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3 cyl Pip engine

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David Kenyon 228/12/2018 20:59:20
193 forum posts
144 photos


I moved the table up to the little end bearing and drilled, reamed 7mm ready to accept a 7mm bush.
Using an m6 mill I then started to form the shape of the rod p1030938 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:00:11
193 forum posts
144 photos


The top part of the rod is reduced in thickness by 1/8'' and the lower half is cut to form the angular shape. p1030941 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:01:10
193 forum posts
144 photos


Using the rotary table I make the final cut around the small end and this releases
the rod from the billet.p1030942 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:02:11
193 forum posts
144 photos


The rotary table is replaced with a milling vice and the slots for the slave rods are cut.p1030944 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:03:04
193 forum posts
144 photos


The rod is finished apart from a little cleaning up p1030945 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:04:02
193 forum posts
144 photos


Slave rods , starting with two pieces of aluminium milled to the correct thickness p1030975 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 228/12/2018 21:05:01
193 forum posts
144 photos

I mounted the pieces onto the mill table and first drilled and reamed the holes for
the big and small end.
Then form the shape of the rod p1030977 (medium).jpg

David Kenyon 229/12/2018 20:10:45
193 forum posts
144 photos


After making the second rod I made the locating pins out of silver steel , these screw into the master
rod. The bronze bushes are standard shop bought .

David Kenyon 229/12/2018 20:11:57
193 forum posts
144 photos


The big end bearing is screwed in , then the knuckle pins can be fitted and these stop the big end
from unscrewing.

David Kenyon 229/12/2018 20:14:59
193 forum posts
144 photos


Pistons, start of by turning some alloy round bar to a smooth sliding fit into the cylinder.
Then carefully put two piston ring grooves and one oil groove.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 19:55:13
193 forum posts
144 photos


Transfer to the mill and cross drill and ream for the gudgeon pin

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 19:56:30
193 forum posts
144 photos


Still on the mill I remove some material from the inside to lighten the piston

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 19:57:33
193 forum posts
144 photos


Then cut the clearance relief on the piston skirt

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 19:58:40
193 forum posts
144 photos

Back in the lathe the pistons are parted off and faced up to size.
They are then put in a jig on the mill and the valve recesses are cut into
the top of the piston.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:00:11
193 forum posts
144 photos


The gudgeon pins are made from silver steel and the bearings are shop
bought bronze bushes.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:02:23
193 forum posts
144 photos


Piston rings, these are made from cast iron, a piece of round cast is turned down to the same diameter
of the piston bore. Then it is bored out to the diameter of the piston ring grooves plus a couple of thou
for clearance.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:04:34
193 forum posts
144 photos


Then each ring is parted off the same thickness as the ring groove.
The rings are very brittle so to split the ring I placed them over the edge of a triangle
file and pressed down until they snapped.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:06:58
193 forum posts
144 photos

The rings need heat treating , to do this I made a small 'oven' out of the same cast iron.

the oven is loaded with rings which holds them open for a 'ring gap'

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:08:43
193 forum posts
144 photos


The top is fitted and the whole 'oven' is heated to cherry red and then allowed to cool.

David Kenyon 207/01/2019 20:09:49
193 forum posts
144 photos


Hopefully when the rings are removed they will stay with the gap formed and have
a little 'spring'
The rings on the bottom are heat treated , the rings above are not.

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