|Andrew Tinsley||12/11/2018 20:12:37|
|899 forum posts|
My B has Rostyles, I would not touch wire wheels, I have enough trouble with most things and I could well do without wires!
I think that those who recommend 3/8" sockets are optimistic. Some of the stubborn nuts I have encountered need at least !/2" drives if not 3/4"!
138 forum posts
|not done it yet||13/11/2018 09:10:25|
|3128 forum posts|
1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets, on their own, are for boys (and girls) with little toys. Together with 1/2 and/or 3/4 drives, the smaller sockets are good where access is limited. A larger drive will work on a smaller fixing, but not so likely the other way round.
The only limit is the weight and/or volume for the larger items.
I doubt there are many fixings larger than 3/4” AF on most cars. (OK, there are 44mm,or 47mm, nuts on the halfshafts/wheel bearings of morris minors!).
I am kitted out with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1” drives. But I would not be carrying them around, in a car, all the time.
A 12 volt lightweight rattle gun might be the answer for roadside use. Ratchet rings and open enders are always useful for restricted access. As an aside, Landrover nuts and bolts required different sized spanners, so spanners need not be duplicated. Spanner kits had different sizes at each end of the spanner, so there were always two spanners with the same jaw size. Not so, with the more moden ring, with open end, combination spanners. Open enders ( of some form) are always needed for brake pipes.
For a set of spanners, for a specific car, it cannot be too difficult to colour code sockets or spanners, I would have thought? Don’t forget the lead lamp, or wind-up torch for night time repairs.
|Chris Evans 6||13/11/2018 09:22:04|
|1440 forum posts|
At 70 years old if a roadside repair can't be done with a few simple tools the AA get a call.
No excuse for overtight wheel nuts and stuck alloy wheels. Spend a couple of hours one day removing the wheels/cleaning the hub and applying a little anti seize grease. Torque up to correct poundage and the normal kit will undo the nuts.
|Mike Poole||13/11/2018 09:50:36|
2011 forum posts
For motorcycle work I prefer 1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets but cars seem to have lots of bits that get attacked by rust and need the extra grunt that can be applied with 1/2” drive or bigger. I do not own a breaker bar but as I am not as powerful as I used to be I am thinking of getting one. I dont work on cars much these days as the interest wore off long ago and I prefer to pay someone else to do it now most of the time. It’s funny how manufacturers have different solutions to things, Honda often use 2 M6 screws to fix the gearbox sprocket but Triumph use a 36mm AF nut and its tight!
Edited By Mike Poole on 13/11/2018 09:51:20
3463 forum posts
A 12 volt lightweight rattle gun might be the answer for roadside use
I have found the corded 240v Lidl gun good for wheelnuts but both my cordless Lidl ones failed the random wheelnut test
So I removed all nuts, greased and replaced tthem
Am leaving them a few weeks then testing again
I've also just got a simple torque wrench being sent in the post to test those guns, especially the cordless units, just to see what they are really capable of
Don’t forget the lead lamp, or wind-up torch for night time repairs
Have just found this little beaut at TKmax. It's basically a pocketsized worklight, uses 3xAAA and weighs almost nothing
Edited By Ady1 on 13/11/2018 10:17:19
|Andrew Tinsley||13/11/2018 10:17:36|
|899 forum posts|
In the wilds of France, you can't call out the AA. Try getting breakdown cover for a near 40 year car used for continental travel! Hence a comprehensive toolkit and loads of spares. French Garages don't use AF either.
|Ian S C||13/11/2018 10:24:32|
7421 forum posts
If a 1/2" socket won't move a nut, the angle grinder will (or a nut splitter).
Ian S C
|Russell Eberhardt||13/11/2018 10:35:30|
2463 forum posts
It's a different system in France. Most, if not all, car insurance includes roadside assistance and recovery. In the event of a breakdown you just call the insurance company and they will send out someone from the nearest approved garage. It seems to work well.
|Howard Lewis||14/11/2018 23:13:04|
|2136 forum posts|
If you buy a set of Metrinch sockets (your choice as to 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive) you can deal with BSW/BSF, A/F or Metric heads. They feel a little slack at first, but will deal with greater torques because they don't drive on the corners, but on the flats. They will slacken fixings that conventional sockets will not, even after the corners have been rounded.
I have just donated my late father's thirties 7/16 hexagon drive Britool socket set to the WaterWorks Museum. I first used it in the mid fifties. Although not used for the past thirty years, only one socket needed replacement, in the late 60s. (A much used A/f socket) .
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