|Peter Spink||22/02/2019 20:01:56|
56 forum posts
Fed up with twiddling handle so have fancied one of these for some time:
Any disadvantages e.g. lack of self eject?
Possibility of mounting some sort of depth indicator?
|203 forum posts|
Peter, my ML7 has the Cowells rack-feed tailstock (already fitted when bought in 1973) and find it very useful. When drilling from tailstock it is easy to take 'pecks' and pull back to clear chips without twiddling handwheel and force applied is better sensed than with a wheel and possibly reduces drill breakages. With benefit of having used it, if starting from scratch today would (gulp - how much) still feel it was well worthwhile. From pics I've seen believe CornishJack/Bill has the same unit. Can't see if the Myford unit has graduated collar, mine has a resettable collar to show advance of quill in 1/8in increments. When ejecting 2MT inserts, just lock tailstock and quill and use a length of 1/4ins rod with a ball on the end and so far have not needed to resort to a hammer.
3618 forum posts
There was a thread on here a while back about making your own lever-operated version that provides a similar result for a lot less money, if budget is an issue. Geoff Walker did an article about one in MEW a couple of years back with full drawings etc.
Edited By Hopper on 22/02/2019 23:35:18
|Ian Parkin||23/02/2019 07:11:21|
614 forum posts
|131 forum posts|
I've had one for a few years now (bought from the 'old' Myford) and prefer it to the handwheel. Mine has a friction collar graduated in MM and sliding stop at the rear with a locking screw. It's a bit of a pain having to use a knocking bar to eject tooling, especially as I'm short of room to the right of the lathe, but I've been meaning to make up a combined drawbar/ejector to get over this (the bits for this are sitting on my bench, have been for four years )
Edited By HasBean on 23/02/2019 10:28:26
|237 forum posts|
Having worked extensively with self-ejecting tailstocks, I regard them as a fiddly nuisance. My home lathe has a lever-operated tailstock, and a 'bopper' of mild steel rod with a lump at the end to give more mass, and stop it sliding right through. It's so much easier and quicker to use when changing tooling.
|Nick Clarke 3||23/02/2019 14:17:20|
253 forum posts
Plus one for non self ejecting tailstocks. they can eject at the most inconveniently with a single moment's inattention and the next time you can't get the *******ing tool out no matter how hard it is wound back in.
Worst thing for me is using lathes at home and in the club workshop which are all different, and if the ejector has moved a bit when you are just trying to get the last bit of a hole cleared by pulling the drill out - the scale on the tailstock spindle says it is ok, but no it isn't!
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 23/02/2019 14:19:29
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 23/02/2019 14:20:53
|Peter Spink||23/02/2019 16:02:28|
56 forum posts
Thanks chaps for all your replies, my mind is made up and I have a birthday coming up!
My tailstock taper is worn (probably because of self ejecting at the wrong moment), so was due for attention.
Will need to break out the grey paint though 😄
|martin perman||23/02/2019 16:50:50|
1575 forum posts
Silly question gentlemen,
Apart from replacing a thread with a rack you still have to twiddle a wheel to move it and surely a thread is a lot more accurate than a rack.
|Cornish Jack||23/02/2019 18:03:14|
|887 forum posts|
Meunier is quite correct - I do have one (Cowells) fitted to my ML7. Excellent as compared to the handwheel and bought it to replace a basic 'home-brew', made because I was fed-up with the original.
|Michael Gilligan||23/02/2019 18:13:08|
13108 forum posts
But [assuming that you are using it as such] it's effectively a pillar drill lain on its back ... and you don't see many of those with a handwheel and screw thread.
Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2019 18:23:21
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