|219 forum posts|
Sneak it back into her shed when she is not looking
|Brian H||09/07/2019 19:55:29|
1637 forum posts
The danger is that you will dispose of items and then a week later realise that you shouldn't have got rid of it. Don't ask how I know!
929 forum posts
Modeng 2000, I tried that once before, took a while for the scars to heal. Seriously I really need to sort my workshop and find proper storage for my tools, it’s getting in dire need of “sorting”.
Brian, it happens every time I have a clear out, you have to see my workshop to realise how much I accumulate (hoard), clear outs generate volumes of stuff that I take to the recycling facility.
|Nigel Graham 2||09/07/2019 22:08:38|
|641 forum posts|
Too much stuff, too little room.... I know the feeling!
Toady? Oh, cracked on with making the turned parts for the Worden Tool-Grinder.
"Fine knurl" it says on some, but my clamp-type knurling-tool is too small. Never mind, on these larger diameters I prefer scalloped to knurled surfaces, though more work to produce.
One part has an inch of 4otpi thread on it. Wanting this to be good fit (well, less wobbly) on the mating part I screw-cut it. Oh what a palaver!
You'd think cutting a 40tpi Model-Engineering Standard thread on a Myford 7, would be easy to set up. In standard trim, it would be! The change-wheel chart fitted inside the cover lathe assumes a 30T driver, and my lathe has a 20T.
It took me a good hour to find a wheel combination that would both give the ratio, AND fit the frame, which must be one of the flddliest bits of model-engineering equipment I've encountered. You need three hands with fingers like a Daddy-Long-Legs' limbs to manipulate that lot in full compound mode.
I must remember to write down the eventual combination for future reference...
Anyway, all done, then for rest (after a brew!) I examined the fixed steady that came with my Harrison L5 lathe, to see if I can adapt it to fit. There is no maker's name on it, and it's very scruffy, so it's not really saleable, even if I could find a proper Harrison steady to replace it.
Next task... have a look at the Myford web-site to see if it lists a 25+30T cluster gear. It looks as if the pinion on my example can be changed, but it's so tight I am not convinced and I am not going to risk breaking it.
Incidentally, needing to know the thread depth, I had to look beyond my various model-engineering books, which seem to omit such details. I found the answer in my copy of the Newnes Complete Engineer - Data Sheets, given to me by a capstan-lathe turner at work over 30 years ago.
These sheets, in a book-type double folder, were published for professional engineering designers, machinists and fitters in 19-summat but long enough ago, to include overhead line-shaft proportions and that most up-to-date of production machines, the Ward 2A Capstan-lathe.
|geoff walker 1||12/07/2019 11:57:53|
|411 forum posts|
Today I completed my first attempt at cladding (or is it cleading) a cylinder casting.
I set the casting up on an arbor and milled a small 1mm step on the inside of both flanges. The hardwood rings which are jb welded to the waist of the cylinder were leveled to the same height in the rotary table arrangement in photo 1.
The oak strips were cut with my new slitting saw and arbor from ARC
All strips super glued in place with the 6mm brass straps secured with 8 ba screws.
Just need to apply a sealing finish to the oak. I thought perhaps briwax applied with wire wool.
|196 forum posts|
Making arbors for slitting saws seems to be topic of the month, looking at other forum posts. I need one for making some clevices for my tender, so this is what I have made. The hole through the end of the shank serves no purpose: it was pre-existing on the bar in my scrap box. I also made a 1 mm thick washer to avoid the corner radius on the cap, allowing the cutter to seat correctly.
It runs true in my ER chuck, but this is not important. The manufacturer of my slitting saw did not bother to put the hole in the centre and it runs like a single-point cutter...
|Jim Nic||12/07/2019 14:03:50|
244 forum posts
Nice bit of woodwork George.
Cladding cylinders in wood where appropriate adds a lot to a model for me.
|Grindstone Cowboy||12/07/2019 14:28:34|
|300 forum posts|
" Just need to apply a sealing finish to the oak. I thought perhaps briwax applied with wire wool. "
I'm no expert, but I know oak stains iron, so is there a danger of bits of your wire wool discolouring that very nicely done cladding? Hopefully someone with more experience of it can confirm or refute my fears.
18098 forum posts
George I would use a grey Scotchbrite pad to put on the wax as you can leave bits of wire wool in the grain which will rust or stain the oak black especially if you are going to use steam as Rb pointe dout.
|geoff walker 1||12/07/2019 15:44:43|
|411 forum posts|
Thanks for the tips gents, wire wool probably a bad idea, glad I asked..
Scotchbrite sounds good, I'll go down that route.
By the way, who's George?
|412 forum posts|
Made a titanium key ring today. Two cylinders that slide together, strong magnets in each so they pull apart, one clipped to belt and one to keys. Not for use in the workshop lol. Mick
|Jim Nic||12/07/2019 19:28:37|
244 forum posts
George?? Just between youand me, it's you Geoff.
|Nigel Graham 2||12/07/2019 21:17:11|
|641 forum posts|
Had a rest from the Worden tool-grinder parts; finished mowing the lawn ( a bit at a time over a few days while my knee is still a bit weak); started examining how to modify the fixed steady that came with the Harrison lathe, actually fit the lathe!
No maker's name on it I've no idea of its origins, but careful measuring showed it has the right centre-height and is about the right base width, if I can alter the shallow V-notch in it to fit the Vee on the lathe.
Now how to align a highly-irregular casting on the milling-machine. The only machined mounting face is that which contacts the lathe bed, so I need to align it with the V-notch and base surface so once modified the fitting will stlll be perpendicular to the lathe axis....
First job then, make some mild-steel cylindrical squares that clamp directly to the milling-machine table; one to align the V-notch, the other or an angle-plate for the flat area of the base. Then I can machine the fettled-casting surface of the normally-vertical face for bolting to an angle-box for milling the new notch.
Parted off the first of one pair of cylindrical squares, 1.35" dia as closely parallel as I could manage (about 0.001" over 1.6". It was a struggle!
I no longer have any faith in carbide parting-tool inserts - at about £5 each and not lasting 5 minutes let alone the 20 typically claimed in their manufacturers' catalogues for ploughing half an acre of anything from lead to the most exotic of un-machineable alloys. Then could just not get it right with an HSS parting-blade. Sometimes they work fine, but at other times.... There must be a secret to them I've not yet found, though their disproportionately large side overhang from the rear tool-post hardly helps.
|Nigel Graham 2||12/07/2019 21:18:40|
|641 forum posts|
Blasted silly-face symbol! Sorry, I forgot the space before the quote mark.
5214 forum posts
Just back from the EDMES club meeting. The boys have made a lot of progress with the track bed, worked out that the embankments are going to need a heck of a lot of fill material, but have reduced the gradients to 1 in 100. The steel for the actual track has arrived, some of it, and so some real track should appear soon.
|Boiler Bri||13/07/2019 12:14:33|
833 forum posts
Started to fit the new steam header and pipe it up to all the points
It looks a lot better than the 16mm square bar it replaces
|Nigel Graham 2||15/07/2019 08:15:54|
|641 forum posts|
Well, yesterday really, but never mind...
Completed modifying the unknown-make but right height fixed steady to fit the Harrison lathe.
It needed a new V-groove cutting, encroaching on both the original, shallower groove and the relief in the sole of the steady's foot.
My original idea had been to square it to the sole and machine the casting's vertical face to give me a clamping-surface on the angle-box. Then I realised I could use the set-bolts holding the fingers as adjustable spacers, with lock-nuts on them. Squared the assembly using the bench-drill's wide base (a Meddings, without separate table) and drilled a pilot hole on the marked-out new apex.
The groove-cutting went reasonably well, using an end-mill, though the side-cut portion ended up a bit lumpy and I had to dress it a bit with a file.
I found I'd cut it a fraction deeper than necessary. Now that might not have mattered in practice because I'd simply align the steady to the sloping face of the ways, but I wanted as much contact surface as possible. Tried to face-mill the sole down but after a couple of near -disasters as the set-up was not rigid enough for that, I completed the task by careful filing and a finishing rub on emery-paper with a squirt of WD-40, to gain a satisfactorily close sliding fit.
Took a while to clear the embedded graphite / WD-40 / marking-fluid mix from my hands!
I've still to make the clamping-plate, replacing the lost original.
276 forum posts
completed a simple electronic leadscrew (gearbox) using an arduino UNO, found details on web and moddified to suit my lathe. probably not going to do much thread cutting on the lathe but usefull for selecting different feed rates. can now do away with the change gears, what a pain they are (were?).
no more noise from the gears, or getting covered in grease when they needed changing - anyone want a set of change gears? (only joking!)
lots of ideas for ELS on web but most are trending towards CNC, very little for inbetweeners like me who just want something simple.
If trending to CNC why not go the whole hog?
|Derek Lane||15/07/2019 10:23:51|
323 forum posts
I know a couple of days late but I turned this yesterday to only find a couple of nails in it and as you can see the black area is what they have caused. The wood for this is Ash had it been Oak the effect would have been a lot worse as it contains a lot of tannin which reacts with metal.
To give another example if I want to turn Oak black I take wire wool and let it steep in vinegar for a while and when rubbed on the Oak will turn it instantly black, so avoid rubbing it with wire wool
As for using Oak on a nicely made scale model the grain is of the open type and can look wrong on a small scaled model, personally I would have used a closer grained wood for appearances and then stain it Oak coloured.
Edited By Derek Lane 2 on 15/07/2019 10:43:17
|Martin Kyte||15/07/2019 11:39:55|
1841 forum posts
Finished a John Wilding Scroll clock (currently ticking away beneath it's dome in the atrium at work as part of our LabArt show, and paid the final installment on the 5" GWR KING boiler.
This thread is closed.
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