|Nathan Sharpe||24/07/2019 23:15:18|
|131 forum posts|
Just a general question. Has anyone used or thought of using a vehicle brake cylinder in their modelling? Nathan.
|Mike Poole||24/07/2019 23:34:03|
2115 forum posts
What did you have in mind?
852 forum posts
I used a Landrover one as a universal head to hold end mills for sharpening on my Clarkson..
A bit rough and ready, but sufficed for several years.
Next plan, when I get round to it, is to source a slightly larger clutch slave cylinder to make some top hat bushes to allow the use of my ex-brake slave cylinder end-mill collets with my larger proper universal head.
Edited By peak4 on 24/07/2019 23:44:21
|Nathan Sharpe||25/07/2019 00:04:56|
|131 forum posts|
Mike, I was thinking about a traction/steam cylinder. Much modification but is it possible? N
|Howard Lewis||25/07/2019 12:12:38|
|2341 forum posts|
A clutch slave cylinder will have a blank end and an inlet port at the other end. There may be enough "meat" to drill for ports to the valve face / bore at the other end. A drum brake slave cylinder is likely to be open at both ends with a central inlet port.
Hopefully, the material will be cast iron, rather than light alloy.
The material should be capable of withstanding far higher pressures than those seen in a model loco, or road engine.
|John MC||25/07/2019 12:33:09|
181 forum posts
Was there a design for a Robinson type hot air engine using a car brake cylinder described in ME some years ago?
May have used a beer can for the displacer, (I could be wrong about that).
|Ian S C||25/07/2019 15:46:57|
7447 forum posts
According to James G, Rizzo, there is a brand of drink in UK that uses a stainless steel can this is used in at least one of his engines that was featured in Model Engineer. Aluminium cans are far from ideal for use as displacers.
Ian S C
|3 forum posts|
I used a cast iron double-ended rear brake cylinder from a Hillman Avenger as the body for a baby VDH for my Norfolk (nee Flexispeed Meteor) 2" x 12" lathe. I had to cut off the bit that takes the brake pipe and bleed nipple and fix the rest to a piece of 1/4" plate from below. There might have been some packing to get the centre height right. I made a shouldered bush for the mandrel nose end to support a 1/2" mandrel and a double ended one, like a stud coupling with no threads, to support the index plunger at the other end.
That little lathe was also fitted up with a Cowell screw-cutting kit and a back-gear using gears from a scrap damper actuator. It did a lot of good work for me. All that stuff went when I traded up to a Myford.
I sometimes wish that I had kept it for the mantelpiece.
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