By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale Jan 24th

Drilling cast iron - where did I go wrong?

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
JasonB17/05/2019 07:15:37
18296 forum posts
2024 photos
1 articles
Posted by John Haine on 16/05/2019 21:51:08:

I repeat - why do they make larger drills split point if they expect you to drill a pilot hole? I think there is model engineering dogma here.

Because the drill maker does not know if you have a small light machine that may not be able to drive the drill through without a pilot.

And before the "why buy a split point" it may well be that the user has a lathe that is capable of driving the drill but a mill/drill press that can't or it was part of a set and the dogma is ME's don't like spending on a drill bit if they already have one that size.

Ron Laden17/05/2019 12:53:35
1968 forum posts
390 photos

I know it would be considered wrong but I have always used standard drills for cap head counterbores and not a counterbore bit. Yes I know that the head is then sitting against an angled seat and not a flat/square one but I have never had any issues with loose or weak fixings. When the main aim is to fasten parts together whilst losing the head below the surface it works fine. Now if it was a heavy duty assembly I would probably think differently plus I have used an endmill when I have one that suits the size.

Edited By Ron Laden on 17/05/2019 12:58:22

Neil Wyatt17/05/2019 18:35:19
17970 forum posts
709 photos
77 articles

I don't think anyone has mentioned the tip of using a square of emery cloth, abrasive down, between drill and pilot hole.

It wears a matching taper on the hole before the drill cuts through, at which point it can now get a good start.

Clive Brown 117/05/2019 20:05:49
449 forum posts
14 photos
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 17/05/2019 18:35:19:

I don't think anyone has mentioned the tip of using a square of emery cloth, abrasive down, between drill and pilot hole.

I've heard that tip for drilling holes in sheet metal. It helps to give a circular hole rather than the triangular shape that can be made by ordinary chisel-point drills, especially in soft material such as aluminium.

Robin Graham18/05/2019 22:51:52
725 forum posts
178 photos

Thanks for replies and apologies for delay in responding. Having a bad back I volunteered to be a subject for student training at an osteopathy school. I'm not sure if that was a good idea - it certainly took my mind away from workshop activities though*.

I think the mistake I made was changing too many things at the same time. I have little experience with CI, less with split-point drills and none at all with using pilots for a hole of this size. Normally I'd just spot or centre drill and go straight in with 10.5 mm, but I'd read that one should creep up to the final diameter and that split-point drills were the bee's knees. I thought it might be a good test ground as I didn't need to be very accurate.

All I want to do is make some matching holes For M10 screws:



They don't match even after drilling the clearance holes to 11mm. I really didn't think this would be a problem but I have to accept that I fouled up somewhere (can't blame the machine or tools). I'll think on it and make a new set of holes at 45 degrees to the first go in the hope that it'll look like it was meant to be like that...


*Rib relocated - felt great at the time, agony afterwards.






Edited By Robin Graham on 18/05/2019 23:06:51

Edited By Robin Graham on 18/05/2019 23:18:57

Graham Rounce19/05/2019 22:24:22
28 forum posts
2 photos

Can you not clamp a piece of hardwood (20mm?) to the metal before starting the drilling?

Or instead of clamping, drill a couple of 4mm holes for bolts and nuts to keep it in place, if you don't mind an extra couple of holes?

Robin Graham20/05/2019 23:32:15
725 forum posts
178 photos

Thanks for your suggestion Graham. It was helpful in a way you probably didn't anticipate - I think the phrase 'if you don't mind an extra couple of holes' sparked a realisation that I'd gone about this project arse about face. For alignment it would have been easier to clamp or glue the pieces together and drill new holes through into the backplate. I have an irrational fear of modifying bought parts - in this case a D1-4 backplate- it creates a blind spot in my vision of how to make a thing. I need to get over that!.


Robin Graham21/05/2019 23:49:23
725 forum posts
178 photos

This is how it's ended up.

Following advice I tried drilling CI at the lowest speed (475 rpm) on my drill press without a pilot - just spotting with a 90 degree bit (wot I had) then going through with the 135 degree 10.5mm split point. No chatter and a neat hole. So learnt something there. Thanks.

I'd assumed that the misalignment was the result of my inexperience, but I wasn't too happy with working round the problem without understanding where I'd fouled up on my first attempt.

I put the pieces together again (they are prevented from moving against each other radially by a register), rotated them, and found that the holes actually line up well in one of the four possible orientations. Surely that can only happen if the holes in the bought backplate aren't at 90 degrees to each other. So maybe I didn't foul up, except by taking the accuracy of the commercial product as an article of faith.



Edited By Robin Graham on 21/05/2019 23:52:52

Edited By Robin Graham on 21/05/2019 23:57:25

Hopper22/05/2019 00:34:56
4648 forum posts
101 photos

Well done. You are learning the meaning of the old saying that a skilled tradesman is not one who never makes mistakes, but one who knows how to remedy/cover up his mistakes.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Allendale Electronics
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest