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Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine

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paul rayner04/05/2020 21:34:30
160 forum posts
44 photos
Hi all
I came across this site in UK for fasteners etc on my search if anyones interested
they seem to have a good range, reasonable prices & cheap p&p (to UK)
regards
Paul
paul rayner14/06/2020 16:53:14
160 forum posts
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A couple of queries for you Jason if you don't mind

I've started to machine the fly wheel and notice there is no dimension for the hub diameter. Also in the drawing the figure given is 16mm for overall hub length, is this correct? reason I ask is, in the pictures & videos it looks to be more and I was also thinking there would be rather a large gap between the bearing and the fly wheel. or am I talking rubbish?

JasonB14/06/2020 17:20:09
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If you are using one of lee's castings then hub diameter is not critical, you could leave it as cast, just skim to true it up or take a bit more off to leave a step at say 20mm dia.

Width as drawn will work OK , there is about 3mm gap between edge of hub and bearing on my GA drawings but they can touch without anything hitting. If you have not gone too far then the hub could be made 20mm wide and butt up against the bearing and the rim could be taken down to 16mm wide rather than 13mm for a bit more flywheel effect.

paul rayner14/06/2020 17:45:33
160 forum posts
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that were a quick reply!

yes it is one of Lee's castings and nice to machine tooyes

Bit late to just skim it, I'm 0.35 over 20mm now so I will stop and give it some thought after what you said and looking at it. I was going to take it down to 16mm. but bigger looks better?

regarding the length what are your thoughts on 26mm? then you would only have a tiny bit sticking out at the end and a small gap at the bearing for a bit of float.

regards

Paul

JasonB14/06/2020 18:31:53
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Take it to 26mm and see what you think when it's on the engine, always easier to take a bit more off than add it onsmiley

paul rayner14/06/2020 22:58:49
160 forum posts
44 photos

yer thats what I was thinking.

I did reply earlier on my phone but it didn't come through for some reason.

thank you

regards

Paul

paul rayner03/07/2020 09:32:01
160 forum posts
44 photos

a brace of muncasters finally finished.

20200703_090341.jpg

sorry Jason but ended up Sourcing some normal nuts from a local supplier as Polly were waiting to put an order in so had no stock. and the german firm wanted 40 Euros for the few I wanted inc postage which i thought was excessive. It's been a learning curve for me so don't look too close, I need to make another exhaust as on re assembly I broke one, and I definitely need to read how not to paint a locomotive. For any that are interested I think it has cost me around £90 to £100 to make these 2 engines that includes the fly wheels, fastners, paint, a couple of reamers I didn't have all the rest is what I already had lying around. may I take this opportunity to thank you publicly Jason and all the others with the help and advice along my journey.

regards

Paul

JasonB03/07/2020 10:16:23
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They look to have turned out well Paul, good to know you enjoyed making them.

Baz03/07/2020 10:19:28
410 forum posts

Beautiful job many congratulations, lovely wooden bases as well.

paul rayner03/07/2020 10:33:34
160 forum posts
44 photos

Jason thank you, yes I have learned loads

Baz thank you. the base below the steel is a bit of zenith kitchen worktop off cut and that is sat on a piece of mahogany that was part of an old kitchen cabinet I pulled out a while back.

regards

Paul

Ron Laden10/07/2020 07:43:10
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1974 forum posts
391 photos
Posted by JasonB on 28/11/2019 06:53:51:

I've done most from rectangular section either flat bar of sized from a larger block. I think it is the easier way for someone with limited equipment as you don't need a way to index the round stock as rotate it to put in the reamed holes, cut the slot and then mill the faces down.

I have dome larger ones by starting with round stock which is handy when you have large curving transitions which can be done with a ball turner.

Morning Jason, I am about to start the conrod, turning it from round bar. I was thinking of turning/tapering the rod with a small round nose tool and then grinding up a larger rad tool to cut an outside rad to blend in the rod to the square sides at the crosshead end if that makes sense. Do you think that would work ok.

JasonB10/07/2020 07:59:35
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You could do it that way Ron or just rough it out freehand and then blend with a file against the rotating work.

Ron Laden10/07/2020 08:05:19
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Thanks Jason, why didn't I think of that..?

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