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Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start

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Herman van der Merwe22/06/2020 15:30:33
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158 forum posts

However, one is cracked. Will this be an issue?

Also, the numbers are slightly, instead of the 25/85/21 on the front, it says 25/70/21. From my understanding this means they are only rated to max of 70 degrees. Will this be an issue? Or should I send them back for being mislabeled?

Cracked is bad news.

Yes you need a rating of around 90C in the hot environment inside the steel case.

I would send these back ...

Richard Kirkman 122/06/2020 18:03:05
278 forum posts
663 photos

It's just the corner has been broken off, but it doesn't bother me so i'll leave it

Plus I don't have the facilities to braze.

I've asked to send back all the capacitors. The old ones still work within tolerance so I think I'll just leave it, especially since I found that the light issue was the switch. (then again I still haven't tested the new switch)

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Phil Whitley22/06/2020 21:00:24
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

File or grind the cracked area into two straight lines and it will be much less noticable. The bench centres hade a small piece missing at the extreme end of one of the slots, I cut it square with a cutting disk then filed it up and painted it up the the ground edge, it now looks like it was made like that!

Phil.

Richard Kirkman 125/06/2020 11:44:02
278 forum posts
663 photos

Good advice Phil, it blends a little better now

Also, I purchased a litre of the tractol 729 etch primer, so i will be able to prime the cover. However, since I'll be spraying it, I want to get 4 parts from the lawnmower sprayed in it at the same time, so they still need stripping. One piece is a fan and is taking ages. I'll get it done eventually, but i've been tasked with refinishing a family friends G-plan table and chairs, and I agreed to look another friends lawnmower to get it working better. Who said lockdown needed to be boring...

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Phil Whitley28/06/2020 14:01:15
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

Neat!

Howard Lewis28/06/2020 17:23:33
3388 forum posts
2 photos

Richard,

A LONG time ago, I learned to beware of the person asking "Can you just...) They think it's a ten minute job. With luck, it will only take you ten hours! Their "loose bolt" often is a stripped thread in a cracked casting with too little meat to do anything decent about it!

But, you've found some of those already?

Howard

Richard Kirkman 128/06/2020 19:15:09
278 forum posts
663 photos

Actually Howard, this time it turned out to be quite simple. I just had to take it to pieces, sharpen the mower, and adjust it to make it work better. Although I did have to make new rollers for the front as well. But, it was still more work than described as usual!

I've had a fun day. I decided it was time to finish removing all of the red oxide primer from the aluminium, then I thought I'd do a test patch to see how thinly I could paint on the self-etching primer.

I found the self-etching primer to be quite easy to brush on thinly. The picture makes it look thicker than it is. I was very careful. It was meant to be grey, but almost had a sort of blue tinge to it

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Then I let it dry for a couple of hours as instructed by the datasheet

Then painted with the red oxide primer!

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I also gave the green wheels their final coat of paint today, so they can now be reassembled and put somewhere else. More space for lathe disassembly!

The G plan table is arriving tomorrow for refinishing, so that will be a priority, It might take me a day or two, I'll have spare time while the varnish is drying. However, once the primer is dry I will sand it down and repaint. I'm still going to paint the inside of the cover red/orange, I honestly cannot wait to get it painted to see how it looks.

Apart from that, other parts on the lathe are looking very tempting to take off and strip

I've managed to get myself a well used interchangeable Pryor steel type, so I'll be able to fancy up the forward-reverse sign!

If anyone wants to see some proper painting, Hermans thread is getting even more interesting

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 28/06/2020 19:16:10

Phil Whitley29/06/2020 19:46:49
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

Ruchard, can you post the link to Hermans rebuild, I have lost it!

Phil

Richard Kirkman 129/06/2020 19:51:08
278 forum posts
663 photos

HERMANS REBUILD

Last week's video was great Phil. Very interesting with the test bar and how the accuracies stacked with the rotation of the taper sleeve. I'm interested to see the bearings come out too!

Also, the original LED turned up today, it says it was posted on the 17th of April, so it only took 2 months and 12 days to come. Pretty quick delivery from Royal Fail

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 29/06/2020 19:57:52

Phil Whitley29/06/2020 20:06:23
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

Thanks Richard! I am going to blue up the spindle taper, and test the bush, and then do the reverse, to see if I can get a better fit, and more concentricity, it will be in next weeks video, I was going to start it today, but didn't get to the workshop till 1-30, so I tidied up and put the labels on the welder, and cut the wood for the bottle shelf. I did have a brief look and found that by fitting a MT3 live centre into the bush, I could manage to turn it gently for enough time to get a print before it grabbed the taper, and even without blue, it did mark up a few high spots, so I am hopefull that improvement can be made! Not going tomorrow, as it is annual service and mot day for the car, So I am going to spend the day applying for planning permission for a flue that has been on my workshop for years, but unfortunately, I can't prove it! Apparently, my neighbour has complained! Such is life.

Phil

Herman van der Merwe30/06/2020 07:45:29
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158 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 29/06/2020 19:46:49:

Ruchard, can you post the link to Hermans rebuild, I have lost it!

Phil

Here is a better thread (a duplicate) with more discussions.

Herman van der Merwe30/06/2020 07:48:45
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158 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 29/06/2020 20:06:23:

So I am going to spend the day applying for planning permission for a flue that has been on my workshop for years, but unfortunately, I can't prove it! Apparently, my neighbour has complained! Such is life.

Phil

Very easy to prove @Phil. Just go back in history on Google Earth and show the sat photo of when the flue was not there and then the one with a date when it first shows on GE.

Even more accurate is the GIS models for each council available on the internet. Just ask a GIS operator at the council to assist if you cannot find your council's models on the net.

Phil Whitley30/06/2020 11:29:07
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

Hi Herman, thanks for that, I have already got proof of the flues existence in 2011 from a google earth image which shows the flue, in it's previous position, however, sometime around 2013, I moved it forward towards the front of the building by about 8 feet, but infortunately I have no proof of this date. I have however found further information that indicated what I have done is part of "permitted development" The GIS info is interesting, and I am doing research on that as I write this. Unfortunately I doubt one department of our local council would provide evidence willingly to prove another department wrong! I shall continue and see what I can find on GIS!

Phil

Herman van der Merwe30/06/2020 12:49:02
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158 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 30/06/2020 11:29:07:

Hi Herman, thanks for that, I have already got proof of the flues existence in 2011 from a google earth image which shows the flue, in it's previous position, however, sometime around 2013, I moved it forward towards the front of the building by about 8 feet, but infortunately I have no proof of this date. I have however found further information that indicated what I have done is part of "permitted development" The GIS info is interesting, and I am doing research on that as I write this. Unfortunately I doubt one department of our local council would provide evidence willingly to prove another department wrong! I shall continue and see what I can find on GIS!

Phil

Surely you must have bought some hardware for this move? A receipt is fine.

No need to tell the one department why you need it. If you have hassle, ask an architect friend to request the data. If you PM me your address, I should be able to check for you as well from this side of the round blue dot.

Herman van der Merwe30/06/2020 12:50:04
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158 forum posts

Sorry for the off topic @Richard. I only realised it now!!

Richard Kirkman 104/07/2020 17:04:01
278 forum posts
663 photos

First coat of red/orange on the inside. Not original, but it's how I want to do it! It'll be hidden most of the time. I will be painting the lip grey so the orange should be hidden when the cover is installed

Just a very thin coat, but I'll build it up

I've not been very productive since I've been working on finishing the g plan table as the owners need their table back as soon as possible.

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Richard Kirkman 105/07/2020 19:24:00
278 forum posts
663 photos

2nd thin coat today really brought the colour out! I'll probably leave it there and spray the rest.

Perhaps the lathe needs some racing stripes so it'll go faster...

It's looking so good it's almost a shame its going to be hidden. I'm sure some people out there will disagree, but I like it.

Phil, great video this week. I'll have to test my lathe in a similar fashion once its back together. I'll be interested to see if my spindle bore has any dings like yours. How do you plan to test the tailstock? And, could you have got a mt5 reamer to clean out the spindle bore instead?(Obviously not as cheap as scraping it, very expensive actually, but would it be better?)

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Phil Whitley05/07/2020 21:45:16
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1222 forum posts
146 photos

Hi Richard, Thanks for the nice words re the video, I like the way they are going, what they lack in finesse, they make up for in content!

The Colchester spindle bore is about morse 4.5 if I remember it correctly, so no reamers available. Manufacturers tend to make the bore of the spindle as large as possible in order to accomodate the largest possible diameter through the spindle, thus producing a more versatile machine, the taper size is considered as less important, so they stick in what fits conveniently and produce a bush to reduce it to a morse size, usually the same as the one in the tailstock. The spindle taper is short, and large diameter, easy to mess it up with a reamer! To test the tailstock, I will put my best centre in it, put the test bar in the spincle bush and dicker about with it till I get the least run out I can manage, then I will put the clock gauge on the top of the test bar, and gently wind the centre into the drilled centre in the test bar, and note if the clock goes up or down, and by how much. When I have the height right, put the clock guage on the side of the test bar, and do the same, adjusting the tailstock side to side to get it centred, then check the height again.

Because of the nature of the dings, they tend to have a low spot in the middle, and high metal all around, which picks up the blue very well. With a scraper and a bit of care, it is possible to just remove the blued high area, and leave the rest of the bore untouched. When you have two high areas, they would tend to push the reamer to one side or the other, as you would be very unlikely get the reamer into a position where the dings were both in the flutes, and turning the reamer would remove both high spots simultaeneously., especially in a short large diameter taper. It was very surprising just how little metal needed to be removed from two tiny areas to produce an instant almost perfect fit. I was tempted to use some very fine valve grinding paste to finish off, but I resisted and just used some autobody polishing compound, which produced a lovely matt grey finish. Keep up the good work on the painting!

Phil

Richard Kirkman 106/07/2020 13:49:15
278 forum posts
663 photos

I don't have a spindle bush like yours Phil, are they hard to get/find?

You don't need to worry about finesse till you have thousands of subscribers, but that won't be long if you keep the content as good as it is!

New toy arrived this morning, only 4 days late thanks to my favorite royal mail.

It's had a hard life. The listing said it was from the 1950s. It's been snapped in half(or cracked) then welded back together. So I thought I would blend the welds with a bit of filling so it feels a bit nicer to use. I'll probably polish it a bit more and cold blue it later.

It hasn't come with a full set of letters, but I have probably 5 or 6 of ever number. I'll accumulate the letters I'm missing as I need them.

However, after some cleaning, I found that I have enough letters to spell FORWARD, so we're halfway there.

The imprint isn't currently even since there's still rust and crud on all of the letters so they're at slightly different heights. I'll sort that later too.

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It's going to look much better than F and R scrappily written in marker pen. Especially when on a nice brass plaque.

The table is very nearly finished, so almost time for some more stripping! (Or possibly back to lawnmowercrying)

john fletcher 106/07/2020 16:22:21
603 forum posts

Hello Richard, a friend of mine died recently and another friend and me have been clearing his workshop. There is a LOT of measuring equipment and other materials / tooling available in Scarborough. If interested at all, send me a PM with a phone number or email address. John

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