By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Allendale Dec 6th

Mk1 Super 7 - What colours ?

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Dave Whipp27/11/2018 23:27:23
15 forum posts

Hi - Hope someone can help out here.

I am restoring / rebuilding a Super 7 recent ebay purchase. It's a MK1 with the oil dripper and sight glass, 1958 model or thereabouts going from the serial number.

I'm getting to the stage of repainting - Obviously the main colour is Myford Grey but when I purchased it a previous owner had painted the gap between the bed rails a horrendous shade of pale yellow, and had picked out the raised "Myford" and "Super 7" in the same disgusting yellow.

Is this correct or should it be red or should it all be grey ?

Also, the brackets that mount the cross slide and top slide handles, should they be grey or black ?

Cheers - Dave.

Hopper28/11/2018 07:57:34
avatar
3774 forum posts
79 photos

Don't know about your specific model, but the yellow you describe was standard trim on some models. But it's your lathe so paint it red if that's what you like. I agree with you: it looks better.

Top and cross slide brackets were usually black. Satin black looks best. Covers up casting roughness. Thread chaser dial body was also black.

Martin King 228/11/2018 08:20:02
626 forum posts
236 photos

Hi, I believe that the grey paint code is RAL 7100

Martin

3404628/11/2018 08:24:11
793 forum posts
6 photos

One just sold on ebay - initially bought new by Lotus, the racing car company.

Apparently the first thing they did was to repaint in the company colour of Lotus green with the lettering in yellow.

I thought it looked superb, others will disagree.

Bill

Mike Crossfield28/11/2018 08:30:25
193 forum posts
17 photos

The creamy yellow colour was standard for the inside of the bed and lettering, and the early Super 7s had the crossslide and topside brackets painted in the same grey as the rest of the machine. Lots of useful info and pictures at www.lathes.co.uk

Phil Boyland28/11/2018 09:41:17
avatar
47 forum posts
13 photos

When I restored my ML7 I went for deep red down the centre, which I thought looked the business. Also went for the same red on my late model green Super7 when I restored that. I'm not a fan of the yellow personally and if you plan to keep it, go for whatever you like I say.

Peter Sansom28/11/2018 10:42:26
60 forum posts
2 photos

I have a 1958 Super 7, sight glass headstock, cone clutch. The inside of the bed and lettering is a cream colour.

Dave Whipp28/11/2018 10:44:41
15 forum posts

Thanks everyone.

Yes, red it's going to be - I just thought that grey and custard yellow was such an odd combination surely the factory wouldn't have turned them out like that originally ? Maybe the paint guy was colourblind. wink

Lotus green & yellow, now that's a good combination, but dark grey and yellow - Nah.

Satin black for the slide brackets - that's good - thanks.

Dave.

Dave Whipp28/11/2018 10:47:38
15 forum posts
Posted by Peter Sansom on 28/11/2018 10:42:26:

I have a 1958 Super 7, sight glass headstock, cone clutch. The inside of the bed and lettering is a cream colour.

Actually that's more like it - Hmmmm. Might have to give this some thought before I buy the paint....

Dave.

ega28/11/2018 10:56:47
1329 forum posts
109 photos

Nottingham Myford used to turn up at shows with Sevens in a variety of non-standard colours.

When I repainted my grey 1960s Super Seven I opted for the much more tasteful green - mutton dressed up as lamb!

Peter Sansom28/11/2018 11:53:06
60 forum posts
2 photos

I have had the lathe for since 89 and it came out of an industrial environment. So I assume that it has never been painted, particularly as the grey is in a terrible state, flaking off the belt guards etc. The year of manufacture was confirmed by the then Australian agent who contacted Myford. In addition the Serial number is a about 120 higher than the S/N of where the cone clutch was introduced. Will add a picture in the morning.

daveb28/11/2018 16:15:04
610 forum posts
10 photos

In the 60s/70s Myfords got a touch of flower power and produced some lathes in interesting colours. I particularly admired the bright orange. Hippies with lathes, whatever next? Daveb.

Neil Wyatt28/11/2018 17:01:38
avatar
Moderator
16738 forum posts
689 photos
76 articles
Posted by daveb on 28/11/2018 16:15:04:

Hippies with lathes, whatever next? Daveb.

I don't know real hippies very much into make and mend, in the spirit of the Whole Earth Catalogue.

Neil

Peter Sansom29/11/2018 12:40:21
60 forum posts
2 photos

myford2.jpgThe photos show the colours. I know it needs general painting. The Super 7 on the Headstock Belt cover was also picked out in cream, but all that paint has flaked off.

myford1.jpg

larry phelan 129/11/2018 14:10:52
527 forum posts
11 photos

Dont see it makes much difference what colour a machine is as long as it works !

Should I now get my tin hat ??cheeky

3404629/11/2018 15:23:24
793 forum posts
6 photos
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 29/11/2018 14:10:52:

Dont see it makes much difference what colour a machine is as long as it works !

Should I now get my tin hat ??cheeky

I have to say, that is exactly what I have been thinking ever since this thread started.

Is your hat big enough for both of us ?

Bill

larry phelan 129/11/2018 17:52:41
527 forum posts
11 photos

Welcome to my hat Bill !

Yes,I think many of these machines are bought more to be looked than used,or perhaps the restoration is an end in itself. I suppose it,s a case of "Whatever turns you on " Would make no difference to me if the machine was black with pink dots,or yellow with green stripes.

My Chinese lathe is painted khaki and red unusual ? maybe,but it helps it to blend in well with the general state of the workshop,and when I cut a few lumps out of myself. Also helps it to keep a low profile.

My mill is painted cream,a bit "Showy " I think,but then "Live and let live" I say,if it,s happy and works,who am I to argue.

When they,re all covered in swarf,who cares what colour they are ?

Think we might need to get another tin hat,I can see the flak coming !!

Why do I always manage to stir the pot ? I never mean to [hand -on- heart ]cheeky

Dave Whipp29/11/2018 22:33:31
15 forum posts

Thanks all once again. Grey & Red it is going to be.

It's not going to be a show piece, it's only brush painted, but after having hand scraped the bed, bought a new "wide" saddle & apron, converting to metric, putting a 3 phase motor on etc etc - I thought as I will probably be spending many hours in front of it in the future it might as well be easy on the eye, which it certainly wasn't before.

The stomach churning yellow would have seriously affected the accuracy of the machined parts. laugh

Dave.

HughE29/11/2018 23:29:46
122 forum posts

Dave, I have exactly the same model. In the family since new . Grey and cream, not custard yellow. When I cleaned mine up I used plain white instead of the cream. Its a lot easier to find parts that fall into the bed with light colour. Whilst you have it apart paint the toothed gear on the spindle and mark off the teeth to help with gear cutting etc in the future. I think this was a GT idea.

Hugh

Dave Whipp01/12/2018 00:25:29
15 forum posts

Thanks Hugh - the tip about painting & marking the spindle gear sounds useful - Ta. I shall look into it.

Since I have stripped and inspected my ebay purchase I think my P.O. has assembled my S7 from a pile of various well worn S7 and ML7 parts, slapped on a coat of regular grey house paint, plus the custard yellow, and whacked it on ebay. When I stripped the paint down from all the parts, some were grey, some were green and some parts blue. Also several bolts / screws very loose, some bolts too long for their holes in the castings.

Anyway I now have the bed & saddle together in a homemade steel tray on a concrete bench and it's looking much better. Many hours of tedious graft has got the bed scraped as flat as I can get without a full size proper surface plate (I used a piece of 12mm thick plate float glass instead - not ideal but the best under the circumstances). I also bought a late wide bed saddle with virtually no wear marks to go on it, the original was well worn. Vertical bed ways jig sanded parallell to the rear untouched vertical.

Cross slide and top slide turned out to be ML7 not super 7 so I have bought S7 replacements Will scrape and check them before fitment,

Early MK1 drum clutch unit appears to be seized and as there's no new parts available I have bought a complete used MK 2 clutch assembly instead to future proof the machine.

Shows the dangers of buying unseen online, however I'm getting there one step at a time. Glad I had a previous ML3 to tinker with over the last few years.

I know I could have gone for a brand new far eastern generic lathe for what I've spent but -

Will I still be able to buy spares for it in 5 - 10 years time?

Co2 / miles / green credentials ?

No challenge or learning or personal satisfaction in it's refurbishment.

No history

No UK pride.

Dave.

Edited By Dave Whipp on 01/12/2018 00:28:40

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
TRANSWAVE Converters
Warco
cowbells
Ausee.com.au
ChesterUK
Meridienne Dec 4th 2019
Eccentric Engineering
Allendale Electronics
emcomachinetools
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest