|2487 forum posts|
Thank you for your informative reply. I think that the process of downsizing would be of interest to most forum members sooner or later; it affects them primarily, but also those others who have to sort things out later on.
I suppose that the ideal downsize lathe would, amongst other things, have a relatively large spindle bore and small footprint.
I obviously misinterpreted the book title and am grateful for the clarification.
I wish you well for the future.
|Graham Meek||25/01/2022 11:32:40|
|461 forum posts|
I have for a number of years had an Emco Compact 5. This will be the mainstay of the workshop along with a Proxxon mill, when the table turns up. If the sale of the Maximat Super 11 and the FB2 generate enough funds I might add the larger Proxxon lathe.
I have also been given a well worn Unimat 3 which has had a full restoration and can be found elsewhere on the Forum. (I still have to finish this electrically).
Recently I have been working on a design for a screwcutting clutch for the C5. Once you have had this facility it is hard to let go. This is now ready for manufacture, but it will have to wait for a short while.
A few further notes on how I go about grinding in the lathe might be handy for those wanting more info.
A rectangular tobacco tin partially filled with water is place under the grinding wheel. This is kept in place with an Eclipse Pot Magnet, placed inside the tin.
When dressing the wheel the grit goes into the tin, as well as the debris from grinding. Dressing the wheel should not take more than 0.05 to 0.1 mm to clean up the wheel, 0.002 to 0.004" ref. While grinding I present a cotton pad to the rear of the work. It is made in the same fashion as a French Polishers Rubber. This is soaked in water but not dripping in water. The action of this pad is to trap particles of grit or metal debris which would get imbedded in the wheel and ruin the work. Plus the mass of the pad allows a certain amount of cooling to take place.
The spindle is run in reverse for external grinding and forwards for internal grinding.
When doing internal grinding, like the new ER Spindle for the Proxxon mill, (listed elsewhere & in my album). I usually squirt a drop of water into the hole, but not a lot. This keeps the wheel free of debris and cools the work. Again any debris drips into the tobacco tin.
A toolpost grinder is on the list of items to make for the C5.
Edited By Graham Meek on 25/01/2022 11:33:39
|2487 forum posts|
Thanks for the grinding information which reminded me that there are some helpful photos of this in the book.
|Andrew Crow||28/01/2022 19:25:36|
|5 forum posts|
Many thanks to everyone for the information to my query, lots of useful points which I will try to incorporate. However, one further question has cropped up concerning a disengagement arrangement. I am assuming that this involves using something similar to the existing Myford tumbler arrangement. I would like to incorporate this as it's useful to disengage when using the leadscrew handwheel for milling.
Any information would be gratefully received.
|3549 forum posts|
Yes the disengagement does use the Myford Tumbler lower selection holes.
This shot shows the experimental setup used to determine the angles etc. The main block is modified to allow rotation (bottom right). Many more in my Album if you want see them.
Work was done using my second S7. Both S7s have full DRO and are generally unworn status.
PM me if you need further info.
|Andrew Crow||29/01/2022 10:43:50|
|5 forum posts|
Hello Ken, many thanks for your reply, I think I have the grasped the concept, I assume that this device also eliminates anti-rotation pin. I have an old selector handle from an ML7 which I will try to incorporate into the design if it doesn't involve too much carving of the gear cover.
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