|459 forum posts|
I have just been reading the account of etching the nameplates for a loco in the latest M.E. It brought to mind a couple of tips that I was given by the staff of a firm who did this sort of thing professionally for the electronics and printing industry. I was actually getting some photo resist from them, and while there, I was told that if using ferric chloride (they no longer did), if the action seemed a bit slow, don't add more crystals. Instead, dilute it a bit more with airated water. Oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction and it should speed things up. They actually applied the etchant via a foam pad through which they bubbled air, and the bubbles burst onto the work. Another tip, was to fix the work to something which allows the work to be held in the etchant face down to allow the debris to fall away, and rock it gently at the same time. I followed their advice and made two very satisfactory plates for a Robey steam tractor that I was building, (since disposed of). I hope this may be of help to someone.
|mick H||09/04/2019 08:13:35|
|718 forum posts|
Oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction and it should speed things up.
Adding Hydrogen Peroxide from the chemist will provide the necessary extra oxygen and it works well.
|Russell Eberhardt||09/04/2019 15:03:48|
2573 forum posts
Heating it a little helps. I have an idea to place a tray of etchant on the heated 3D printer bed and program the printer to an appropriate temperature and to give a gentle back and forward movement to agitate. Some experimentation to come.
|Massimo Dalmonte||09/04/2019 17:45:44|
|21 forum posts|
as others do, I etch pcb boards putting them vertically in a tall and narrow Tupperware container, along with an aquarium heather and a small flexible PVC tube (drilled with a few 1mm holes) coming from an aquarium pump on the bottom, works well.
Edited By Massimo Dalmonte on 09/04/2019 17:49:58
|Neil Wyatt||10/04/2019 23:36:05|
17692 forum posts
I was going to mention aerated PCB etch tanks but this would work just as well.
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