By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale Jan 24th

Myford Change Wheels

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Chris Trice31/01/2019 18:56:01
1362 forum posts
9 photos

I'd like to cut some change wheels for the ol' Super 7 but I was curious what the collective wisdom was about what material to use. I believe genuine Myford ones are iron but can I get away with Meehanite processed iron bar or do I need a harder grade?

Andy Carruthers31/01/2019 20:32:12
274 forum posts
23 photos

Same question for my WM180 - I'm sure I read aluminium change wheels are fine - cany anyone confirm please?

Nigel Bennett31/01/2019 20:51:58
337 forum posts
11 photos

I've got some nylon ones off eBay for my Boxford 280; chap makes them for all sorts of lathes. Not had any problem. Change wheels aren't heavily loaded, so they're OK - like the OEM Myford Tufnol tumbler gears.

Roderick Jenkins31/01/2019 21:02:40
1855 forum posts
471 photos

Pretty much anything will be probably outlast us but I chose FC steel for these " Myford" gears ( actually for the GHT bending rolls). They cut pretty easily with 2 passes of an RGD cutter.

rolls gears.jpg


Chris Trice31/01/2019 21:30:25
1362 forum posts
9 photos

Nice work there Rod. OK, I'm sold. FC steel is the easiest option and should do what I want.

Andy Carruthers31/01/2019 21:43:30
274 forum posts
23 photos

Lovely job Rod - only 2 passes?

I wonder how my chinesium cutters will do...

Chris Trice31/01/2019 21:55:53
1362 forum posts
9 photos

I was thinking that. 2 passes? I think I'm heading to the RDG website.

Hopper31/01/2019 22:06:10
4402 forum posts
92 photos
Steel gears may "ring" and run a bit noisier than cast iron, as can be heard on some Chinese lathes with steel gears.
Andrew Johnston31/01/2019 22:26:52
5408 forum posts
627 photos
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 31/01/2019 21:02:40:

They cut pretty easily with 2 passes of an RGD cutter

Two passes? That's pussyfooting Rod! smile

When I started gear cutting I used a roughing and finish pass, but quickly realised it was a waste of time. It just wears the cutter. Use one pass and be done with it. Like this 6DP helical gear:


And it is an RDG cutter.


Clive Hartland31/01/2019 22:34:38
2556 forum posts
40 photos

Alu. wheels will also make noise. But of course nobody will run gear wheels fast enough to make them noisy ?


PS. I had an Opel Kapitan one time and the large timing gear was made of fibre which disintigrated. The replacement gear was aluminium and I could hear it when the engine was running.

Hopper31/01/2019 23:04:18
4402 forum posts
92 photos

Seems like Delrin (nylon-like plastic) has been a popular choice for change gear material in the past. Sure there have been threads on it before.

ega31/01/2019 23:50:19
1630 forum posts
137 photos
Posted by Clive Hartland on 31/01/2019 22:34:38:
... I had an Opel Kapitan one time ...

An uncle of mine had one of these some many years ago, two features of which I remember: the speedo was a horizontal ribbon which changed colour to reflect the speed limits and when you opened the driver's door a small spotlight illuminated the ignition, both useful in their own way.

Today's cars are keyless and tomorrow, no doubt, compliance with speed limits will be automatic.

Chris Trice31/01/2019 23:56:44
1362 forum posts
9 photos

Now that's showing off Andrew. Us mere mortals are more timid.

I think I'm going to machine a couple, one in steel and one in iron and try them out.

Andy Carruthers01/02/2019 08:47:39
274 forum posts
23 photos

Just read this in Gears and Gear Cutting - Ivan Law, p66

"Always try to cut to the correct depth with one cut; nibbling away with a succession of small cuts is not recommended."

I guess that answers the question for me, but I will not be attempting steel or iron with my first attempt - confidence is key!

Brian Wood01/02/2019 08:59:57
2146 forum posts
37 photos


All but the smaller Myford change wheels, from say 30T and less, are all usually supplied in cast iron. I have found that continuously cast material is excellent. The smaller sizes are made in steel to handle the tooth loading.

Andrew is quite right and is not boasting, gears are cut in one pass. The cutters begin to lose their edge when not worked as intended and only need more frequent sharpening as a result.



Edited By Brian Wood on 01/02/2019 09:01:08

Roderick Jenkins01/02/2019 10:41:51
1855 forum posts
471 photos


I accept the collective wisdom of the desirability of cutting the teeth in one pass but can somebody please explain to me the mechanism of more than one pass blunting the cutter?

In my case a combination of the power of my mill motor and the slowest speed of my auto table traverse, not to mention the noise from the back gear, led me to be more comfortable with 2 passes and the cutter (which I assume is Chinesium) still seems to be sharp.



Chris Trice01/02/2019 11:03:26
1362 forum posts
9 photos

Logic suggests that a tool that has x number of hours life span will take twice as long doing two passes as one achieving the same result in one pass. I think the description should read that it blunts the tool more prematurely than it needs to rather than the suggestion it blunts the tool beyond usability.

Chris Trice01/02/2019 11:09:05
1362 forum posts
9 photos

.... and thanks for the info Brian.

Howard Lewis01/02/2019 17:54:31
3146 forum posts
2 photos

At the risk of being accused of boasting, I followed Ivan Laws advice and cut the gears with one pass, but with a gentle feed in terms of feed per tooth.

Most of us are unlikely to wear out a cutter with the number of times that we use it. If we were, it would probably be worth spending the money on an Industrial quality cutter for Industrial use.

Myford gears, or all the ones that I have seen are cast iron. I have made up a couple of compound gears by cutting them in steel and sticking them together with an anaerobic.

As pointed out elsewhere, be aware that Myford gears although 20DP are 14.5 degrees pressure angle, not 20.


SillyOldDuffer01/02/2019 18:54:26
5622 forum posts
1157 photos
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 01/02/2019 10:41:51:


I accept the collective wisdom of the desirability of cutting the teeth in one pass but can somebody please explain to me the mechanism of more than one pass blunting the cutter?


If the tool is applied to cut in one pass, the whole cutting edge is applied to the work once only. Conversely, when the tool is applied in steps, the wear concentrates on the sharp end of the cutter. It's because, when nibbling, the sharp end does most of the work and goes blunt while the other end of the tool's edge is barely used at all.

Provided the machine has enough grunt and the tool can take the strain, using the maximum amount of edge possible per cut will extend the life of the tool. This is important in industry, but even something the size of Bridgeport has limits, which is why hefty horizontal mills are popular.

In practice, because my hobby mill flexes and the motor complains when pushed hard, I usually take more passes to remove metal than is ideal. Compared with the risk of damaging the machine or getting a poor finish the extra wear on the end of the cutters doesn't worry me much.

Rubbing tools with very light cuts is to be avoided at all costs. As well as concentrating the wear, rubbing rather than cutting damages the edge rather quickly. Being over gentle with cutting tools is a good way of reducing their useful lives.


All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Support Our Partners
Allendale Electronics
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest