|Nick M0NPH||01/11/2019 18:08:44|
22 forum posts
Good evening all
Having bought a new Chester DB10 at the show its being delivered next Tuesday and having the week off work to play !!
My question is never having had a DRO on a machine could you all give me some advice as to whether i should get one or not are they worth having i am thinking that they are at least easy to reed
some advice please
|Andrew Evans||01/11/2019 18:21:31|
|277 forum posts|
16877 forum posts
I can think of a lot of things you will need for the lathe before a DRO, if it were a mill I would be more tempted to fit a DRO sooner rather than later but not such a need on a lathe.
|Stuart Bridger||01/11/2019 18:41:50|
|381 forum posts|
I agree, I wouldn't be without a DRO on the mill, but quite happy without on the lathe. I can see the benefits, but not top of the list.
|343 forum posts|
Congrats on the new lathe.
A DRO is nice but not really as essential as it is on a mill. I would spend the money on some really good tools before a DRO. ie Collet holder + collets, a decent tool holder & tooling, dial test indicator, the list goes on & on.
|not done it yet||01/11/2019 19:04:09|
|3764 forum posts|
‘Many a slip twixt cup and lip’.
Personally, I would not have booked off the play time until it had been delivered (and installed). Good luck and I hope Chester see this post.
|old mart||01/11/2019 19:22:53|
|967 forum posts|
DRO,s are nice on a lathe, but not vital, I would spend the money on tooling. On a mill, not having a DRO is a great disadvantage.
|Ron Laden||01/11/2019 20:32:06|
1535 forum posts
Best thing I ever did was fit the mill with DRO,s but I dont feel the need to do the same with the lathe.
|Ian Skeldon 2||01/11/2019 20:35:37|
|414 forum posts|
I hope you enjoy playing with your new DB10, I have had one for a few years now and although it has done little work it does cut accurately (now) without a DRO.
There is some backlash in carriage and cross slide but not enough to cause any concern. I would suggest that you spend a bit of time making sure that it cuts absolutely parallel as it took me a couple of days to eliminate a very small taper, I also had to shim the compound slide as it was running downhill. All niggles that I put right and was then satisfied with the machines accuracy.
|257 forum posts|
Oh dear, I wouldn't have booked time off work if I was you. Chester don't keep their promises when it comes to delivery.
Anyway on a lighter note, I couldnt image using my mill without a DRO now. They are one of those items that after using you wonder how you ever did without.
|David George 1||02/11/2019 08:07:43|
1010 forum posts
I have had no problem with delivery from Chester. Both the Mill and the band saw ordered at different times 18 months apart, came when they said they would. In fact the mill came at about 8.00 am when I wasn't expecting it till a little later. In fact i mentioned that the motor was running hot on the band saw at the midlands show and he said ring support on Monday which I did and on Tuesday arrived a new motor. Any way as for a DRO on your lathe if you can afford it get one but if it means you scrimp on tooling and toolholding get that first I havn't got a DRO on my lathe at home evan after having one on the one I used when I was I gainful employment.
Edited By David George 1 on 02/11/2019 08:08:14
|1021 forum posts|
I put a DRO on both my lathes several years ago and wouldn't be without, although I do have a problem reading the handwheel dials due a vision problem so the big numbers on a DRO head are an absolute necessity for accurate work. If they are within budget and justifiable, then get one.
2530 forum posts
If you have the means for a lathe set up then get one; but as said in other posts not a necessity on the lathe, on the mill 'a super yes'. I use a couple of digital tyre gauges on my WM250V-F for saddle & X feed travel plus the tailstock travel, all using neodymium magnets to secure to machine.
|Howard Lewis||04/11/2019 22:41:13|
|2588 forum posts|
Climbing aboard my hobby horse, when you have the lathe in place, adjust the level from front to back at Headstock and tailstock ends to eliminate any twist in the bed.
Either use a sensitive level, or use the Myford method, (spelled out in Pages 27 and 28 of The Amateurs Workshop by Ian BrdleyL and similar books ) If the bed is twisted, long work is likely to be tapered.
Time spent in positioning and setting up the lathe will be amply repaid in the future.
|Nick M0NPH||05/11/2019 20:13:43|
22 forum posts
Well as promised my new lathe arrived today will get it set up tomorrow and put up some photos
so far could not have had any better service from Chester machine tools top marks
Edited By Nick Holden 1 on 05/11/2019 20:14:31
|martin perman||05/11/2019 20:38:41|
1709 forum posts
Well done that man, no more rugby to distract you, shame we lost, all you need now is something to make or repair like a Stationary engine.
|Nick M0NPH||05/11/2019 21:10:11|
22 forum posts
Yes Martin your right about the rugby
and i have a few things to make for my radio antenna mast like a rotator and a few other things to keep me going through the winter just until i pluck up courage to get myself an engine from the engineers emporium !!
|martin perman||05/11/2019 21:26:59|
1709 forum posts
I will PM my email to you for the odd chat.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.