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Siezed Drill Chuck in a Tailstock

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JasonB11/01/2019 07:57:44
15354 forum posts
1580 photos

Can you not take the barrel out of the tailstock? Put two bars across the top of your vice and support the chuck end of the barrel on that then take a metal bar, poke it down the spindle and hit with a big hammer.

You will have better luck heating if it is not in the casting

Wedges will more likely part chuck from taper rather than taper from barrel.

Nicholas Farr11/01/2019 09:45:45
1839 forum posts
914 photos

Hi Jason, I believe he has the barrel out of the body **LINK** and has got the chuck out of it now and is now looking for help to drill a hole through the barrel for future removal of chucks etc.

Regards Nick.

JasonB11/01/2019 09:54:30
15354 forum posts
1580 photos

Nick, this was the last comment from Ian in that thread two days before he started this one

"So tailstock now removed but still have the issue the stuck drill chuck I have tried heat and cold and its not budged. "

John Reese11/01/2019 09:57:10
733 forum posts

I think I would try to remove the chuck with wedges. That would probably leave the shank still stuck in the tailstock. If the tailstock is constructed like the photo in David George' s post I would remove the tailstock spindle and set it up in a press. The bar through the "knock out" hole should have a generous chamfer so you can get it out after the end gets mushroomed a bit. If that doesn't work I like the grease fitting approach except I would fill the cavity with light oil before screwing in the grease fitting. The grease pressure will expand the socket as well as pushing on the end of the taper. The light oil is more likely than grease to migrate along the stuck taper and help free it. A typical grease gun can produce around 10000 psi fluid pressure. Be careful. Using the grease gun approach could turn the shank into a projectile particularly if there is a sizeable air pocket in the barrel.

Martin Connelly11/01/2019 09:59:43
845 forum posts
95 photos

20:52 on the 10 Jan he said eureka. Job done with ball joint splitter.

Martin C

Nicholas Farr11/01/2019 10:08:17
1839 forum posts
914 photos
Posted by Ian Usmar on 10/01/2019 20:52:41:

Eureka1 tap with the ball joint splitter and it came apart BUT yes there always is the depth of the hole is only 2 1/2 inches deep so need to drill right through. Anyone near Chatham able to assist me ??

Regards Nick.

David George 111/01/2019 21:12:00
787 forum posts
282 photos

Hi Ian If you strip the spindle in the headstock there us a mod to help with stability and finish by fitting a secondary thrust bearing. It is a flat needle roller bearing with two hardened thrust washers they fit between the back of the chuck location diamiter and the bronze bush. There is a space perfect to take it with no machining needed. You can get it from Simply Bearings part no NTA-1625-TRA-1625 two washers and flat needle roller thrust bearing.


Howard Lewis12/01/2019 16:54:05
1931 forum posts
2 photos

Hi Ian

Any chance that you could reassemble the Tailstock, and then mount a long series drill in the chuck, and drill through the barrel?

Once you have a pilot hole through, it could be gradually enlarged to just less than the smaller diameter of the MT taper, hopefully now by drilling from the back end.

Once that is done, you have a means of entering a drift to knock drill chucks etc out of the barrel.


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