|Hans Mol||19/07/2019 16:09:56|
|4 forum posts|
Hi, I justpurchased an old hobbymat md65.
first of all it was full of debry, old grease etc and the chissle support did not move with the spindle so i took it apart to clean and oil.
now it is working again but i have some questions about it.
the tailstock and the chissle support came with a halfround piece of plastic which was inserted on top of the flat part of the round support bed. It is logic to me but not on any partsdrawing i found. Do i need them?
the chissle support can move a lot around the support bed,until it ends at the flatbar. I adjusted the alan screws according to the manual but it gives me two possibilities:
the support is very hard to move with the handwheel (almost impossible)
the support moves around the support bed
what on earth do i do wrong or is there maybe a part missing that prevents the support moving around the support bed.
|Brian G||19/07/2019 18:38:02|
|696 forum posts|
I'm sorry I cannot help, but an answer to your post brings it to the top and hopefully it will be seen by somebody who can help.
If you type "Hobbymat" into the Search This Site box at the top right of the page there are over 40 threads about Two of these are about adjustment to the "Saddle" or the "Carriage" which may answer your problem.
|Ian Johnson 1||19/07/2019 19:32:56|
|259 forum posts|
I have a Hobbymat MD65, not used it for years though! Without getting the lathe out of the shed I seem to remember there are locking screws to hold the carriage in place. Hobbymat used a weird locking system where the screw is tightened up to slacken the carriage and undone to tighten up the carriage.
If I get chance I'll dig out the Hobbymat and have a look
|Nicholas Farr||19/07/2019 20:44:35|
2262 forum posts
Hi Hans, you do need the half-round plastic pieces in both the carriage and the tailstock, they prevent them from turning on the flat topped lathe bed. They are not separate spare parts and should be physically retained in place. Take a look at the top link in Brian G's post and it should give you a good idea of what you need.
5212 forum posts
For adjusting both the saddle and the tailstock fit there are bolts that screw in from the back. One is a 'forcing screw' and pushes the joint apart and the other(s) pull it closed. You have to adjust these together in small increments. You cannot do one up tight and then correct its effect by using a big wrench on the other. It is difficult and fiddly to get smooth.
|Hans Mol||20/07/2019 10:12:21|
|4 forum posts|
thanks for the very fast reply but the problem is not solved yet. It is difficult to explain exactely what is the matter but i will try.
the support bar is a flattened round bar and on top on the flat bar is a plastic flattened round bar.
this makes the support bar round on the location of the support.
the hole in the support is round and can be tightened with the three screws.
but the support rotates around the support bar with the plastic about 10 degr. Left and right (looking from the back)
i should think the plastic has to be attaced to the support to prevent the rotation but i have no clou how.
when i tighten the support with the screws, it does not rotate anymore, but also it is impossible to move it.
should the plastic be connected to the support an how
or is there another way.
thanks for the help
|Nicholas Farr||20/07/2019 12:20:38|
2262 forum posts
Hi Hans, not quite sure what you are trying to say, but a plastic half round part should be fitted inside both the tailstock and the carriage, the full length of the bore. The photo below shows the tailstock, looking though the bore of the tailstock, showing the position of the plastic part. The tailstock is in the upside down position in this photo.
Below is the one in the carriage, in position. It is these that stop them rotating on the bed.
Hope this helps, but if not, a photo may help us to understand your problem.
Edited By Nicholas Farr on 20/07/2019 12:25:11
|Hans Mol||20/07/2019 12:50:43|
|4 forum posts|
all solved thans to this forum
i used the two pieces of plastic and drilled two holes in the support through the plastic.
then inserted 2 steel expandable pins in the support intomthe plastic.
also used some two component glue
this all prevented the rotation of the support around the bed
|Nicholas Farr||21/07/2019 09:05:46|
2262 forum posts
Hi Hans, I see, the same problem that Barry had. Pleased you've got it sorted.
|Mario Villa Durán||11/11/2019 06:19:54|
|1 forum posts|
Hi to all, I am new here, and this is my first posting.
Story is,...I just got a second hand Hobbymat MD65 in pretty new conditions, actually never use it, and why I know that ?, just because is covered with the original factory protection greese and the yellow paint has no scratches at all in any place.
Problem I have is very similar as Hans Mol had, but in my case the tailstock does not move even the fixing bolts are totally loose. I know the greese can be very dry between the half round plastic bar and the flatten steel round guide bar because it was "sleeping" for several years.
I was trying to release it by using WD40 and push it in both directions, but it is extremely stucked, and I have no idea how to let it soft as it must be, and also prevent transversal rotation as it happen to Hans.
I do not understand this system design. Firstly, it is very logic that the plastic part must be fixed to the tailstock bore to prevent tailstock rotation, and at the same time the tailstock must slide smoothly against the steel guide bar. It is a big surprise to me that Hans must install pins to prevent his rotation problem.
Even a micro tailstock rotation will let its center off the right working longitudinal axis, and so the lathe will be just a piece of metal, which is very dissapointed being the lathe a German made tool.
Any suggestion to smooth up the tailstock it will be very appreciated. Many thanks.
|112 forum posts|
There are two socket screws in the rear of the tailstock base - the one at the front (nearest the headstock) is a CLAMP screw. The one to nearest the centre of the base is a FORCING screw which presses against the side of the base, to open the gap and allow the tailstock to slide.
To free the tailstock, loosen the front clamp screw, and gently tighten the forcing screw until the tailstock is free - no more than one quarter of a turn, as there is danger of cracking the casting. As you say, it may be stuck to the bed with old grease.
To adjust the tailstock for use, slacken the back forcing screw, and gently tighten the front clamping screw until the tailstock is only just, but still firmly held. Then gradually tighten the back forcing screw until the tailstock can move. It may take some attempts to balance the forces correctly to achieve smooth movement with a new lathe, as the parts will need to bed in.
The carriage is adjusted in the same way - here, the FORCING screw is in the centre, and the CLAMP screws are at either side.
The plastic parts should already be fitted in your lathe, they are retained there by pins fitted during manufacture. I think Hans had to replace his because someone had removed them, it is not a modification that needs to be done.
These are very accurate lathes if adjusted correctly, as you have a brand new lathe it will be worth trying find a manual so that you can get the best results from it, and look online for further information.
kind regards D
|Michael Gilligan||11/11/2019 08:18:33|
15695 forum posts
Working on microscopes [which are notoriously troubled by hardened grease]:
I have found ‘PlusGas Formula A’ dismantling fluid to be much more effective than WD40
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