By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale Jan 24th

Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Richard Kirkman 103/06/2020 23:12:00
237 forum posts
512 photos
Posted by Herman van der Merwe on 03/06/2020 22:21:39:
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 03/06/2020 21:35:40:

The belts are almost definitely different lengths or not running right as they make a lot of noise and sound like they're hitting off each other. What is this chalk test?

You need a matched set of v-belts. If you do not have such you need to replace the belts with Nu-T link belts. I only run Nu-T Link belts on all my machines.

Chalk test - http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html

Thank you, I have read that page before but I don't remember reading that. The belts were supposedly matched but I'll do the chalk test tomorrow. Link belts are a possibility depending on the cost.

Swarf Maker04/06/2020 01:12:29
97 forum posts
4 photos

Unmatched belts can certainly cause some strange noises/vibrations/patterns in the finish. If you are experiencing any of these effects you could try operating with just a single belt. That is what I have done on both of my Master 2500 lathes and even though I work them hard, I don't spend all day taking huge cuts as would have perhaps been the case in a production environment. As a consequence all belt derived artifacts no longer arise, but a the same time there is no loss of transmitted power at the levels I require.

The removed belt becomes a spare for when it may be needed, although at least 10 years have gone by with no requirement!

Herman van der Merwe04/06/2020 09:23:52
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 29/05/2020 18:38:31:

here ya go Herman!

Any reason for the white backplate @Phil?

Phil Whitley04/06/2020 09:50:37
avatar
1206 forum posts
145 photos

Two reasons really Herman, it reflects the light into areas that would normally be in shadow, and it makes a good background for contrast with the job in the chuck. Also I didnt want to run out of green paint!

Phil

Herman van der Merwe04/06/2020 09:59:15
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 04/06/2020 09:50:37:

Two reasons really Herman, it reflects the light into areas that would normally be in shadow, and it makes a good background for contrast with the job in the chuck. Also I didnt want to run out of green paint!

Phil

Thanks @Phil, I thought as much. Maybe I must do the same ... enlightenedenlightened

Richard Kirkman 104/06/2020 19:26:02
237 forum posts
512 photos

I'm sure my background of a nice brick wall works perfectly too

I've had a very productive day. I finished some jewelry boxes, similar to the one I made for Phil, but with trays and sections. Then some castors arrived in the post so my bandsaw is now free to glide around the garage. Then onto lathe work...

I picked up some m8 bolts from Toolstation so I could work on getting the panel fixed in place properly

img_20200604_154759.jpg

Before I could turn the bolts down I had to put the starting lever back onto the lathe, so I took a picture of the back. Tracy finally got back to me today, so I will try to see if she can send me the starting level of her lathe so I have a spare if I mess this one up!

img_20200604_155924.jpg

img_20200604_160233.jpg

Chalk test, with a gold highlighter as I didn't have any chalk. The belts are not even. Can this be caused by a misaligned motor too?

Anyway, I'm running on 1 belt now and the lathe is much more peaceful. The link belts seemed a bit expensive when I can just use one belt, especially since I just bought these belts, although I do see the attraction.

img_20200604_162502.jpg

The bolts were screwed into a piece of aluminium I tapped, then faced, and turned to the dimensions I wanted.

Then I cut the slots just with a hacksaw

img_20200604_163956.jpg

img_20200604_165609.jpg

Then I prepared to drill and tap the lathe body.

img_20200604_170200.jpg

This went surprisingly well

img_20200604_170351.jpg

img_20200604_171442.jpg

Then I polished the bolts, gave them a brushed finish, then cold blued and oiled them.

img_20200604_184122.jpg

Fully installed, I'd say they look rather fitting.

They pull the panel in tight

img_20200604_184129.jpg

Then I tried the light and gave the panel a bit of a bang around to see if the light went off.

The light went off again

I've still fixed the stripped threads and improved the panel's fit, which I'd say is productive enough, but It annoyed me that it didn't fix it, so I started testing things

I cleaned the contacts of where the 2 legs for the lighting power leave the brass plug bit, that didn't help

I cleaned the surface of the slide lock fuses, that didn't help

Then I bypassed the switch to see if that made a difference, low and behold it stopped flickering when I banged it, I think. I could be completely wrong once again, I'll replace the switch and see.

I've ordered a toggle switch to replace it with since I found a picture and there should have been a toggle switch there anyway. I ordered it a couple of days ago actually, so this is currently working in my favour until it turns out to not be the issue.

Phil Whitley04/06/2020 19:39:38
avatar
1206 forum posts
145 photos

Belt problem could easily be a misaligned motor Richard, and I like those screws so much I am going to make some! I never realised that the hex bolts in mine were not original! For a better screwdriver slot, put two blades in your hacksaw at once, but of course, when you buy your milling machine, you will be able to use a slitting saw! Jewellry box? anyone can see that it is an instrument case!

Phil.

Edited By Phil Whitley on 04/06/2020 19:40:24

Richard Kirkman 104/06/2020 20:02:01
237 forum posts
512 photos

I'll have a look at playing with the alignment then, we'll see what happens

Phil, I don't know if they used hex bolts or not originally. I just wanted slot head screws since I could make the head whatever size I wanted. If I had a rotary broach, I would have made hex bolts

Two blades at once sounds like a good idea, although it wouldn't work for a junior hacksaw like I used. I'll definitely try that in the future!

img3.jpg

Definitely a toggle switch originally.Can't see if they're hex or slotted

Now you've said it, looks like there are plenty of compartments for various instruments!

_mg_5804.jpg

Phil Whitley04/06/2020 20:30:00
avatar
1206 forum posts
145 photos

I was going on the fact that the control panel has counterbores in it for cheese head screws, or allen bolts, of course, mine may not be the same!

Phil

Herman van der Merwe04/06/2020 21:39:24
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 04/06/2020 19:26:02

 

img_20200604_171442.jpg

Then I polished the bolts, gave them a brushed finish, then cold blued and oiled them.

What do you use to blue the steel? I normally use a mixture of phosphoric acid and copper sulphate. The reaction on the bolts looks similar.

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 04/06/2020 21:40:16

Herman van der Merwe04/06/2020 21:46:06
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 04/06/2020 20:30:00:

I was going on the fact that the control panel has counterbores in it for cheese head screws, or allen bolts, of course, mine may not be the same!

Phil

Mine has 5/16" cap screws installed @Phil.

Herman van der Merwe04/06/2020 21:50:59
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Phil Whitley on 04/06/2020 19:39:38:

Belt problem could easily be a misaligned motor Richard,

Agree, read this article on how to get the pulleys aligned.

http://www.lubsys.com/knowledge/knw_align05.htm

What I like about a Nu-T belt is that it never slips, does not have a direction, oil has no effect on it and when a link breaks you simply replace that link. These may be a tad expensive but in the long run they are just so much better in all aspects.

Richard Kirkman 104/06/2020 21:53:25
237 forum posts
512 photos

It's just 'Phillips Professional Cold Blue' but it's quite expensive, I'd like to be able to make my own. The web says its made from some sort of selenium dioxide

Phil, I had to look up what cheese head bolts were. But now I know what to search when I need bolts like that. Does your lathe have hex bolts in it? Because that really doesn't sound right?

Herman van der Merwe05/06/2020 14:30:05
avatar
128 forum posts

New sleeved wormbox, new cross-slide screw nut and all new sleeved bushes or replaced bushes for all shafts done.

Herman van der Merwe05/06/2020 15:06:07
avatar
128 forum posts

@Richard, my friend who made the sleeving etc did these mods to his tailstock.

Both our lathe's stop/start arms do not have pins and the arm screws into the shaft.

Richard Kirkman 105/06/2020 15:30:54
237 forum posts
512 photos

Very cool Herman, do you think you'll do something similar?

Also, how well did the windshield cleaner work on the sight glasses? I managed to clean mine a bit but they're not as clean as I'd like them to be

Herman van der Merwe05/06/2020 21:00:29
avatar
128 forum posts
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 05/06/2020 15:30:54:

Very cool Herman, do you think you'll do something similar?

Also, how well did the windshield cleaner work on the sight glasses? I managed to clean mine a bit but they're not as clean as I'd like them to be

Yes, I think that will be one of my first projects once the lathe is turning again. If that spanners falls again ...

It worked very well. I injected it, let it sit for an hour, blew it out with my compressed air (see?) and repeated. After two days, the sight glass is quite clear.

Richard Kirkman 106/06/2020 17:22:07
237 forum posts
512 photos

Looks like I'll try some windshield cleaner, but I'll have to blow it out using a straw with lung pressure!

Leaking once again.

The brake seemed to stop working so I thought I'd have a check. Low and behold, it's leaking.

It seems like its leaking from the outside of the seal, not the inside. So I need to take it out and put it back with gasket sealer or something? What do people recommend?

img_20200606_170830.jpg

img_20200606_170922.jpg

img_20200606_171045.jpg

Freddybear06/06/2020 17:54:47
avatar
27 forum posts
54 photos

I replaced the bearings and the seals. ( and I seem to remember there is a gasket at the rear too).

However. I did have the entire headstock stripped at the time. Also I was sick and tired of all the oil leaks everywhere

Incidentally, I also bored my wormbox true and bushed it. Action is much more positive now.

Phil Whitley06/06/2020 19:02:30
avatar
1206 forum posts
145 photos

Richard, clean the boss out with paint thinners, and use some fine surface car body filler, the one you add hardner to, not the stopper! flat it with fine abrasive paper, and put a smear of gasket cement over it when you fit the seal. silicon RTV will do it. I would recomend Red Hermetite or Hylomar, but under the VOS regs, they have been reformulated, and they are both crap!

Phil

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
cowells
Allendale Electronics
Warco
ChesterUK
EngineDIY
emcomachinetools
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest