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My Faircut Lathe

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Michael Gilligan04/05/2020 14:48:06
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Posted by Andy Carlson on 08/04/2020 22:25:09:

Now that the weather is warming up I've bitten the bullet and sorted out the damaged spindle taper on my Faircut.

[…]

One other update - a couple of weeks back I made up some bushes to allow the cone pulley that I bought from Steve King to fit on my Picador countershaft. I still need something like a 7 or 8 inch vee pulley to replace that 4 step Picador one.

p1070316.jpg

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Looking good, Andy yes

Regarding the pulley ... What belt section do you need ?

MichaelG.

Andy Carlson05/05/2020 17:03:14
219 forum posts
90 photos
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 04/05/2020 14:48:06:
Posted by Andy Carlson on 08/04/2020 22:25:09:

Now that the weather is warming up I've bitten the bullet and sorted out the damaged spindle taper on my Faircut.

[…]

One other update - a couple of weeks back I made up some bushes to allow the cone pulley that I bought from Steve King to fit on my Picador countershaft. I still need something like a 7 or 8 inch vee pulley to replace that 4 step Picador one.

.

Looking good, Andy yes

Regarding the pulley ... What belt section do you need ?

MichaelG.

Hi Michael,

The belt measures 13mm on the thick side, so I assume it is an 'A'.

Regards, Andy

Andy Carlson05/05/2020 17:03:50
219 forum posts
90 photos
Posted by Jacob Leonidou on 04/05/2020 08:11:51:

Hi. I have the same lathe and I've been reading a lot in an effort to better understand it. Would you mind telling me what size tooling you use in the tool post? I can only fit 1/4" tooling with the compound slide fitted. Seems small for the lathe size.

Thanks

Hi Jacob,

Half inch tools seem about right for mine. I have what I think is the original tool holder which means that the tools sit directly on top of the compound slide.

I saw your photos and it looks like yours has a more conventional toolpost which raises the tool off the compound but will also make using deeper tools more problematic. On the plus side, you will find it a lot easier to change the toolpost angle than I do.

It would be nice to have the best of both worlds but I'm not sure how to do that without major modifications. I have seen a video on YouTube of a chap with a Faircut Junior who added a packing piece below both the head and tailstock to gain some more height.

Regards, Andy

Brian Morehen05/05/2020 19:45:01
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80 forum posts
6 photos

Hi Andy

So pleased your headstock taper has worked out O/k Have rechecked mine this must be original because I have Tapers that fit perfectly I believe these are Brown & Sharpe taper No5.., The leadscrew nut was identified by the person who helped me to set my lathe up when I first got it ,who stated that I needed a new nut , i will make you one when you take it apart. sadly this did not happen because he passed away . A very clever man who built his own lathe styled on a Drumond round bed but with two round beds and a adjustable headstock , Your tool holder is the same as mine 3/8 Tools fit perfectley. Very Pleased i needed some 6Ba Nuts llast week I made some without any problems .

All the best Bee M

Jacob Leonidou06/05/2020 10:23:51
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34 forum posts
28 photos

Hi Andy

You actually make a very good point, I can't believe it hadn't occurred to me. I might chop the bottom of that toolpost off as i dont fancy using 1/4 bits. Could explain why the cutting quality has been so bad. This entire time i was convinced my bearings were shot. Another option might be to do away with the compound slide altogether. That would free up another inch or so.

I saw something about shimming the stocks but it looks a bit complicated. I'd like to buy another toolpost but i'd have to find something without a bottom for the tool to rest on. I'm not even sure where to start with regards to sizing and whatnot.

I quite like what you've done with yours. Amazing what a good clean can do!

 

Thanks Jake

Edited By Jacob Leonidou on 06/05/2020 10:26:29

Brian Morehen06/05/2020 11:20:42
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80 forum posts
6 photos

Hi Jake

Re Toolpost for your Faircut Lathe I have a toolpost that fits onto the botton slide you could make one with a suitable block of solid steel and then mill out a suitable slot for larger size tools hope this make sense if not i will try and send Andy a pic to forward I have not complety got the nack for sending pics

Good Luck

Brian Morehen

Andy Carlson06/05/2020 13:49:15
219 forum posts
90 photos

Hi Jacob,

It could be the skinny tool but I'd look elsewhere before blaming that. I've had occasions when my Faircut has produced some rough finishes. In my case I'm pretty sure that the main problem was backlash in the compound - certainly the problem happened when the compound was set over at about 45 degrees. Setting it parallel with the cut and also tightening up the gibs a bit produced a good finish.

I think that all of my 'axes' have a decent helping of backlash. My cross slide has a little locking screw in the middle - in between a couple of the gib screws. I'm pretty sure this is also a user modification. It's handy for preventing cross slide movement when milling or turning (as opposed to facing). Mine is pretty awkward to use and I keep intending to get around to changing it for a socket headed screw so that I can use an Allen key on it.

As Brian says, mounting a taller toolpost on the cross slide is certainly an option. The Faircut compound gives you loads of positioning options but I often find it tricky to figure out where to put it so that nothing hits the tailstock, the work or the cross slide handwheel.

Brian Morehen06/05/2020 16:54:49
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80 forum posts
6 photos

Hi Andy.

Have the same on my cross slide in the shape of a T fitted in the centre of the gib plate great for locking the cross slide if you are doing any milling cuts Also cut a 3/8 whit thread in a piece of 3/8 Ali just for a trial run.

Regards Brian Morehen

Jacob Leonidou07/05/2020 07:57:06
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34 forum posts
28 photos
Posted by Brian Morehen on 06/05/2020 11:20:42:

Hi Jake

Re Toolpost for your Faircut Lathe I have a toolpost that fits onto the botton slide you could make one with a suitable block of solid steel and then mill out a suitable slot for larger size tools hope this make sense if not i will try and send Andy a pic to forward I have not complety got the nack for sending pics

Good Luck

Brian Morehen

Yes, I do understand. I actually have a piece of solid steel that i was going to mill into a 4-way toolpost. In the meantime i could gain a lot of height by cutting off the bottom part of the existing toolpost. I'd not seen one like Andy's, so it never occurred to me. I have a really nice brand new set of what i think is 3/4 tooling but i would have to do away with the compound slide for it to work.

Andy i think you're right about the backlash. I noticed that I have to apply constant feed pressure when facing as the cutter will move back if i don't. Is this what you mean?

Edited By Jacob Leonidou on 07/05/2020 07:57:48

Andy Carlson07/05/2020 08:19:08
219 forum posts
90 photos
Posted by Jacob Leonidou on 07/05/2020 07:57:06:Andy i think you're right about the backlash. I noticed that I have to apply constant feed pressure when facing as the cutter will move back if i don't. Is this what you mean?

Edited By Jacob Leonidou on 07/05/2020 07:57:48

Pretty much - for example when facing something that is rough the work can push the tool away from you, up to the limit of any backlash. If this happens then just keep going. As you make more cuts and the finish cleans up it should stop happening.

I don't want to teach you to suck eggs but if you are trying to work to a specific measurement or dial setting then you should always approach it from the same direction. If you inadvertently go past the point you need to back off by more than the backlash amount and then approach it again.

Michael Gilligan07/05/2020 11:56:17
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15673 forum posts
682 photos
Posted by Andy Carlson on 05/05/2020 17:03:14:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 04/05/2020 14:48:06:
Posted by Andy Carlson on 08/04/2020 22:25:09:

[…]

I still need something like a 7 or 8 inch vee pulley to replace that 4 step Picador one.

.

Regarding the pulley ... What belt section do you need ?

MichaelG.

Hi Michael,

The belt measures 13mm on the thick side, so I assume it is an 'A'.

Regards, Andy

.

Apologies for the delayed response, Andy ... I failed to notice your reply blush

I have ‘safely stored somewhere under the bench’ a very good quality pulley, which I think might be just what you need.

I will dig it out and post a photo later

MichaelG.

Andy Carlson07/05/2020 13:38:18
219 forum posts
90 photos
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/05/2020 11:56:17:

Apologies for the delayed response, Andy ... I failed to notice your reply blush

I have ‘safely stored somewhere under the bench’ a very good quality pulley, which I think might be just what you need.

I will dig it out and post a photo later

No worries Michael - thanks for the msg. When you find it can you please let me know the OD and I will check whether it will fit in without clouting the shed wall. I can mess with the flat belt length a bit which will help but it's all a bit of a squeeze.

Regards, Andy

Michael Gilligan07/05/2020 15:09:07
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15673 forum posts
682 photos

Here you go, Andy:

7e15cf5b-3cd9-4834-b6cf-c27eaa3216a2.jpeg

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01e5fa0d-7817-46f6-8cdc-01d233d3f189.jpeg

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Sorry about the colour balance [the close-up one is correct]

As you can see: according to the ‘Calibrated by IKEA’ tape, it’s just under 8” diameter

If you think it suitable, drop me a PM with your eMail address and perhaps a realistic offer

Note: it weighs a little over 2.1Kg so probably best to use Parcelforce or Hermes

MichaelG.

Andy Carlson23/05/2020 21:24:36
219 forum posts
90 photos

Some more modifications to the drive system over the past week or so. Until now I have avoided using the top speed on the flat belt pulleys because the vee belt pulleys did not have enough reduction meaning that I would be running the lathe at a higher speed than it was intended to use.

The (max 5 1/2 inch) Picador cone pulley has now been replaced with the 8 inch one bought from Michael Gilligan.

p1070397.jpg

The clamping arrangement needs some more work but I could only find one decently thick half inch washer in my various stashes today. I was hoping to get the motor pulley sorted today as well, but as usual, things took longer than expected... mainly shoving the countershaft bearings 25mm along the shaft to make everything line up again. I've moved them three times now and still have not found a good way to do it.

The previous addition of the cast iron flat belt cone pulley added a good deal of weight to the countershaft and resulted in some wobble. At least some of this was side to side so I added a diagonal strut made from some square tube recycled from an old lawn spreader. The wobble is now much reduced... a good thing since the cast iron 8 inch pulley has added more weight.

p1070400.jpg

A cut down plastic bucket had been a temporary (but long lived) solution to keep swarf out of the rather open air motor casing. I finally got around to making something less ugly. The cover is made from some 2mm acrylic that has been lurking in my garage for many years. Google searches turned up lots of info saying how easy it was to bend acrylic with a paint stripping heat gun. It's one of those things that turns out to be not quite so easy when you try it. I managed a reasonable one after destroying the first attempt but it's pretty uneven in places.

p1070401.jpg

There is still more to do... a quick test with the flat belt on the highest speed pulleys quickly showed that the belt was fouling the backgear shaft so I need to lower the countershaft a little... not by much though because otherwise it will not clear that new acrylic cover that I just made.

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