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Myford ML7 tailstock bore, and threading the barrel to fit a chuck

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Bandersnatch15/07/2019 18:27:19
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Posted by Mike Donnerstag on 15/07/2019 10:48:06:

Bandersnatch: I can't say I'm seriously rich, though the £100-odd ML7 headstocks seem to be going for on eBay looks reasonable if it's a solution to the stick-drilling problem.

.... "tailstocks" I assume....

If £100 is what they are going for these days then I'd agree it's not a bad price. When I was looking about 10 years ago I couldn't find anything better than 3-5 times that price.

Mike Donnerstag15/07/2019 18:46:16
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MichaelG/DC31k: I really like the idea of the clamp-on mounting that can be removed. Even if a register is loctited on and a thread cut into the barrel, it would still function as a tailstock, albeit with a limited movement.

Howard Lewis: I think you mean the one Harold Hall published. It's on his website: http://www.homews.co.uk/page75.html - certainly a possibility, though I'd still need that thread and register at the tailstock.

Can anyone tell me the overall length of the ML7 tailstock barrel? I'm asking because even though the butt end of a violin bow is straight, it is only straight for a certain length before the curve starts (known as the camber). It could be that the tailstock barrel might foul the bow stick due to its length. (Nothing is ever easy is it!)

 

Edited By Mike Donnerstag on 15/07/2019 18:48:26

Mike Donnerstag15/07/2019 19:19:04
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Also, can anyone tell me the maximum travel of the ML7 barrel?

DC31k15/07/2019 20:56:14
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Posted by Mike Donnerstag on 15/07/2019 19:19:04:

Also, can anyone tell me the maximum travel of the ML7 barrel?

9 1/2" long.

Overall travel is 3 1/2" but that starts 1/4" inside the casting. So 3 1/4" starting with barrel flush with casting.

You will lose some of this depending on how much you use gluing on the chuck.

duncan webster15/07/2019 23:00:29
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Posted by peak4 on 14/07/2019 20:17:50:

As an alternative and maybe cheaper/simpler method, how about a metal block bolted to the slots on the cross slide, and machined to hold the bow.
Either the block could be made to hold a chuck, or could just have a simple V at centre height with an appropriate clamp, a bit like a normal V block?

Bill

How about a chuck bolted to an angle plate which sits on the saddle. The angle plate has a hole in it to allow the bow to poke through. To align it put a bit of bar with a centre in the chuck and move the cross slide till a centre in the tailstock goes in, then lock the cross slide. First time you have to fiddle about to get the height right, but once bolted up that is fixed. Sounds a lot easier than modifying a tailstock, and will accommodate bigger bows

JasonB17/07/2019 06:58:25
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Bumping this one up as it's a sad day when not one of all those Myford owners can provide a couple of measurements.

Must all be too busy talking about electric cars and navigation at sea!

Michael Gilligan17/07/2019 07:22:51
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Posted by JasonB on 17/07/2019 06:58:25:

Bumping this one up as it's a sad day when not one of all those Myford owners can provide a couple of measurements.

Must all be too busy talking about electric cars and navigation at sea!

.

Noting, of course, that those with direct knowledge will be amongst the ML7 subset.

MichaelG.

Diogenes17/07/2019 08:04:45
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..I can see that I'm going to have to break my vow of non-participation, made on the basis that someone else always comes through in the end..

I have the information required, but do have to go to work first..

more anon..

Bandersnatch17/07/2019 15:36:40
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Didn't DC31k answer it?

Mike Donnerstag17/07/2019 15:44:57
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Yep - Thanks DC31k. That is all the information I should need to see if this is practical.

Many thanks all,

Mike

mark smith 2018/07/2019 16:29:47
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Mike i assume your making bows in the Hill way??? Much easier by handsmiley

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