|77 forum posts|
Hello - I recently bought this 6" x 1/2" socket extension with tommy bar hole.
(the brown circle is a just a piece of wooden dowel supporting the piece)
It's just too nice a thing to see scrapped.
|bill ellis||27/09/2019 09:41:06|
|51 forum posts|
It looks like the ball catch is just pressed into the square head. If it were me I would try and get the appropriate sized ball (and a spring) , insert into the hole and peen over the rim to lock the ball into place (that is how they are usually held in place). Might be fun getting the right combination of ball size and spring tension but could be worth a punt.
|462 forum posts|
It is probably a pressed in insert with a ball and spring, or was. I would press out the piece/socket you can see, get a ball that just slides into the bore of the socket. Then put a spring into the socket power fulll enough so that when you sit the ball on top you can press the ball into the socket. Now with the ball depressed punch the top with a centre punch to close up the bore to retain the ball and spring and press back in.
You can buy detents from various mechanical engineering sources such as WDS, but may not find you size.
|not done it yet||27/09/2019 10:01:59|
|3477 forum posts|
Replacing the ball and holder insert is the obvious way - press out and press in a new one. Unlikely to be available, but one never knows unless one asks. Option is to make or repair the insert or try to secure a suitably sized ball, with a spring behind, in that socket by peening the edge.
I think I might make a cone for a ball, parallel behind and threaded to take a screwed in cap that to be loctited in place. Ball may need drilling to make space for a spring.
Looking at it, there may be a sneaky suspicion that the hole in the extension is not parallel and may have compressed the insert sufficiently at that end, during insertion.
|Chris Evans 6||27/09/2019 10:02:10|
|1489 forum posts|
As HowardT says try WDS. If no luck these are a standard part from a lot of the Injection mould standard parts suppliers. Try a search for Hasco DME or DMS. They may only be available in metric sizes though,
Just another thought look at RDG they may stock them. Good luck.
|Clive Foster||27/09/2019 11:03:28|
|1867 forum posts|
Agree, make a new insert and press or loctite in. Don't over think it quick, easy and works is what you want. Frankly its faster to make summat than to search for anew one even if such were available.
As NDIY suggests easiest way is to drill from the back leaving a small rim to retain the ball. I'd drill until the drill just breaks through then machine the front back until the ball projection looks about right. My socket sets seem to have a bit ofer 1/3 rd diameter projection.
Screwed insert for the cap is engineering, loctite is practical!
If the bore in the extension is tapered drill it out parallel first.
3741 forum posts
Do it the easy way.
The ball popped out of that existing hole. So if you get a ball the same size, you should be able to pop it back in through the same sized hole. (After putting a spring out of a ball point pen into the hole first.) A tap with a brass drift might help pop the ball in through that hole
Then all you need to do is peen that hole closed a few thou to hold the ball in place. Centre pop marks would do the trick. The hardened end of a flat-nosed drift might make a tidier job. Or whatever you have to hand.
|Henry Brown||27/09/2019 11:25:43|
|58 forum posts|
Stating the obvious but cut the spring to length to be sure it doesn't bind!
|John Pace||27/09/2019 11:59:08|
|156 forum posts|
It is fairly obvious from the photo that a repair has already been
|2306 forum posts|
Whilst I agree that the common method of fitting these detent balls is into a blind hole followed by peening that may not be the case here. What is assumed to be a repair plug may in fact be original? Could not the plug be pushed out, a suitable ball and spring fitted and the plug pushed back in? This does of course assume that the face of the hole doesn’t need some kind of remedial work.
|2306 forum posts|
There is another option, it may never have had a ball in the first place. I’ve just been out to the garage to check and one of my Snap-On 6” extensions doesn’t have a ball but instead has a rounded pin. It has the same looking plug on the back. Similar to this:
Edited By Vic on 27/09/2019 12:39:42
|old mart||27/09/2019 16:31:03|
|721 forum posts|
Edited By old mart on 27/09/2019 16:33:34
685 forum posts
I have an identical King Dick socket set to yours contained in a blue painted steel case complete with sockets, also extension bar, sliding T bar and a very neat ratchet handle all of have the same arrangement for the retaining ball.
john Pace undoubtedly illustrated the general arrangement.
I have measured/estimated the ball as being 5/32" diameter - a standard size cycle bearing. I believe after comparing your very clear photos with my extension bar et.al. that you are only missing a spring and the 5/32" ball.
Once you have obtained replacements you will need to somehow peen the edges of the insert around the ball by compressing it into its housing and use a centre punch to slightly distort the rim of the housing. Use an automatic punch as it can be used one-handed - Mind your eyes when attempting this. The "factory" peening on my three bars is very neat obviously done in one operation using a form tool - simple but very hard to exactly replicate in the workshop.
You are quite correct this is a very nice and workmanlike socket set representing British Engineering at its best.
685 forum posts
Further to my previous post King Dick still exist in England as a maker of all sorts of spanners, socket etc. so it maybe worth giving them a call 01675 467 778 firstname.lastname@example.org
On closer examination the bearing on my extension bar to be held in by a brass ring.
Hope this helps.
|Howard Lewis||27/09/2019 17:57:43|
|2389 forum posts|
John Pace's drawing shows what used to be there.
If you can find a suitable spring and ball, fit them, and just stake the edge of the insert to retain the ball into place.
The spring loaded pin arrangement gives better retention, but the sockets have to have a through hole for it to fit into.
Removing the socket is less easy, since you need a small rod to press in the rod, to release the socket.
Can be a right PITA, definitely slows working.
IMHO stick with the ball and spring!
|Mike Poole||27/09/2019 18:06:43|
2147 forum posts
I think the pin type retainer is really for industrial tooling where the end tool needs replacing regularly whereas a mechanics type application needs changing often to suit each task.
|77 forum posts|
Sadly, I do not have a set - just the extension . I have always liked King Dick stuff - their spanners are beautifully fine and good to in the hand.
685 forum posts
I have sent you a PM. Please look out for the green INBOX flashing at the top of the page.
|119 forum posts|
oops! wrong thread
Edited By Farmboy on 27/09/2019 20:11:22
|Speedy Builder5||27/09/2019 20:50:57|
|1833 forum posts|
Guaranteed for life ?? My Elora set is.
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.