

You still have to be careful not to apply too much pressure to the knurled ring as it is easy to bow a fine drill bit like this 0.35mm one. I tend to start with the bit less than 1mm away from the work so any slop that may be there (not noticed much) will be minimised with the full engagement of the slide.

Keith Wyles03/12/2019 16:49:09
33 forum posts

Thanks for further comments all. Nearly bought one when the Model Engineers show was at the Yorkshire showground, some time ago now, but they were out of stock. It has been at the back of my mind since then, but I have never made the plunge. Really wanted to get my hands on one to see how good they were.

Oily Rag06/12/2019 20:09:13
112 forum posts
57 photos

I'll second 'IanT's' comment concerning the spindle to sleeve having too much 'slop'. I bought one of these items along with a small chuck to suit as I needed one to progress a job I had to get finished. The job was to make an 'in cylinder pressure sensor adaptor sleeve' which mounted internally a Kistler 1604a pressure sensor into a 8.5 mm sleeve which passed through a water jacket in a cylinder head. The sensor screwed into a 5mm thread internally at the base of the 100+mm long sleeve and connected to the combustion chamber via 3 ports drilled at an angle into the end of the sleeve. I had an order for 16 of these adaptor sleeves and they were needed 'yesterday'!

The sensitive drill unit needed a 15 micron plastic 'wrap' around the spindle to stop excessive slop. I was drilling three holes - 0.8mm, 1.0mm and 1.15mm after spoting the angle face with a 3mm end mill and then centre drilling to get an 'toe hold', the material was 318 stainless. I set it up in the mill and running with the high speed head at 8,000 rpm managed to drill them OK with the loss of only 1 drill (yes - you guessed it the 0.8mm one!). Apart from the 'slop', which the plastic 'wrap' cured (more or less!), my only other concern was with the bearing which after drilling all 48 holes got rather hot and a bit clanky. I actually made 51 holes as I had to produce a 'qualifying' sleeve for sign off of the order - purchase could not believe that a man in a shed could do what Kistler said would take them 12 weeks to do and that I could do it for half their price!

Some of the 'process' photos required by the customer:-




RMA06/12/2019 21:00:14
241 forum posts
4 photos

I've not seen these before. I have some small holes to drill and tap in bronze cylinders to fit the cladding on, would anyone advise using this bit of kit for that job? Thanks in advance

Oily Rag06/12/2019 21:55:27
112 forum posts
57 photos

As I said in my post above RMA - they do a job for a price but you need to be the judge of how good your other equipment is - high speed is the answer to drilling small holes, especially so when using carbide drills (I used 3mm shank drills with reduced sizes of 0.8, 1.0 and 1.15mm - I believe they are PCB drills). I was using my mill with its high speed head, the quill drive on the HSH is sensitive, but not sensitive enough for when you 'break through', that seemed to be the point where the drill would break and sure enough one broke, even with the Arc sensitive attachment. Be prepared to do some fettling on the shaft as the 'slop' on mine was excessive, and to be honest the drill chuck supplied by arc was not what I would deem a quality item. But all in all you only get what you pay for these days. Am Albrecht attachment is the way to go but as mentioned above they are costly and difficult to find. I have now bought one (an Albrecht) for future jobs like the one described here.

The job described above was in 318 stainless so all in all it will probably work for you on bronze.

JasonB07/12/2019 11:08:32
18296 forum posts
2024 photos
1 articles

Well I suppose something has to give when you are paying a 1/10th of the price for an ARC chuck over Albrecht though you do have the choice to buy something else as it is not supplied as a complete adaptor and chuck just what they suggest from their stock line. I also see Albrecht's sensative drill attachment is 16 times that of the ARC product which I expect is beyond most hobby users budgets or needs.

I find that spot or centre drilling is best done with a standard setup and then only use the adaptor for the fine drill which will locate into the spot hole even if there is a bit of play in the slide.

RMA, if you do get one then just watch for the bronze grabbing the drill which some people have issues with as you have less resistance to it being pulled in. As I said I regularly drill 0.8mm cross hole sin steel and stainless pins for 1/32" split pins and get enough feel from the mill's quill levers but I suppose a lot will depend on the individuals machine such as drilling in a mill with no quill where raising the table won't give much feedback.

RMA07/12/2019 11:52:51
241 forum posts
4 photos

Thanks for the pointers Jason, it's a job I'm not really looking forward to. I have a Centec 2A with the quill head and everything on that seems healthy. Might practice on some scrap when I get a chance. Of course Murphy's law will then operate.....

IanT07/12/2019 12:25:28
1545 forum posts
144 photos
Posted by JasonB on 07/12/2019 11:08:32:

I suppose a lot will depend on the individuals machine such as drilling in a mill with no quill where raising the table won't give much feedback.

Where drilling in a mill with no quill where raising the table won't give you ANY feedback/feel at all. The knees on horizonal mills are heavy old lumps (& need gearing to lift them) - so very good in some respects but a real pain in this particular one.




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