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The Workshop Progress Thread 2019

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Richard S214/12/2019 18:59:46
181 forum posts
110 photos

Although I'm making a steel framed drawbar for the 1" scale Water Cart, I deviated to make wooden shafts as well.

Happy with the first attempt at steam bending hardwood, so have been producing the ironwork for them. Even managed to obtain scale double link curb chain.-



martin perman14/12/2019 19:38:02
1859 forum posts
78 photos
Posted by JasonB on 14/12/2019 17:06:27:

Jim, you engine is coming along nicely. Good things come to those who wait take their time

between making swarf I have had a bit more of a play with the RMC and it is starting to run for longer and stop when I want it too. Sorry for holding the camera in portrait mode though it does suit the upright shape of the engine.

Also did some of the column for the vertical oscillator.


A lovely looking and running engine, it has the sound of an engine that could improve with a light load, I hear them often on the rally field, particularly Petter two strokes.

Martin P

Neil Wyatt14/12/2019 20:56:16
18140 forum posts
713 photos
77 articles
Posted by Richard S2 on 14/12/2019 18:59:46:

Although I'm making a steel framed drawbar for the 1" scale Water Cart, I deviated to make wooden shafts as well.

Happy with the first attempt at steam bending hardwood, so have been producing the ironwork for them. Even managed to obtain scale double link curb chain.-



That's nice!

JasonB15/12/2019 16:16:43
18650 forum posts
2049 photos
1 articles

Bit more done on the Vertical oscillator, the two rectangular block will be shaped on the CNC over the Xmas hols. The base wa smachined from a 100mm dia x 10mm waterjet cut disc I have had hanging around for a while, nasty CR4 or S275 which was not that enjoyable to machine.devil

Gray15/12/2019 17:36:37
1037 forum posts
13 photos

I have wanted a four facet grinding jig for my Scheppach Wetstone grinder but couldn't justify nearly 200 beer tokens for a genuine Tormek jig.

Raided the scrap box and found some 10mm ally plate left over from a commission job with these hiding inside.

4 facet jig-1.jpg

and assembled they look like this

4 facet-2.jpg

These form the fixed base and cross slide of the jig. I need to find some slippery material in a square bar form to make bearing surfaces so I don't have metal to metal contact which will wear over time. Now have to make the top plate which rotates to set the grind point angle and adjust depth of cut and a drill holder, haven't yet decided on the format for that but an ER collet block or 5C are options as I have a good set of both imperial and metric of both types.

Iain Downs17/12/2019 21:57:43
678 forum posts
612 photos

Workshop progress indeed! This last few days has been spent in re-arranging my shed so that a somewhat (vastly) larger mill can fit into it. The Mill will arrive on Friday so I've made sure to have it ready.

The only real space was to move my Lathe stand onto the opposite wall and put the mill in the larger gap where the lathe was.

The new lathe position

lathe stand.jpg

I'm going to make some little plastic doors for the bottom shelf to sop the swarf getting on the various chucks. Probably not soon though as my workshop building gland is exhausted.

This is the mill table.

mill stand.jpg

The Mill (VM32L) weights 240kG so I'm hoping this is sturdy enough! That's two thicknesses of 18mm ply with a (roughly) 2x4 support at the back and a strip of 50mm x 4mm steel screwed and glued to the front to stop it bowing.

Friday will tell.

I shall publish photos of the machine in place....


Bill Davies 218/12/2019 00:39:18
197 forum posts
11 photos

Hi, Iain.

I read what you say about stiffening the top, but I feel a little anxious about sideways deflections under the weight of the mill. It's hard to judge size in a photo, but I think you need something across the front, at least a well-attached rail.

It appears that you have a wide piece across the back (the dark piece of wood), providing some stiffening in the left-right plane. I would suggest a 4x2 sunk into the front legs. Do others agree?


Pero18/12/2019 01:32:02
114 forum posts

Hi Iain

From experience, I admit to being a nervous Nellie when it comes to wooden benches ( and I do have several which I am very happy with ) and I take a number of precautions with their construction. These relate primarily to the fact that wood expands and contracts with the seasons ( due to humidity ) causing joints to open up and become subject to movement over time.

There is also the problem of sagging over time due to weight loading. I don't think your current design will stop the front from sagging over time, even with the metal strip.

To counter these potential problems I would sheet both ends, or at the very least put in a diagonal brace. I would also put in a wide board at the top front - 6" x 1" minimum ( or alternatively an additional, center, leg ) and also a brace at the front bottom to prevent the legs splaying.

These do interfere with under bench storage but I think the top support as a minimum will be required. The bottom rail could possibly be incorporated as part of built in storage at a latter date if needed ( occasional check measuring will show if this is so ).

Painting or varnishing all surfaces, both externally and internally, which is a pain, will also help to stabilize the timber and preserve it. I did mention I was into overkill didn't I?

My Myford and a heavy weight drill press are both on wooden benches ( both now over 40 years old  and both are better than new ( I do occasional upgrades! ). However I have noticed that the low shelf, comprised of 19 mm tongue and groove hardwood boards, in my lathe bench have started to sag ( mostly under their own weight - well perhaps with one or two chucks and a few other light accessories! ) and will require some additional support in the near future. As i mentioned occasional maintenance may be required.

Best of luck with the new mill - just in time for Christmas.


Pero18/12/2019 05:03:57
114 forum posts

Damn! Survived 81 posts without an emoji but it finally got me. Not quite sure what was there before that grinning idiot stepped in - please ignore.


geoff walker 118/12/2019 14:22:58
418 forum posts
160 photos

Over the last couple of months, while Jason has completed a couple of engines, I have made some snail paced progress on Muncaster's Double Oscillator.

A picture of the parts to date:

family shot 1.jpg

A very loose assembly:

family shot 3.jpg

family shot 4.jpg

Still plenty to do but I can now see an engine in there.


Hi Jim,

Just browsing through some old posts and spotted this one.

Looking good Jim, nice machining job on the casting.

Main bearings are a big improvement. I see you have made them like the ones on Jason's entablature engine, much better especially with the studs in the main frames. Will make assembly much easier.

I know you had the frames laser cut. Could I ask are they cut to the exact same sizes as on the drawings I sent you.

I have had another person interested in the engine and he may wish to have the frames laser cut. I assume the company who did them will have the drawings on file

Look forward to seeing the engine complete


Jim Nic18/12/2019 16:32:20
262 forum posts
162 photos

Hi Geoff

You may recall you posted a method for machining the casting for me but when I came to follow it I found my lathe face plate wasn't flexible enough (too few slots) to use and also my angle plate was too big and inflexible. So I had to adapt your method a bit and ended up doing one end and the bore in the 4 jaw chuck first and then superglueing the casting on a mandrel to do some of the rest.

cylinder 2.jpg

cylinder 7.jpg

cylinder 8.jpg

cylinder 9.jpg

It was a lovely casting, no hard spots at all and plenty of material to play with when setting up so thanks for that.

For the main bearings I used a method familiar to me that I've used a few times before with little reference to Muncaster's design.

The frames were cut by Model Engineers Laser exactly to your drawing. I don't do CAD myself so I sent him a copy of your paper drawing which he then drew in a programme his cutter could use. Hopefully he still has the file. His service was excellent and his price for the frames in steel was very reasonable, highly recommended.


Meunier18/12/2019 19:53:52
343 forum posts
5 photos
Posted by Pero on 18/12/2019 05:03:57:

Damn! Survived 81 posts without an emoji but it finally got me. Not quite sure what was there before that grinning idiot stepped in - please ignore.


Pero, what was there before was the 'close bracket' symbol. To avoid your grinning idiot it is necessary to put a space between the d of old and the 'close bracket' as is (....old )

Nick Clarke 318/12/2019 20:30:01
855 forum posts
28 photos
Posted by Meunier on 18/12/2019 19:53:52:
Posted by Pero on 18/12/2019 05:03:57:

Damn! Survived 81 posts without an emoji but it finally got me. Not quite sure what was there before that grinning idiot stepped in - please ignore.


Pero, what was there before was the 'close bracket' symbol. To avoid your grinning idiot it is necessary to put a space between the d of old and the 'close bracket' as is (....old )

If only it was as easy to get rid of real grinning idiots …………. !

Maurice Taylor18/12/2019 21:29:16
119 forum posts
17 photos

Hi Iain, I think you need diagonal struts at each end and front and back to stop it collapsing side ways .250Kg is a lot of weight to test it with.Remember if it starts to move you won’t be able to stop it ,please think about it,your machine could wrecked or even worse you could be injured. Sorry I don’t like criticising other people’s work, but from your photo I didn’t think it looked strong enough.

not done it yet18/12/2019 22:37:45
4893 forum posts
20 photos

According to the blurb, it only appears to be a couple hundred kilos.

But, that said, add a large vise, rotary talble, indexexer, etc, the a heavy work-piece and start hammering away with vibration at full head extension and things can collapse/fall over quite rapidly if/when things start to move... That span,bfor just legs at the ends, looks ominously wide to me...

Sturdy, perhaps to store 250kg quite easily - perhaps even double that (spread over), but not for a heavy working machine.

Iain Downs19/12/2019 20:47:42
678 forum posts
612 photos

Thanks for all the input on the table.

I'm not overly concerned about the back (which has a 4x2 brace at the top and a large piece of ply near the bottom. nor the sides which have the 4x2 at the top and part way down. The table top is securely screwed to the braces and legs and I don't think that's going to move.

I'm a little concerned about the front. I consider it possible that the legs could splay (though there is a 4 inch angle plate at the top holding them together). However, I do need the space. I've a 60cm high chest which needs to go in there + a smaller set of plastic drawers.

I'm not particularly concerned about the sagging. I will measure deflection when the mill is put in place and there's a few things I can do.

Firstly, I've some 30mm angle which I can use to brace the centre and the front. I may just do that anyway.

Secondly, I've a piece of 4x4 which I can put at the front but at the risk of not being able to get my chest in.

Thirdly, I could double up on the 50 mm bar at the front..

I@m thinking of two options for splaying. One is to but some threaded rod across the bottom of the legs. 10 or 12mm. That would put them under tension and I could put it low enough (2.5 inches above the bottom) that the drawers would still be accessible.

That means buying some rod - probalby in quantities and joining some 1 metre pieces. Which should work OK. Big washers on each leg!

The alternative is that I've got some 30mm angle, or indeed more of the 50 x 4 which I could put across the bottom.

The rod option would provide a better balance, so that might well be what I do. And if need be I can take it out to get the drawers in and put it back before I start milling!



Iain Downs20/12/2019 18:38:28
678 forum posts
612 photos

It's here!

At last the new Mill has arrived. I'd planned to have a little travelogue of pictures, but the idea got lost in the excitement.

The most peculiar thing is that the arrival and installation went remarkably to plan. I don't expect that to happen to me!

It started a bit off key - on the way out to the Post Office, I saw a van at the end of the road and thought. 'hmmm'. And waited to see. It was my van - the chap had forgotten to call!

The fears I had of getting the crate down the slope to the back of the house were unfounded. Mr Van Man had a powered pallet truck with brakes and it went smooth as silk. I did, however have to wait for my husky young assistant to arrive to help (1/3rd my age and probably 3 times my strength! - also doing Aeronautical Engineering at Manchester, so skills as well as muscles!).

The first photo I took was this - the box and partly assembled hoist.

mill arrival - the box.jpg

It was, of course dark by the time the delivery arrived.

The first step was to hoist it out of the pallet and put it on my custom built slideway into the shed.

mill arrival - into the shed.jpg

Then what I knew would be the nasty part. Getting the engine hoist over the mill and into the shed. A bit of grunting and it was there (in 4 pieces, mind you - let's not get too ambitious).

The hoist it to bring it further into the shed (with my beautiful assistant in rear view)

mill arrival - preparing to hoist.jpg

As you can probably see, non of these canvas slings for me - instead 3 turns of some climbing rope. If it can handle a 100 kilo block dropping 30 metres I reckon three turns would do! And it did, though the stretchiness was not ideal.

Bring the hoist round the other side push things around a bit and plop! there's The mill in place.

mill arrival - in place.jpg

I'd planned on starting small, with a 10mm mill, but for some reason the R8 collet wasn't engaging right, so I jumped directly to the 63mm face mill that you can see in the picture.

mill arrival - the first cut.jpg

The first cut was an absolute delight. No straining at 600 rpm, smooth as silk and a near mirror finish!

Of course, there's still stuff to do. There's a lot of bits to clean, a packing case to dispose of (I suspect I will recycle the plywood as shelf supports). My vice, which was nearly too big for the CMD10 is nearly too small for this one.

But that's for tomorrow.

I LOVE it!



Edited By Iain Downs on 20/12/2019 18:39:59

JasonB22/12/2019 17:34:56
18650 forum posts
2049 photos
1 articles

The RMC Type-B is starting to get closer to where I want it to be, a few E-mails from Nick Rowland the designer gave me some pointers of what to look for and it is getting there. First part of the video shows it running with the governor free to move so it runs in hit & miss mode, second video has the governor locked so throttle controlled by a mix of advance/retard and carb setting. I also got the spark plugs I made working for the second video which have improved the speed as the spark is now within the cylinder rather than down the plug hole as I had been using a standard length Rimfire plug previously which was a bit on the short side.

Also decided that the best thing to do with loco cylinder castings is to chop them up and make something useful from the metal.

JasonB31/12/2019 16:28:42
18650 forum posts
2049 photos
1 articles

Just time to squeeze one more engine in before the end of the yearsmiley

Managed to get to a stage where i could try the Preston's Oscillator with a whiff of air and it took off straight away, should be better once I get a piston ring in it, gland packing and maybe some gaskets but seems o tick over quite nicely and I did not even have to get the micrometer out once on this onedevil

Ian McVickers31/12/2019 18:26:37
188 forum posts
89 photos

Last job for me this year was to fit the dro to my lathe. Bought the M-DRO kit for the Bantam. This should have been done earlier but I`ve had the flu since just before xmas so it got put back a bit but its all fitted now.

DRO slides

m-dro panel 1.jpg

Decided to get the first one of the wheels for my belt linisher build done before calling it a night.

wheel 1.jpg

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